tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-91753040909076245502024-03-13T06:20:06.987-07:00nina on the goStories of this Canadian girl's adventures exploring Europe & beyond...join me! Unknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger256125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-41275459536602397992020-12-31T22:43:00.010-07:002021-01-03T15:23:17.304-07:00assisi, italy...fountains, frescoes & St. Francis<div style="text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Assisi </h4></div><p>There is a place...a sacred place, tucked away into the hills of Umbria. Some would say it's a holy place. <br />It is the small chapel which St. Francis rebuilt with his own two hands. Where he wrote and prayed and figured out a path for his life, and many others.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IAMpwPV4tcg/X8XJhKuArxI/AAAAAAAAWaE/YDy4MCy4cfE_6RP2gJLWPVQAZOwOcUxIACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_0868.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IAMpwPV4tcg/X8XJhKuArxI/AAAAAAAAWaE/YDy4MCy4cfE_6RP2gJLWPVQAZOwOcUxIACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_0868.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>St. Francis was by all accounts an interesting fellow. Born wealthy, he was a playboy, loving the lavish lifestyle known at the time. What changed his life was, what impacts most of us, meeting others who influence or make an impression on us, and a shocking life experience such as an accident or illness. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--A0pJUHIBxw/X8XJhVZc3aI/AAAAAAAAWaQ/yjkzYywtG0w_1Nax5jcqCKDXcJvmZxXdwCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_0871.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;" width="480" /></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The hilltop town of Assisi<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--A0pJUHIBxw/X8XJhVZc3aI/AAAAAAAAWaQ/yjkzYywtG0w_1Nax5jcqCKDXcJvmZxXdwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_0871.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"> </a> <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">St. Francis, born in the late 1100's with the name Giovanni which his mother gave him, and soon renamed Francesco by his father, had a few influencing encounters with beggars and pilgrims which he wrote about, was then taken prisoner in 1202 while in the military, whereupon he became quite ill. In the following years he began to re-evaluate his life's meaning and purpose, which didn't suit his father one bit. There was much conflict between the two and Francesco turned his back on his father's money, and began a life of service to those in need. <br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A8OXjre0zaY/X8XJtLwjPhI/AAAAAAAAWZ8/sRzAsxQ7_n8G24n0av074ZuPKYROi-hJQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_0905.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-A8OXjre0zaY/X8XJtLwjPhI/AAAAAAAAWZ8/sRzAsxQ7_n8G24n0av074ZuPKYROi-hJQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_0905.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>He spent most of his time in and around Assisi, the incredibly charming hilltop town in central Italy. The narrow lanes are lined with geranium-filled pots hanging from windowsills and dotting doorsteps. Modern-day pilgrims flock to here to visit the Basilica di San Francesco d'Assisi where his tomb was discovered buried beneath in 1818.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cICnmpaMtU8/X8XJs6CB8II/AAAAAAAAWZ8/oi11mLvh26cICbyDFCsTdr-OHayZhpQzACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_0900.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-cICnmpaMtU8/X8XJs6CB8II/AAAAAAAAWZ8/oi11mLvh26cICbyDFCsTdr-OHayZhpQzACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_0900.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>While the basilica is impressive, and the views alone are for sure worth a visit, I was mostly interested in finding the stone chapel which St. Francis built and where he spent most of his time, and where he gathered with his followers, officially beginning the Franciscan Orders in 1209.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCz7Iwz48mg/X8XJt9xVswI/AAAAAAAAWaU/MmbvgzIt6loIovw_OioE4qF4wrZoBOFlQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_0909.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-uCz7Iwz48mg/X8XJt9xVswI/AAAAAAAAWaU/MmbvgzIt6loIovw_OioE4qF4wrZoBOFlQCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_0909.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><p>It took a little while. Most guidebooks and signs point people to the imposing basilica atop of the town. But, the chapel lies just outside of Assisi, on what was once empty fields far (by foot) from the town. Called the Porziuncola, you will find it inside the Basilica of Saint Mary of the Angels which was built in the late 1500's enclosing the chapel, most likely to protect it and the legions of Franciscans who visit it.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16sKO47JYXA/X8XJtsH-nOI/AAAAAAAAWaQ/2Mpx1wNXM8kBI4nX_Py1w-LOP_wlhpgdwCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_0907.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-16sKO47JYXA/X8XJtsH-nOI/AAAAAAAAWaQ/2Mpx1wNXM8kBI4nX_Py1w-LOP_wlhpgdwCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_0907.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>It really is incredible inside. I'm not Catholic, but I was moved to tears being within the tiny Porziuncola's stone walls, knowing that St. Francis built these with stones he collected in Assisi, that here he heard God's direction to devote his life to the poor, and that here he wrote his famous words which have long been hanging on my wall:</p><p style="text-align: center;">"Make me a channel of your peace,<br />Where there is hatred, let me bring love</p><p style="text-align: center;">Where there is darkness, only light<br />And where there's sadness, ever joy</p><p style="text-align: center;">Grant that I may never seek<br />So much to be consoled as to console,<br />To be understood as to understand,<br />And to love."<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YVr9utCpvQs/X8XJv5DlgNI/AAAAAAAAWaU/YmYrXhz2IQ06M4YSgffxt3UME0MqgXH3wCPcBGAYYCw/s1080/IMG_0928.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1080" data-original-width="1080" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YVr9utCpvQs/X8XJv5DlgNI/AAAAAAAAWaU/YmYrXhz2IQ06M4YSgffxt3UME0MqgXH3wCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_0928.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>The Franciscan Orders follow the teachings of St. Francis, but also those of St. Clare of Assisi, who was one of St. Francis's closest friends. She wrote the first set of monastic guidelines written by a woman. She reminds me a great deal of Hildegard of Bingen...another early power frau who commanded the attention of the men of the time with her intelligence and thought...and whose writings are still revered today.<br /><br /></p><div style="text-align: left;"><h4 style="text-align: left;">Perugia</h4></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t52inSjZgQU/X_I61NqFGjI/AAAAAAAAXKA/HM002Bj-5tAbMJP_smFNXe1uZjxzV1TPQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0802.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-t52inSjZgQU/X_I61NqFGjI/AAAAAAAAXKA/HM002Bj-5tAbMJP_smFNXe1uZjxzV1TPQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/IMG_0802.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Piazza IV Novembre<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">A short drive from Assisi, about 30 minutes, is the university town of Perugia. It is the capital city of the province of Perugia and is a bustling place with lots of young people (obviously), lots of cafés and restaurants, and much interesting architecture. Walking around this hilltop city for a day, or an afternoon, will not be boring.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OE68L1PFiq8/X_I60Gq0mxI/AAAAAAAAXJ0/K9-8RTWDBaA5VlNfZ4g_kmn83rOLL26swCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0747.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-OE68L1PFiq8/X_I60Gq0mxI/AAAAAAAAXJ0/K9-8RTWDBaA5VlNfZ4g_kmn83rOLL26swCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/IMG_0747.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">One of my favourite Renaissance painters, Raphael, was mentored in Perugia, and painted some of his paintings and frescoes here, but unfortunately none of them are here anymore. Still, the atmosphere of art and culture thrives here, as if it is in the bones of these incredible buildings. There are a great many festivals which take place here and exhibitions...so much to do, so little time.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d3eUJPAmGyA/X_I60sS4dWI/AAAAAAAAXJ8/d35OSOcr6PIS-YXVxMoopPQxBYJljB8NQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0790.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d3eUJPAmGyA/X_I60sS4dWI/AAAAAAAAXJ8/d35OSOcr6PIS-YXVxMoopPQxBYJljB8NQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/IMG_0790.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palazzo dei Priori<br /></td></tr></tbody></table></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">Along with watching a wedding party descend from the Palazzo dei Priori in the centre of town for a good long while, I couldn't help but take a lot of photos, as inconspicuously as possible, of the glamourous Italians. I can't help myself in Italy. They have a style like no others...unaffected and assured, like the French, but without looking like they're trying at all. A woman I met in Milan once told me, without being the least bit arrogant about it, that they grow up dressing with style...it's in their blood...they just can't help looking this good. I kind of loved that.<br /></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-8GTnNAvkk/X_I61rz-3RI/AAAAAAAAXKE/nvY0sa6IAKwlB-jbzdqp4NNuWN5xX0oXgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0815.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j-8GTnNAvkk/X_I61rz-3RI/AAAAAAAAXKE/nvY0sa6IAKwlB-jbzdqp4NNuWN5xX0oXgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/IMG_0815.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></div><div style="text-align: left;"></div><div style="text-align: left;"> </div><div style="text-align: left;">If at all possible, and I've said this before about Venice, try staying
in any Italian town you're visiting until after dark. Experiencing the
sights and smells (oh the smells!) while walking past the osterias,
trattorias and ristorantes amidst these ancient stone buildings is
always an incredible treat. And, it goes without saying, you absolutely
need to eat...like everywhere! There's nothing better...<br /><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kw312n_tQUc/X_I62f-i_ZI/AAAAAAAAXKM/aq6ISGd17DgYdjftsuCAqpPiJGyhouyOwCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0854.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kw312n_tQUc/X_I62f-i_ZI/AAAAAAAAXKM/aq6ISGd17DgYdjftsuCAqpPiJGyhouyOwCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/IMG_0854.JPG" width="640" /></a></div> </div><div style="text-align: left;">except maybe the view!</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8NrOVtSuu1Y/X_I60NK0DiI/AAAAAAAAXJw/l1DqNErHZ8IdEM5BEvaMz21B_iiHHQ-xgCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_0739.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-8NrOVtSuu1Y/X_I60NK0DiI/AAAAAAAAXJw/l1DqNErHZ8IdEM5BEvaMz21B_iiHHQ-xgCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/IMG_0739.JPG" width="640" /></a></div></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com206081 Assisi, Province of Perugia, Italy43.0707017 12.61959661.962220571261966 -57.6929034 84.179182828738035 82.9320966tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-9716862266180981022020-09-30T12:21:00.009-07:002020-11-30T22:00:40.739-07:00berlin's enchanted ballroom...full of whimsy, widows and two wildly determined women <p>There is a magical place in the heart of Berlin...where widows once danced, and bombs fell, and whimsy ruled. It still does. This is Clärchens Ballhaus.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--InEi5gZXZA/X7ReHeMxinI/AAAAAAAAVc8/pf6LgLqnC0Mveiicq_jHQy7H14e5u6lvgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4285.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--InEi5gZXZA/X7ReHeMxinI/AAAAAAAAVc8/pf6LgLqnC0Mveiicq_jHQy7H14e5u6lvgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4285.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>A few weeks ago, on a work trip to Berlin, I took in an afternoon tour of one of my favourite places. Whenever I have the good fortune to spend a couple of days in this fascinating city, I always try to spend a Sunday afternoon at Clärchens Ballhaus, where for over a century couples of all shapes and sizes have been coming to ballroom dance.<br /></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnQEM5vRrGo/X7ReFoes8BI/AAAAAAAAVb0/WWY9YxbWyzUcTBquXEJi5k2cfqIfIQZxQCLcBGAsYHQ/s2048/IMG_4267.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SnQEM5vRrGo/X7ReFoes8BI/AAAAAAAAVb0/WWY9YxbWyzUcTBquXEJi5k2cfqIfIQZxQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h480/IMG_4267.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marion Kiesow giving her presentation in the Spiegelsaal (Hall of Mirrors)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Back in the day, 1913 to be exact, this dance hall opened up in the centre of Berlin. It was pre-war, WWI, and Berlin was well on its way to becoming a global capital of modernization, technology and culture. The streets were full of private cars puttering around. Innovation and excitement were fueling a desire to be taken seriously; a yearning to be the next London or Paris.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vuZagHGIriU/X7SVzrdVqhI/AAAAAAAAVd0/TOWN6l08rTUwF2h40bSDEOgRsBOsLmKyQCPcBGAYYCw/s1280/dancers-33395_1280.png" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1280" data-original-width="979" height="320" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vuZagHGIriU/X7SVzrdVqhI/AAAAAAAAVd0/TOWN6l08rTUwF2h40bSDEOgRsBOsLmKyQCPcBGAYYCw/s320/dancers-33395_1280.png" /></a></div><p></p><p></p><p>And, into this heady atmosphere waltzed the neighbourhood dance hall. On the heels of the Belle Epoque era of "chanson" and the provocative caberets of Paris, Berliners flocked to dance floors around the city to sashay the nights away.<br /></p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-31HZV0mvpds/X7ReC1gBQmI/AAAAAAAAVcw/r6P8teLHUzcbcaINFkOFgddbSzt0IqgkgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4213.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-31HZV0mvpds/X7ReC1gBQmI/AAAAAAAAVcw/r6P8teLHUzcbcaINFkOFgddbSzt0IqgkgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4213.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Opened in September 1913, by Fritz and Clara Bühler, Bühlers Tanzhaus quickly became known as "Clärchens", an affectionate turn on the hostess's name. Everyone was welcome to dance here. The general public in the large mainfloor ballroom, to popular tunes of the day (think Irving Berlin and Enrico Caruso), and the upper echelon of society in the upstairs Spiegelsaal (Hall of Mirrors) secretively dancing the newest craze...the Argentine Tango.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEiufmRO7rs/X7SVziG79yI/AAAAAAAAVdo/X5dreaJwilkltU0zJt-Vts2VT0FcxHYNwCLcBGAsYHQ/s1920/painted-51630_1920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1440" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WEiufmRO7rs/X7SVziG79yI/AAAAAAAAVdo/X5dreaJwilkltU0zJt-Vts2VT0FcxHYNwCLcBGAsYHQ/w480-h640/painted-51630_1920.jpg" width="480" /></a></div><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pnUhijK_Oms/X7SVziAz7kI/AAAAAAAAVd0/oSZDI5l-Qj8rH1kZck5BitOJywjwFuo9QCPcBGAYYCw/s1920/advertisement-51631_1920.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1920" data-original-width="1507" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-pnUhijK_Oms/X7SVziAz7kI/AAAAAAAAVd0/oSZDI5l-Qj8rH1kZck5BitOJywjwFuo9QCPcBGAYYCw/w502-h640/advertisement-51631_1920.jpg" width="502" /></a></div><p></p><p>The Tango had arrived in Paris in 1905, a seductive mixture of the Habanero and the Waltz, and many other South American influences. It was an extremely sexy way for the avant-garde to express themselves behind closed doors. In November 1913 Kaiser Wilhelm II had restricted his officers from dancing the tango implying that only children of prostitutes would engage in such activity.<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9d4BY0bcNVE/X7ReCj9lw1I/AAAAAAAAVc0/3cp72W7kyzQwQLkNeAI5QHGItkMJnKD9wCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4204.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9d4BY0bcNVE/X7ReCj9lw1I/AAAAAAAAVc0/3cp72W7kyzQwQLkNeAI5QHGItkMJnKD9wCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4204.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>After the war came to an end and the city began a tough recovery period, Clärchen realized that there were far too many widows, including herself, now searching for a brief respite from reality. She began to host widows balls, personally inviting women she knew to come and dance with each other, and encouraging the few men who were still in Berlin to join them. The dance floor was full again, lonely people had reasons to smile again... the evenings were a hit.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-axivmxJ0vvs/X7ReCGucVnI/AAAAAAAAVcs/2Q5a0eqcARcSnvXAyMWvrSpWlw2Fm_AbACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4206.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-axivmxJ0vvs/X7ReCGucVnI/AAAAAAAAVcs/2Q5a0eqcARcSnvXAyMWvrSpWlw2Fm_AbACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4206.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Heinrich Zille, a very well-known Berliner satirist and illustrator spent much time at Clärchens Ballhaus, after he himself became a widower in 1919. His tongue-in-cheek depictions of the popular culture at the time and his social commentary about the common folk, to which he regarded himself as belonging, made him nationally famous in the 1920's. A few of his prints hang on the walls on the lower level of Clärchens. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-anjjMB0F120/X7ReEKe1btI/AAAAAAAAVdA/_VNhGSd-EsUlhoNCJrrnKNZ-o_ofo1mUQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4254.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-anjjMB0F120/X7ReEKe1btI/AAAAAAAAVdA/_VNhGSd-EsUlhoNCJrrnKNZ-o_ofo1mUQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4254.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>The ballhaus developed a reputation for being 'ein derbes Vergnügen' (bawdy amusement), and that "no one goes home alone", with the maitre'd often warning young women, "be careful, not everyone is Prince Charming."<br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--NSCwY_kmpw/X7ReFJHAxgI/AAAAAAAAVdA/h0pN_OLIBDsmb4G2yrU-uGRr1y_2StQIQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4264.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--NSCwY_kmpw/X7ReFJHAxgI/AAAAAAAAVdA/h0pN_OLIBDsmb4G2yrU-uGRr1y_2StQIQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4264.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>In 1932, Clärchen married for the second time. She had decorated the interior to reflect a sort of Japanese oasis, with Cherry blossom wallpaper covering the lower ballroom walls, while upstairs in the Spiegelsaal much remained untouched.</p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ANSvbk_Ebc/X7ReEhXuI_I/AAAAAAAAVdE/awvk3s0SsBYiuay5mll-8iv2Zk9oLK4NACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4262.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-9ANSvbk_Ebc/X7ReEhXuI_I/AAAAAAAAVdE/awvk3s0SsBYiuay5mll-8iv2Zk9oLK4NACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_4262.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>WWII began and the ballhaus had to close. Many difficult years followed, and much of the city was destroyed. Bombs took out the entire front area of the house, but miraculously left both ballrooms basically intact. To this day the mirrors are the original ones, with only minor cracks visible from the bombings. Most of the damage they've experienced has come from the sun.</p><p></p><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kc-Lm8NiAdY/X7ReJIS1mVI/AAAAAAAAVdE/Y9B8pZJCshQY-4RIfBuK3Yfl9ovMfDUTQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4305.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Kc-Lm8NiAdY/X7ReJIS1mVI/AAAAAAAAVdE/Y9B8pZJCshQY-4RIfBuK3Yfl9ovMfDUTQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4305.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The original chandelier which fell during the bombing, now hangs as decoration<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><p></p><p>Clärchen was innovative, and the people loved her for it. The war officially ended in May 1945 and by July the dance hall's doors were open and the ballroom was full of dancing. Berliners cleared a path through the rubble where the front house had once stood, music was played and people danced.<br /></p><p>But, there was also the dark side of Berlin. The East. The Russian side. During the war, the Russians took over Clärchens using it for war planning meetings. After the war, the Stasi spies were in Clärchens watching and recording what Berliners were saying and doing. Only on the dance floor were they really free. Berliners needed the music, and they needed to dance. And Clärchen did everything she could to keep things moving. </p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TBwjie_JkcY/X7ReGieZO4I/AAAAAAAAVdA/922XwI3bIPoT3-bZUTP0yKL4afw5X__HQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4280.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TBwjie_JkcY/X7ReGieZO4I/AAAAAAAAVdA/922XwI3bIPoT3-bZUTP0yKL4afw5X__HQCPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_4280.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><p>When the Russians finally cleared out of Clärchens, she was left with all of the garbage they left behind. Horses had been living in parts of the house, materials and war remnants, along with rolls and rolls of maps were left upstairs in the Spiegelsaal. Times were extraordinarily tough for Clara, so she improvised and used all of the materials she could. She cut up the maps and had her staff use them as scrap paper to write out drink and food orders. <br /></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vk33kIyz09Y/X7ReG7yAxJI/AAAAAAAAVc4/3N9ahBM8Bmsgw-B_g7b-M6IlmHLa84r0ACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4281.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vk33kIyz09Y/X7ReG7yAxJI/AAAAAAAAVc4/3N9ahBM8Bmsgw-B_g7b-M6IlmHLa84r0ACPcBGAYYCw/w480-h640/IMG_4281.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><br />In 1948, Clärchen found out that her husband had a daughter from a previous relationship. She came to live with them and in 1967, after working alongside her 'new' parents, she officially took over the ballhaus. <br /><p>Through the decades of the cold war and the seperation between East and West, not more obvious than the imposing Berlin Wall cutting through Berlin Mitte, Clärchens survived. Berliners kept dancing, couples fell in love and got married, and over the years Clärchens Ballhaus
became known as the "Wartesaals des Glücks" (the waiting room of
happiness). Couples who met and fell in love at Clärchens are still a
thing. <br /></p><p></p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L00MAAZVHEY/X7ReI6TfIHI/AAAAAAAAVdA/dXL71i_GZp0Os5laHWeQUZX12nBce89JQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4302.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L00MAAZVHEY/X7ReI6TfIHI/AAAAAAAAVdA/dXL71i_GZp0Os5laHWeQUZX12nBce89JQCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4302.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uk9858X-dNA/X7ReIyxvX5I/AAAAAAAAVc8/14msf9lr5OEw9jpwrkx3nPE_YbfNUcK-wCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4299.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Uk9858X-dNA/X7ReIyxvX5I/AAAAAAAAVc8/14msf9lr5OEw9jpwrkx3nPE_YbfNUcK-wCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4299.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>Now, Clärchens has a large beer garden out front, the main ballroom for Sunday "tanz tees" (afternoon dancing), restaurant dining and dancing (of course), and special events, such as Oktoberfesting good times. There is also a closed-in Wintergarten (below) for private functions - a room which I immediately fell in love with.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W8o2fI8IC1c/X7ReDtgkdLI/AAAAAAAAVc8/Sfmzk-tuFs8SdAhj4GINqC-__o0khKNwgCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4238.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-W8o2fI8IC1c/X7ReDtgkdLI/AAAAAAAAVc8/Sfmzk-tuFs8SdAhj4GINqC-__o0khKNwgCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h480/IMG_4238.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p>If you find yourself in Berlin, I would highly recommend you check out Clärchens Ballhaus for an afternoon beer, an evening dance or just a tour through the magical Spiegelsaal. Walking across the creaking hardwood floors where widows, soldiers and Clärchen herself have walked before, seeing your reflection in the hundred-year-old mirror that could tell a host of stories if it could, or just watching couples gliding around the dance floor free in the music, is enchanting. I personally love being in this special place and that's why I always pop in for a visit. Maybe the next time I'll stay awhile... and dance.</p><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o7jmdLqBvUI/X7ReILJv7mI/AAAAAAAAVc0/4CiXzYTkv-gAZg060-nDiDvh04IcMjE5ACPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_4295.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-o7jmdLqBvUI/X7ReILJv7mI/AAAAAAAAVc0/4CiXzYTkv-gAZg060-nDiDvh04IcMjE5ACPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_4295.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><p></p><p>If you go:</p><p>Website for reservations and Marion Kiesow's tour info: https://claerchensball.haus/en/<br /></p>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2Auguststraße 24, 10117 Berlin, Germany52.52667 13.3967924.216436163821157 -21.75946 80.836903836178848 48.553039999999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-70825322699246055902020-07-31T14:30:00.005-07:002020-08-01T16:21:23.102-07:00inglewood...calgary's first (and coolest?) neighbourhood<div>Calgary's 9th Avenue, in the city's south-east Inglewood is <i>the</i> original main street. Located just east of the iconic island of office towers in downtown, Inglewood grew out of bustling Fort Calgary, the city's first settlement built in 1875.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIHDK7symWI/XvuiIAGFAjI/AAAAAAAATw8/kqrkbxyYMCYDl719XhSJ-zY70EVV8JcSACPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_2533.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sIHDK7symWI/XvuiIAGFAjI/AAAAAAAATw8/kqrkbxyYMCYDl719XhSJ-zY70EVV8JcSACPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_2533.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><br /></div><div>The fort and Inglewood, respectively, were established in the heart of Blackfoot territory, on what is now Treaty 7's Camp Mohkinstsis, meaning 'Where the Elbow meets the Bow' (firstnationsdrum.com).</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1iJiHEaVsE/XvuiTN1i8_I/AAAAAAAATw8/wChSurIVF4giaWctf_DAM3YNwEYXOovZACPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_E2563.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-S1iJiHEaVsE/XvuiTN1i8_I/AAAAAAAATw8/wChSurIVF4giaWctf_DAM3YNwEYXOovZACPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2563.JPG" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>On the banks of the Elbow, across from Calgary's busy downtown, you will find the oldest structure in Calgary known as the Hunt House, built in 1876 and part of the Hudson's Bay
Company (Canada's oldest company, fur trading since 1670). On the same property not far away you will also find the Métis
Cabin, a similar structure from the same decade.</div><div> </div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gx0VuGtz4_g/XyXYqk1JSOI/AAAAAAAAUvk/OB-PGQfG5DEsNzRxziTcXQp4k5kZuARKQCPcBGAYYCw/s2048/IMG_E2564.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1344" data-original-width="2048" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Gx0VuGtz4_g/XyXYqk1JSOI/AAAAAAAAUvk/OB-PGQfG5DEsNzRxziTcXQp4k5kZuARKQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2564.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div></div><div><br /></div><div>Look across the street and you will see refurbished warehouses hosting art galleries, architecture firms, hot yoga and cool stores. My favourite is Fair's Fair (for Booklovers - their slogan, not mine)...a paradise for anyone who is, well, a book lover. You will most probably get lost in this mammoth used book store.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w7Oq-NusysQ/XyXjHLUPSKI/AAAAAAAAUv4/nR0ha6_nw9ckXc18avwECUv43gbJcRIfQCLcBGAsYHQ/s1512/IMG_2715.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-w7Oq-NusysQ/XyXjHLUPSKI/AAAAAAAAUv4/nR0ha6_nw9ckXc18avwECUv43gbJcRIfQCLcBGAsYHQ/w640-h640/IMG_2715.jpg" title="Blues Can - Calgary" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>But, what most Calgarians identify Inglewood with is music. There are some now-classic venues supporting independant, home-grown and not-so-local musicians and songwriters, such as the Blues Can, Ironwood, Festival Hall and the Nash. Even though singers now (currently) need to sing in the 'aquarium' to protect patrons, the sound and vibe is still the same.<br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuvAcxamais/XyXjH_FHLwI/AAAAAAAAUwA/LP4_AQopDJkvbn35P2ne3OdeBFpOlzpLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s1512/IMG_2718.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fuvAcxamais/XyXjH_FHLwI/AAAAAAAAUwA/LP4_AQopDJkvbn35P2ne3OdeBFpOlzpLgCLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_2718.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>The Ironwood Stage & Grill moved to the old Garry Theatre, which opened as a motion picture house in 1936, becoming the Loose Moose theatre (many a time spent watching improv there in my youth!) in the late '70's, and a decade ago transforming into its current manifestation. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wAYhimpehks/XvuiF5HVSQI/AAAAAAAATxA/6iaBQgFieKomEUvheuaEsyiy6VgNAsLUwCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_2523.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-wAYhimpehks/XvuiF5HVSQI/AAAAAAAATxA/6iaBQgFieKomEUvheuaEsyiy6VgNAsLUwCPcBGAYYCw/w640-h640/IMG_2523.JPG" title="Ironwood - Calgary" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In this very walkable neighbourhood, there are many businesses which have become Calgary institutions, whose home has seemingly forever been Inglewood. One of the first (paid) events I ever planned was twenty years ago this summer, a 50th surpise party at Kane's Harley Diner. The vibe in there was perfect for a '50's-themed party, and not at all cheesy. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WxDslvmBb_0/XvuiDXpoO8I/AAAAAAAATto/D0g2lIDu2wsXqHRppTivgmRPTzA0fbTgQCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_2518.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WxDslvmBb_0/XvuiDXpoO8I/AAAAAAAATto/D0g2lIDu2wsXqHRppTivgmRPTzA0fbTgQCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_2518.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--VE4EY85cCw/XvuiEA7-H2I/AAAAAAAATts/hl0C-9CaAh4p8_m1foUA6OiPb4kMUnKvgCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_2519.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/--VE4EY85cCw/XvuiEA7-H2I/AAAAAAAATts/hl0C-9CaAh4p8_m1foUA6OiPb4kMUnKvgCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_2519.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Nowhere is the dichotomy between young and old, vintage and modern as strikingly represented as in Inglewood. The neighbourhood has, in my opinion, masterfully renewed, re-energized, and re-invigorated what was once a very run-down, neglected part of the city, by combining the historic, original flair with contemporary elements...infills neighbouring originals...<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PX0UA7Q_CeA/XvuiYbh3SHI/AAAAAAAATw8/Ba2EBYb0gS0R9RvS-yTdGfFq_DEpa25GgCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_E2573.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PX0UA7Q_CeA/XvuiYbh3SHI/AAAAAAAATw8/Ba2EBYb0gS0R9RvS-yTdGfFq_DEpa25GgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2573.JPG" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">fashionable, yet unique boutiques like Antiquaire or Espy (my new favourite) alongside...<br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WlBlDLbL8No/XvuiJ5CjLTI/AAAAAAAATuM/mntpPqggmqoPEfn07K1p56jfEbfPqhI5gCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_2580.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WlBlDLbL8No/XvuiJ5CjLTI/AAAAAAAATuM/mntpPqggmqoPEfn07K1p56jfEbfPqhI5gCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_2580.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><br /></div><div>quaint, rustic shops...where a baby lies on a blanket in the middle of the shop, the owner sells you her book of Victorian flowers which was actually just meant for decoration, and you leave with your arms overflowing (which really isn't the plan while doing research)...<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SfpY9U5FdwI/XvuiL0TXJMI/AAAAAAAATuY/JGLooksDjq41-P6YVerbtdoSeO5vEMj2wCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_2587.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SfpY9U5FdwI/XvuiL0TXJMI/AAAAAAAATuY/JGLooksDjq41-P6YVerbtdoSeO5vEMj2wCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_2587.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>and whimsical, yet utilitarian. Is there anything more iconic than Crowne Surplus? I have always loved popping in here, picking up something random for my brother like paracord (only the real stuff!). It's like a museum. It is a museum.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0UC4KkdfUNA/XvuiNbvsKlI/AAAAAAAATug/YXUpPZWWRBAPiI2ZjwDImwPRBb8CEK6zQCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_2590.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-0UC4KkdfUNA/XvuiNbvsKlI/AAAAAAAATug/YXUpPZWWRBAPiI2ZjwDImwPRBb8CEK6zQCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_2590.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DQ4a2CSwyEg/XvuiPFfKobI/AAAAAAAATww/v4aWKjm7qgg4iPWDO24EwZzitX37DBeZQCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_2592.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DQ4a2CSwyEg/XvuiPFfKobI/AAAAAAAATww/v4aWKjm7qgg4iPWDO24EwZzitX37DBeZQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_2592.JPG" /></a></div><br /></div><div>Don't forget to eat in Inglewood...or just drink. There is an incredible variety of excellent options from cafés to pubs to Mexican, Italian, drive-in, and high-end. I have a hard time choosing what I'm in the mood for when I'm in Inglewood...because I want everything here! Do I want coffee at Gravity, or a beer at the Hose & Hound, Chips & Salsa with a side of Vanilla Stoli at the Blues Can, or breakfast at Delightful? So many choices.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PnBnnOdiadQ/XvuiSdaHCaI/AAAAAAAATvI/7u4CDCjA1AoQwgHywr09QRqytuRmCuXkQCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_E2562.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PnBnnOdiadQ/XvuiSdaHCaI/AAAAAAAATvI/7u4CDCjA1AoQwgHywr09QRqytuRmCuXkQCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_E2562.JPG" title="The Deane House" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>But if you want to head to the beginning of it all (well almost, 1906), and possibly chat with a ghost, then reserve a table at The Deane House. Lying on the banks of the Elbow River, with a view of the Calgary Tower and the Saddledome, this historic building was once a part of Fort Calgary until it was rolled over the river in 1929 in a feat of engineering, to its new home.</div><div></div> <br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y_FtTb0kLgY/Xvuic3Pa21I/AAAAAAAATww/CpzacK936Hw3bodiGCJfxvB4yEixEyZcgCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_E2583.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-y_FtTb0kLgY/Xvuic3Pa21I/AAAAAAAATww/CpzacK936Hw3bodiGCJfxvB4yEixEyZcgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2583.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Craft breweries have popped up here in the past few years (haven't they everywhere), creating a new, chill vibe on a couple of Inglewood's older corners.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PLCdzYKoND8/XvuiaoQxfrI/AAAAAAAATww/LbD2agWMl9Ma4rqZeBhKB5lIUwrf11xVgCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_E2577.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-PLCdzYKoND8/XvuiaoQxfrI/AAAAAAAATww/LbD2agWMl9Ma4rqZeBhKB5lIUwrf11xVgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2577.JPG" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">And, of course, mainstays like Calgary favourites Spolumbo's Fine Foods & Deli, or the landmark Inglewood Drive-In which you pass as you head over the bridge to the zoo, or another historic dining establishment, Rouge, are yummy options for a full or near-empty wallet, and for many a different tastebud. When it's open, I can't stay away from The Swan public house. It could possibly be my favourite pub...in the whole world.<br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RHVxRTCrNqw/XvuiZzkQxyI/AAAAAAAATww/7-kMZxV7IxgGSmzgk2RINoUf-fwrcJsnwCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_E2575.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RHVxRTCrNqw/XvuiZzkQxyI/AAAAAAAATww/7-kMZxV7IxgGSmzgk2RINoUf-fwrcJsnwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2575.JPG" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>In any new city, and on many a blog post, I highly recommend taking a walk off the main street to see how the locals live, and that is no different here. Wander off of 9th Ave, in either direction, and stroll among the houses to get a feel of home here. In Inglewood the houses are still unique and interesting, sometimes eclectic, but always different from their neighbour. There is no cookie-cutter pattern here featuring some designer 'look'. The 'look' is the design of Inglewood...and it creates an atmosphere of authenticity which personally I love.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBC1nVNQ9tQ/XvuiVEVTybI/AAAAAAAATvY/XnoDRdEKzcYoof3V8ivIt7vEgAv9Ys9ggCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_E2567.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SBC1nVNQ9tQ/XvuiVEVTybI/AAAAAAAATvY/XnoDRdEKzcYoof3V8ivIt7vEgAv9Ys9ggCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_E2567.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><div><br /></div><div>The buildings and homes are as "well-rounded", shall we say, "street-wise" as its citizens, and in all honestly, it's not always pretty. You might just see a drug deal going down on one of the side streets, or a shady character or two, and oh the sirens...there are lots of sirens. This isn't the suburbs (thank God!) and it's never boring. But, it is safe, which is always important to this particular, mostly-solo, female traveller.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X1EsyLkw-qQ/XvuiXtJ9FCI/AAAAAAAATvo/kVdLrrLN8wIzQNRflv7Ho42ENA1g6UYhwCK4BGAsYHg/s3024/IMG_E2572.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X1EsyLkw-qQ/XvuiXtJ9FCI/AAAAAAAATvo/kVdLrrLN8wIzQNRflv7Ho42ENA1g6UYhwCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_E2572.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>Inglewood is nestled in the armpit of the Elbow and Bow Rivers, where they join up to flow happily ever after together (unless they flood, then it's not so happy). There is a beautiful river pathway following the Bow from far in the north, through downtown and along Inglewood's leafy edge. There are rafters, dog-walkers, stroller-pushers, Canadian Geese (many) and a bike or two. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Elh5BIm4Snc/XvuiR8Q4CiI/AAAAAAAATw8/rHPmNRMkLVoNkrTh7UtCNeUmLtX0dQDMQCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_E2561.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Elh5BIm4Snc/XvuiR8Q4CiI/AAAAAAAATw8/rHPmNRMkLVoNkrTh7UtCNeUmLtX0dQDMQCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2561.JPG" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>It's the perfect place to experience Calgary's history, modern vibe and
the doorway into the great outdoors. Start here, in Inglewood, and go forth into the wild frontier, just like they did back in the day...but use a bike instead of a horse, that's what I do.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGF0J7My3CI/XyXiztPX52I/AAAAAAAAUvw/NE0KRZdl_B4G0vK6qNVe9UTRWAC-GAYIACLcBGAsYHQ/s1512/IMG_3030.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-HGF0J7My3CI/XyXiztPX52I/AAAAAAAAUvw/NE0KRZdl_B4G0vK6qNVe9UTRWAC-GAYIACLcBGAsYHQ/s640/IMG_3030.jpg" /></a></div><div><br /> </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">If you go:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><ul style="text-align: left;"><li>take the time to eat. <br /></li><li>you can park for free for up to 2 hours practically on every street, an amazing thing in Calgary.<br /></li><li>don't miss visiting Kensington, Calgary's first suburb...also very cool, and just minutes away - follow the Bow River upstream and make a right :)</li></ul></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hpxy1bwW5M4/XvuiV816SOI/AAAAAAAATw8/kHvtzYoZN2w8Kx4q5FblrZjRvxH3gDFFwCPcBGAYYCw/s3024/IMG_E2568.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="3024" data-original-width="3024" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Hpxy1bwW5M4/XvuiV816SOI/AAAAAAAATw8/kHvtzYoZN2w8Kx4q5FblrZjRvxH3gDFFwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E2568.JPG" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Inglewood, Calgary, AB, Canada51.034201 -114.02013622.723967163821158 -149.17638599999998 79.344434836178849 -78.863886tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-13166879546496961632020-05-31T19:03:00.000-07:002020-05-31T19:05:44.221-07:00bologna, italy...a pilgrim's journey towards faith and food<div>"Bologna is a city of porticos. They are our bridges, which unite and facilitate encounter and journeying." - Archbishop Zuppi<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>As I lean against the stone wall which encircles the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, located on a hilltop just outside of Bologna's city cenre, I notice a small, elderly woman on a bench close to me, hunched over a worn leather book. I couldn't tell what book it was, but her dedicated, focused manner makes me guess it was the Bible. She was no tourist. She was a regular here...this place meant something to her.</div>
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<div><br /></div><div>This is, afterall, a site devoted to the Madonna, who not just tens of thousands of travellers a year pilgrimage to, but also locals...some weekly, some monthly, some yearly.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-auBIHNwjneg/XoKtBWXN3KI/AAAAAAAASbQ/e9ZoTDOQB4AJx44kAgJFSTzrW3qvajdpACK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0164.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-auBIHNwjneg/XoKtBWXN3KI/AAAAAAAASbQ/e9ZoTDOQB4AJx44kAgJFSTzrW3qvajdpACK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0164.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div></div><div>The way here is beautiful. One of the most serene and special I have ever had the pleasure of taking. The sanctuary is linked to the historic old town by the Portico di San Luca, one of the world's longest covered walkways, at almost four kilometres long.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qwJaUd0s9tM/XoKtA2EKvdI/AAAAAAAASbg/JMLGWfB2Gt0P5W9K3dPAamzHDvi32o-NwCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0160.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qwJaUd0s9tM/XoKtA2EKvdI/AAAAAAAASbg/JMLGWfB2Gt0P5W9K3dPAamzHDvi32o-NwCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h480/IMG_0160.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Portico di San Luca has 666 vaulted arcades, symbolizing the devil, and Mary's ultimate protection from him, encompasing 15 chapels along the way, dedicated to the Mysteries of the Rosary.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQ4DaV00mSo/XoKvG1hnxwI/AAAAAAAAScQ/f1SlLTrVPCoat7PgweqL-GzvMEN0NqJ-gCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0152.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-mQ4DaV00mSo/XoKvG1hnxwI/AAAAAAAAScQ/f1SlLTrVPCoat7PgweqL-GzvMEN0NqJ-gCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0152.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Now, I'm not Catholic, so I can't really go into much detail about these mysteries, sufficed to say that stopping to take note of the weathered artwork on the walls, behind the metal protective grates, the notes and flowers, the burnt-out candles on the ground and the drawings afixed onto the bars, made me acutely aware of the significance this path has for some.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WPLnTpxO_Fw/XoKvIRKce0I/AAAAAAAAScY/Mrt81bXj6eMMH3v1CiHxRXpGFZj31V69QCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0188.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-WPLnTpxO_Fw/XoKvIRKce0I/AAAAAAAAScY/Mrt81bXj6eMMH3v1CiHxRXpGFZj31V69QCK4BGAsYHg/w480-h640/IMG_0188.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div>
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<div>Since 1433 dedicated folk have walked here, carrying the icon of the Madonna with Child to and from Bologna's Cathedral of San Pietro, and I wanted to walk here too.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x1MG6BTMoJc/XoKtDzZ9rZI/AAAAAAAASbQ/vZwlHR9_FrcVvhTAbJHeSGudLecyHeczwCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0231.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-x1MG6BTMoJc/XoKtDzZ9rZI/AAAAAAAASbQ/vZwlHR9_FrcVvhTAbJHeSGudLecyHeczwCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0231.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>This got me thinking about my journeys, pilgrimages, if you will: the journey towards a sacred or special place. I did very intentionally plan for this particular walk, from one of Bologna's twelve gates of its ancient wall, the Porta Saragozza, to the hilltop church, wanting to take the time to reflect on the path in life I was taking, and what changes or decisions I needed to be making. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div>It was an incredible afternoon guided by the
faithful expanse of rolling forests and fields which surround northern
Italy's gorgeous Bologna. I can't say that I solved all (or any) of my problems that day, but the decision to make this journey, and following through with it, gave me the confidence to embark on further journeys that were to come. And, allowed me to reminisce on where I had been...<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xVk3AVxiaMc/XoKtEiV7wMI/AAAAAAAASbY/GaamYtMOztQY8CxcJ9mTzMazYms95hq5wCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0270.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-xVk3AVxiaMc/XoKtEiV7wMI/AAAAAAAASbY/GaamYtMOztQY8CxcJ9mTzMazYms95hq5wCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0270.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div><div>Just over 20 years ago, I spent a summer in the Austrian Alps
taking incredible days-long journeys up mountains, down into caves, and towards a better understanding of who I was and wanted to be. The process of
reaching the destination each evening, as much as we revelled in
reaching the warmth and promise of a great meal the mountain huts gave
us, was the part that stands out as most special in my mind. I did a lot
of growing on those tough craggy trails and klettersteig
climbs...figuring myself out in the aftermath of a young marriage and
super-young divorce, how to forgive and heal and look towards the path
ahead, while looking down from cross-adorned peaks. The work that is
done on your heart and mind when you're enduring the tough journey, that
is what builds character and definition. But, the choice to take the
journey is surely just as important, because without that decision there
is just netflix and chill...nowadays anyways.</div><div><br /></div><div>But,
what about the regular, dedicated journeys that we make, or should be
taking, in our 'normal' lives - not just the big, exciting Camino di
Santiago-type pilgrimages? For example, I have a dear friend who almost
daily walks up his suburban, tree-lined street towards a large, mostly
empty church, just to sit in silence and think. He's a great teller of
stories, and I'm sure it is because he deliberately and intentionally,
with care, takes the time to ponder the state of the world he lives in
and his place in it, so that he can put down in words in such illuminating ways what he sees and
feels.</div><div><br /></div><div>I have come to two conclusions:</div><div><br /></div><div>That
it is this making-of-space for thought and reflection and silence,
whether on an empty church pew, or in a field of grass, or on a
mountaintop, that is definitely important in creating a sense of
calm within our incredibly distracted lives, and in figuring out who we
are and who we should be in this ever-strange world we live in together...a destination we should all be so lucky in reaching.<br /></div><div><br /></div>But
also, that the decision to take the journey (any journey), and actually faithfully
putting one foot in front of the other, as we embark on the path,
trusting in ourselves that we have packed everything we need in order to go forward; whether it's towards a new relationship, towards healing an old one, towards a new career path, or towards getting to know our
neighbour or community, or towards healing ourselves and finding calm, the decision to
take the first step and continuing each day is surely the vital part of any journey.</div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ssmVM3zKHNQ/XoKtFXJ-G2I/AAAAAAAASbY/BS_lhllCghYT1ApilpO4WNqr0J9wMcXXQCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0285.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ssmVM3zKHNQ/XoKtFXJ-G2I/AAAAAAAASbY/BS_lhllCghYT1ApilpO4WNqr0J9wMcXXQCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0285.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div>As far as destinations go, Bologna is a great place to trek to. It is a city
which, firstly, esthetically, looks different from other Italian cities
(not that the others all look similar, of course, but this one stands
out). Bologna is painted in a patina of rust-coloured red, including
the Due Torri (two towers) which are visible from almost every vantage
point.<div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h96oiJLWvy8/XoKs5GBmvBI/AAAAAAAASbM/TDoAOo8miJ8c338pF4gcE4XFZ97tLzNcwCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0059.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-h96oiJLWvy8/XoKs5GBmvBI/AAAAAAAASbM/TDoAOo8miJ8c338pF4gcE4XFZ97tLzNcwCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0059.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>People are friendly here. They have been used to travellers and visitors since basically the beginning of time. The city is the centre of pretty much all major crossroads in Italy; between Venice and Genoa, between Florence and Milan, and lies directly on the path northwards from Rome to the rest of continental Europe. Bologna has always been a very important trade city, and one of the wealthiest in Italy due to its vital role in agriculture, finance and industry.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AepKWbeBM7E/XoKtItvelSI/AAAAAAAASbk/z_uUb6Y0g7UqIiVLQ7LpRrAknp9_4DbfwCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0351.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="1536" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AepKWbeBM7E/XoKtItvelSI/AAAAAAAASbk/z_uUb6Y0g7UqIiVLQ7LpRrAknp9_4DbfwCK4BGAsYHg/w480-h640/IMG_0351.JPG" width="480" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>It is one of the oldest cities. Period. Bologna's historic old town is Europe's second largest - for that alone it's worth the trip! But, it is also home to, some say, the oldest university in the world, although a local I had dinner with here implied that Ferrara's university, an hour away, should actually hold that title. <br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kNfLf0LCZhk/XoKs5RM1C3I/AAAAAAAASbM/VD0BG-kKcJEDi0E0yeqj6PGNmcYe391hQCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0004.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-kNfLf0LCZhk/XoKs5RM1C3I/AAAAAAAASbM/VD0BG-kKcJEDi0E0yeqj6PGNmcYe391hQCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h480/IMG_0004.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Nevertheless, Bologna's oldest university building, the Archiginnasio of Bologna is incredibly beautiful, and houses the anatomical theatre and municipal library, which was originally created to hold the books collected after Napoleon ordered the closure of all religious orders.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-469zdU6I2BU/XoKtHDeB7xI/AAAAAAAASbg/ob4c76wXeHg8gFL3kD9p9RVK6Df2llaVgCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0314.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1536" data-original-width="2048" height="480" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-469zdU6I2BU/XoKtHDeB7xI/AAAAAAAASbg/ob4c76wXeHg8gFL3kD9p9RVK6Df2llaVgCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h480/IMG_0314.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Bologna is the capital of my favourite Italian region, Emilia-Romagna, also known as Italy's 'bread basket' because it's the origin of some of the world's best food (IMO). Bolognese sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar (Modena!), to name a few, and a whole host of delicious pastas, including lasagne, cappelletti and stuffed tortellini.<br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I1IQ32gngMs/Wfcq1ec-UqI/AAAAAAAAF2Q/bXO_9_i9WbICfLW1TPYJaIfRyAREDrmFgCK4BGAsYHg/tomatofield.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-I1IQ32gngMs/Wfcq1ec-UqI/AAAAAAAAF2Q/bXO_9_i9WbICfLW1TPYJaIfRyAREDrmFgCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/tomatofield.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Driving or training (that's how I did it) on a food pilgrimage, beginning in Parma, through Modena, and ending in Bologna, will give you a tasty journey like no other. Wander through narrow streets lined with small shop fronts filled with hanging salami and mortadella and counters of freshly-made pasta, or sit in a cozy trattoria and eat what the locals eat. Try ordering a plate of parmigiano reggiano when you first arrive, which will be served with a small pot of honey and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, to get into the gastronomical groove for your tour...that's what I did, and oh my... <br /></div><div><br /></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gS76aofqajc/Wfcq0sHltKI/AAAAAAAAF2Q/Kx0POvwdIp8GvjYMPiJSc3tXRuAiq2F4wCK4BGAsYHg/schinkenhanging.jpg" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gS76aofqajc/Wfcq0sHltKI/AAAAAAAAF2Q/Kx0POvwdIp8GvjYMPiJSc3tXRuAiq2F4wCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/schinkenhanging.jpg" width="640" /></a></div><br /><div>For a truly authentic faith and food pilgrimage, try treking part of the Via Francigena from the Swiss Alps down to Rome...like the Romans did. Along the way, you will have much time to reflect on your life's journey while also passing directly through Emilia Romagna. You can taste test your way through Italian favourites...it's on my list!<br /></div><div><br /></div><div>I hope that by the end of my life (though hopefully it won't be take me that long) I will have found the dedication and thoughtfulness to not only go forth on the big journeys, but like the old woman on the bench, or my friend in the empty church, to embark on the smaller ones. To take the time in my day to read and reflect and think...to make the decision and to follow through with it like a ritual or pilgrimage. And if, like the old woman, my path leads me under a long, beautiful covered walkway, protecting me from the elements, I hope that I will never lose faith and will trust, as the Bolognese do, that something, possibly Mary, is always there watching over me.<br /></div><br /><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iwBLQv7FjBc/XoKs5-si3iI/AAAAAAAASbM/hBurYuL0a200mtD4zRwnIuzB-eM2iBkfwCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0060.JPG" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-iwBLQv7FjBc/XoKs5-si3iI/AAAAAAAASbM/hBurYuL0a200mtD4zRwnIuzB-eM2iBkfwCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0060.JPG" width="640" /></a></div><div><br /></div><div>Italy, especially the northern regions, has been heavy on my mind the past few months, as they have been one of the worst hit areas of the Covid-19 pandemic. I'm thinking of you, bella Italia, as you begin to heal and recover, and I look forward to visiting again soon. You are a special place.<br /></div><div><br /></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><tbody><tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bqizW14GlPI/XoKtF_dgbJI/AAAAAAAASbY/0ZKuseo6haA8uMGtcB8znz4a2ARy0JydQCK4BGAsYHg/IMG_0286.JPG" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="2048" data-original-width="2048" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-bqizW14GlPI/XoKtF_dgbJI/AAAAAAAASbY/0ZKuseo6haA8uMGtcB8znz4a2ARy0JydQCK4BGAsYHg/w640-h640/IMG_0286.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr><tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">(borrowed from an ad seen somewhere in Emilia-Romagna)<br /></td></tr></tbody></table><div><br /></div><div><i>If you go:</i></div><div><br /></div><div>Watch the incomparable Anthony Bourdain's great Emilia-Romagna episode...and drool.</div><div>https://www.dailymotion.com/video/x5wyx3h</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Bologna, Metropolitan City of Bologna, Italy44.494887 11.342616216.184653163821153 -23.813633799999998 72.805120836178844 46.4988662tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-36748014547874235142020-03-07T12:45:00.000-07:002020-03-07T12:45:12.123-07:00leaving...the most beautiful place I've called 'home'This post is far more personal than what I usually write, harkening back to the beginnings of my blog...which is kind of ironic actually.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bingen am Rhein, Germany</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me on a castle...where else?</td></tr>
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Because I'm leaving. I have left. This home. The Rhine. After 9 years, of living in Bingen, a small city on the banks of the Rhine River, I have moved back to Canada. To Alberta. To family. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Dad and I in Banff</td></tr>
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And, I want to share with you my 3 favourite things about this place I've called home.<br />
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But first, that begs the question: Where is home? I've asked this here before, is home where your family is? Where your stuff is? Where your love is? Where your puppy is?<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Sammy getting to know the neighbours</td></tr>
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Or does it have nothing to do with any of these things really, but is where you grew up, where you feel yourself and what is familiar? I'm not sure, but maybe you can have more than one place that meets the definition of 'home'...at varying times in your life. And, sometimes you just know when you need to leave. <br />
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Honestly, I have felt without a home for quite a while now...or maybe the better description would be, without a place to belong. I have felt for some time that I should be somewhere else, even though where I have been living since December 2010 has been one of the most beautiful, exciting, and inspriring places...full of wonderful people and experiences, and one very special puppy. I have made the choices to come and now to go, and am fully aware and grateful for the blessings I have been given: dual citizenship, parents who led the way to travel, explore, and move, and the gifts of opportunity, which are not given to everyone...especially not every woman.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">One of the coolest bachelorette parties ever...drinking, horses, castles, and more drinking!</td></tr>
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My time on the Rhine has been an ever-changing mixture of hopefulness and heartache. My hopes...the dreams I had when I moved here, two very specific ones, did not materialize. At all. Life is like that sometimes. Not everyone gets everything they want. But, I'm lucky in so many other ways, and am thankful that I have a fairly hopeful disposition and have been able to take in the many, many positive things in my life and be open to those experiences. I remind myself daily of the blessings of people, places and puppies (puppy!), not to mention work, that I am surrounded by. I have had a rich time here. But, I will continue to hope.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">As a boy...</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and a man (well, more of a teenager, really)</td></tr>
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There's a German saying, "hope dies last". Is that also an English saying? Might be.<br />
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I'm moving towards family, due to circumstances beyond my control. But, the decision to move now is mine, and I know it's the right time. I'm moving towards new work, while still enjoying my old work (my company didn't want to let me go and I didn't want to let it go). I'm moving towards old friends, blessed that new friends are already excited for the time when I'll be back in Germany again to work. I will continue to travel, and experience the richness of the diversity and sameness among all of us. And, I will be with family. All good things. And, I will continue to hope.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favourite Alberta thing...pub night with my peeps!</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">My favourite co-worker :) Budapest, our office away from the office.</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Mädels...my wine and travel buddies on Rhine</td></tr>
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Living beside the Rhine for 9 years, spending much time on it, and riding over it many, many times, has been an inspiration. At any time of day, or year, this incredible river is a force, a lifeblood, a road, a beauty, and it has been a privilege to join the millions before me who have made it their home. <br />
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I have benefited from the incredible vines that the river nourishes on its sun-kissed banks in Germany's largest wine region, Rheinhessen, and its steep cliffs along the Middle Rhine Valley. Here, where tourists flock to, I have lived and loved. Here, where blood used to flow as men fought for control of this vital waterway, and erected castle upon castle displaying power and might, I have taken a zillion photos, planned weddings (not mine), and toured visiting friends. I've been blessed.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wedding at Burg Reihenstein (Reihenstein Castle) - Trechtingshausen</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wedding in a park on the riverbank</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">...and reception high above the Rhine</td></tr>
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One bridge which I've crossed hundreds of times, almost every single day twice, brings me to a standstill regularly. Whether it's because the water and trees are gleaming, or because the fog hangs low above the river, letting only the church steeple and castle tower peer out from above, there is history. At the back of the scene is always the stone bridge anchoring the view, the Drususbrücke, Germany's oldest, still standing, still-at-work bridge. <br />
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This bridge has a mystical history. Built in the 1100's, close to where the Romans also had a stone bridge crossing the Nahe River, just before it flows into the Rhine, the Drusus Bridge was a gateway into the unknown. In the Middle Ages, it led into the dark and wild forests on the other side of the river. A small chapel built into the stone archway below the bridge, on the Bingen side, allowed travelers to say a prayer of protection and blessing before heading across into perilous territory. Nowadays, the chapel is only open on 'Tag der offene Denkmals' (Heritage Sites Open House), but it sure is a treat to enter, and the bridge a privilege to cross.<br />
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And, that brings me to my 3 favourite things about this area, the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, beginning at Bingen am Rhein.<br />
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1) The Castles<br />
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I always say to Canadians who are planning to come and visit, "only come if you like castles and wine...if you don't like either then you're wasting your time."<br />
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At the beginning of the valley, the Rhine Gorge UNESCO World Heritage Site, just around the corner from Bingen, the first castle is Burg Rheinstein. My mother loved this castle, called herself the 'Burg Prinzessin' (castle princess), dressing up in a long gown with flowers in her hair to get her photo taken here (no joke). So, I love it too.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Burg Rheinstein - Trechtingshausen</td></tr>
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And, at the end of the valley, approximately a 50-kilometre stretch of winding river and high, vineyard-covered hills, you will find the imposing Marksburg Castle. This is the only castle remaining which was never destroyed and never fell into disrepair. It is the perfect place to learn about the actual day-to-day runnings of a castle from the 1100's, with a fascinating tour explaining idioms which we have from the Middle Ages, such as 'caught you red-handed' or 'get off your high horse'.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Marksburg Castle - Braubach</td></tr>
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2) The Wine<br />
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You can't go far here without seeing sprawling vineyards, stumbling across a family-run wine tavern, or bumping into a sun-soaked wine festival. The folks who live here know their vintners..they are neighbours and friends, and often provide the liquid courage and cozy ambience in the locals' favourite haunts.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Historische Weinwirtschaft (Historical Wine Tavern) - Oberwesel</td></tr>
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Wine also goes a long way to helping create the crazy days of carneval, sustaining Germany's longest-running wine festival (Bingen's!), warming the hearts and hands of Christmas market revellers, and is most often the catalyst for friends to gather and enjoy a glass on a Rhine terrace, backyard or while watching fireworks (Germans love their fireworks!).<br />
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Wine can also be enjoyed directly among the vintner's own vineyards, for example, along the Rheinsteig, one of Germany's famous hiking trails. The route goes up and down along the Middle Rhine Valley, a route consisting of 21 stages along 320 kms. Among some of the vineyards through which the trail leads, there are wine stands where weary hikers can take a rest, insert some coins (and ID) and have a glass or share a bottle. Coming from Canada, I thought this was just the best thing since sliced bread!<br />
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And, if you are interested in hitting one spot where you can taste-test the wines from both sides of the Rhine here, then there's no better place than the Rhein Weinwelt at Rüdesheim. Here, you buy tokens and then go through various rooms, where the local vintners are displayed along with their wines. Insert a token, pour yourself a sip from the dispenser, and enjoy! It really is quite fun.<br />
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3) Boating & Biking<br />
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As I've mentioned, I have spent a lot of time either on the Rhine or
riding along side it. I commuted to and from work for 6 years, riding
along the gorgeous Rhine bike trails. It's been 8 days and I already miss it. <br />
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The views change each day, each season...always dynamic. Sometimes the waters rise too high, or get dangerously low, but the Rhine is never boring. The freighters are a constant, carrying everything from John Deere tractors (a sight which always reminds me of the Canadian prairies) to metal trash to oil, with entertaining names like 'Enjoy' and 'Patience'.<br />
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Coming here for a day or a week, the best thing to do is to get on the water. I booked a boat tour every day the first time I visited Bingen. There are hourly or day tours, and obviously also multi-day river cruises, heading down this stretch of the Rhine. <br />
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For many years, we would take our little motorboat to our favourite watering hole along the river bank. And, on hot summer days, we would jump in the boat and throw the anchor on the far side of the Mouse Tower island, and go swimming. It felt like a holiday every single time.<br />
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During my 9 years on the Rhine, I have been blessed to get to know some great forever friends...some furry, some German, and even one Canadian, who I oktoberfested with, laughed with and even touched Merkel with. #goodtimes<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Canadians...on beer</td></tr>
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And, I've seen much more of the world than I thought I would. There are so many corners to explore, near and far. I would encourage all of us to start or continue to go beyond our own neck of the woods...get to know each other, listen to each other's stories, and learn the lessons of the past. There are so many roads that have been traveled, and they so inspire me.<br />
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Now, I'm here, in Alberta, surrounded by snow and sunshine. And, if not for the coronavirus, last week I would have had an airport greeting like this one a few years and one nephew ago. So much love.<br />
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But Germany, I'll be back...there's lots of carneval, wine and Rhine to still celebrate...work to do and a puppy to visit. Home.<br />
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For now, I will look forward, focus on family, new work and the mountains. And continue to hope. <br />
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<i>If you go:</i><br />
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Bingen is just 45 minutes west of Frankfurt, by car or train, in the middle of Germany. It is close to the Belgium and Luxembourg border, and sits at the beginning of the Upper Rhine Gorge.<br />
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Train Info: https://www.bahn.com/en/view/index.shtml<br />
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Bingen am Rhein - https://www.bingen.de/en/<br />
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Rhine Gorge (Middle Rhine Valley) - https://worldheritagegermany.com/upper-middle-rhine-valley/<br />
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Castles:<br />
Reihenstein Castle https://www.burg-reichenstein.com/en/<br />
Rheinstein Castle https://www.burg-rheinstein.de/<br />
Marksburg Castle https://www.marksburg.de/en/<br />
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Hiking:<br />
Rheinsteig Trail https://www.rheinsteig.de/en/the-rheinsteig/stages/<br />
Rhine Castle Trail (Rhein-Bürgen-Weg) https://www.romantic-germany.info/things-to-do/hiking/long-distance-hiking-trails/rheinburgenweg-trail/<br />
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Boat Tours: https://www.bingen-ruedesheimer.de/en<br />
Wine Tasting: https://www.rheinweinwelt.de/en/<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com5Bingen am Rhein, Deutschland49.9667396 7.904596000000000649.884995599999996 7.7432345000000007 50.0484836 8.0659575000000014tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-6324135460081337112020-01-31T08:34:00.002-07:002020-02-02T10:06:21.634-07:00camden, london...a day of canal walks, the market, and charming hampstead<h4>
A lovely day in Camden Borough</h4>
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...starting with a walk along Regent's Canal</div>
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Three weeks ago I spent a lovely London day exploring a part of the city which I didn't know...Camden Borough. I started the morning off with a walk along Regent's Canal, beginning just around the corner from Pancras Station, and heading towards Camden Town.<br />
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Along the narrow canal, I loved checking out the many whimsical houseboats, viewing the interesting waterfront architecture, and snapping the cute tunnel paths.<br />
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The Regent's Canal walk gets leafier and more colourful the closer you get to Camden Town and the market area.<br />
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The street art on tunnel underpasses, shopfronts, and stairwells is fascinating along the walk. Politically motivated (aka. Banksy) or social commentary or just plain artful, I loved the graffiti and took tons of photos.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Banksy's Missile Girl</td></tr>
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Since moving to the Rhine over nine years ago, I have become obsessed with boat names. Some are inspiring, beautiful or just funny, and I often wonder about why the family aboard gave that vessel her name. Here, along the canal, it was no different. Promise. Hope. Molly Anna. Little Drifter. Some are homes, some are cafes, and one is even a bookstore.<br />
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I met up with a friend along the canal for a delicious Venezualan lunch at Arepas. We ate scrumptious Pernil Arepas and Cachapas (braised pork shoulder, avocado, pico de gallo, spicy mayo, onions and fresh herbs), the first a corn flour cake, the second a pancake version...both excellent, good value and so filling.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Arepas</td></tr>
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<h4>
Hampstead Town</h4>
An 8-minute ride on the Northern line from Camden Town and you're in Hampstead Town. This charming community boasts London's deepest underground platform (58 metres), gorgeous lanes and alleyways in every direction, and a very impressive list of affluence and celebrity making their home here.<br />
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I decided to check out some little antique shops along the high street. Similar to visiting garage sales or flea markets, antique shops show a side of local life that you don't normally get to see as a tourist. Antique stores hold essentially the junk of the wealthy, those items they don't want or have a use for anymore. I like that...and so I picked up an old tea cup and saucer, probably once owned by a super rich person :) When in Rome...<br />
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I took A Lady in London's advice and walked her favourite lanes in Hampstead Town: Church Row, Holly Walk, Flask Walk and Mansfield Place. Perfect recommendation. These take you on a beautiful tour of the residential area, up hills and past quaint (but surely expensive) cottages, boutique hotels and hidden pubs.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church Row</td></tr>
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Hampstead became fashionable in the 1700's due to its healing waters, causing upper class families to flock here. Over the following centuries, many in the intellectual, literary and art communities also made their homes in Hampstead, even though the town couldn't keep up its spa reputation against places like Bath and Cheltenham.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Holly Walk</td></tr>
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At the top of Holly Walk you will find nice views over Hampstead's rooftops. You can't see the Heath, but it's close. Hampstead Heath is London's largest ancient parkland, according to Wikipedia, and has a great London lookout point from Parliament Hill.<br />
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I always photograph tiles like the one below, which hang above a house's front entrance. You will find these all over Europe, and as far as I understand it, they date back to the middle ages before there were house numbers, to let visitors know who the home's inhabitants were. In this case, did a polo player once live here...although polo came to London at a much later date.<br />
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Richard Burton, Aldous Huxley, John Keats, Sigmund Freud, John Constable and George Michael all made Hampstead their home, because of its proximity to London City, but its exclusive village feel. Fun fact, Hampstead has more millionaires than any other area in the UK. Whoa.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flask Walk</td></tr>
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I took my time meandering through the gorgeous lanes, taking photos of the interesting homes here, and enjoying a rare sunny January morning.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mansfield Place</td></tr>
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Then back toward High Street, where cute boutiques, cafes and pubs abound. It's the perfect place for a rest stop...a flat white or a pint, or afternoon tea.<br />
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And, this lady above one shop intrigued me. I don't know what she signifies, but the imagination could run wild about what stories this building might be able to tell...if only it could talk.<br />
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Then back to the centre of town and the tube station. By early afternoon I was ready to go back to Camden Town to explore the market and have a drink.<br />
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<h4>
Camden Town & Camden Lock Market</h4>
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Walking from the tube station toward Camden Lock Market feels light years away from the small-town vibe of Hampstead just 10 minutes away. It felt I had landed in 1980's New York or present day Berlin. Cool people of all walks of life are here to be seen. It is colourful and, anything but boring.<br />
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The market has a complicated history, and has changed and redefined itself many times over the past few hundred years. Its current state, since 1974 and called Camden Lock Market, boasts 28 million visitors a year! Although the actual Camden lock is not in use anymore, there are 3 dual locks on the canal which runs along the market area.<br />
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Camden Market includes the Stables Market, which is a covered series of large 'rooms' which once housed the Pickfords Stables and Horse Hospital dating back to the 1700's. The horses at Pickfords were responsible for pulling the barges up the canals, until the invention of the automobile changed the company into a van and lorry business.<br />
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Outside of the market I walked along Chalk Farm Road, looking for a bakery that was on my list to visit and taking many a pic along the way.<br />
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Soon enough, I found Luminary Bakery's Chalk Farm location. The staff were lovely, the atmosphere lively, and my scone incredibly good. I really like the story and continued mission of Luminary, which provides training and a supportive workplace for women needing a bit of sunshine in their life. I will be going back there whenever I'm in the city.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Luminary Bakery</td></tr>
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And, to close, here is my number 1 tip for new visitors to London: skip the hop on-hop off buses and get an Oyster card and ride the real red double-decker buses! They cost a fraction and get you everywhere you want to go with the exact same view as the tourist buses. And, even if you're not quite sure where you're going, just get on and take in the views of this great city. That's what I do!<br />
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<i>If you go:</i><br />
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-first of all, check out A Lady in London's blog for tips, ideas, great photos and guides to everything London. That's what I do. www.aladyinlondon.com<br />
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-get an Oyster Card for the tube and bus network. It's so easy to use, easy to load and way cheaper than any other mode of transportation. You'll get the hang of the tube in no time!<br />
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-like any city which is popular with tourists, try to find spots for tea and pub lunches and great eats where the locals go. London is expensive at any time so going where the locals go will ensure that you're getting the most for your buck (pound).<br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Camden Town, London, UK51.5390261 -0.1425515999999333951.5291501 -0.16272159999993338 51.5489021 -0.12238159999993339tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-83601173149728621842019-12-10T08:05:00.000-07:002019-12-10T08:05:18.605-07:00freiburg...christmas spirit in the black forestIn Germany's Black Forest, so-called because of its dense, dark pines, you can spend hours or days hiking amongst gnomes and wood fairies, howling wolves and vampires. Surely, none of these things actually exist here, but I don't find it difficult for a minute to imagine they do. <br />
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The Black Forest is bordered to the west by the mighty Rhine in Germany's south-west, can wave branches to France and Switzerland, and is a beloved tourist destination for hiking, spa-ing, and cuckoo-clocking. Here is where tradition lives...and is loved. <br />
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The Black Forest inpires moments of wandering along pine-scented hiking trails, enjoying cozy, firelit evenings with steaming cups of anything, and relishing sumptuous food with names like Spätzle, Knöpfle, Gugelhupf and of course, Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake). <br />
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But, the Black Forest can also really do Christmas. In its largest city, Freiburg, the advent spirit of twinkle lights and mulled wine, the manger and St. Nick, children singing and adults shopping is a well-lived tradition.<br />
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Freiburg is a very old city, and even without the Christmas flair, is a beloved tourist destination for people wanting to explore the Black Forest. Founded in 1120 as a free market town, it is humming with wine connoisseurs and university students, architecture fans and witch-hunters. Well, to be honest, the witch-hunters have long gone, but the fact that there were witches here to be hunted is kind of exciting. Not for the witches who were hunted of course...I digress. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Historical Merchant's Hall</td></tr>
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Beginning in the 1200's, and continuing on for centuries, Freiburg was a bustling town of free trade and merchant deals, as buyers and sellers made this the financial hub of the region due to its strategic position between the Mediterranean and North Seas, and its connection to the Rhine and Danube Rivers.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Freiburg Münster - a medieval cathedral</td></tr>
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In the heart of the city, is the Freiburg Münster, an imposing medieval gothic cathedral which took over 300 years to build. Can you imagine what a thankless job it was building this, knowing even your grandchildren's children won't be seeing the finished product?<br />
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But, it does have one of the most spectacular entrances that I have ever seen. The colours and detail on every figure is awe-inspiring, not to mention the huge double wooden doors which are about two-stories high. In this case, taking their time really paid off for the (many) architects.<br />
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The Freiburg Minster has the only German gothic church tower completed in the Middle Ages and still standing today, surviving countless numbers of wars and weather. Impressively, the Minster began as a Romanesque cathedral, but ended up as Gothic.<br />
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Another interesting, and whimsical feature of Freiburg's old town is its system of Bächle. These narrow streams flow throughout the pedestrian area, and also date back to the Middle Ages when they were used to feed livestock and put out fires. They have always had fresh water running through them, and I was very happy to hear that they were never used for sewage! <br />
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Much of Freiburg's impressive buildings were somehow spared during the WWII bombing raids, including the two commanding city gates, the Schabentor and the older Martinstor. There are wooden beams in the Martinstor that date back to 1202!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Martinstor - one Freiburg's original gates</td></tr>
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And it serves as surely one of McDonald's most impressive locations. Sigh. <br />
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But, now back to Christmas. I was visiting my dear friend, who moved to Freiburg a year ago, and had heard (from pretty much every German I know) how pretty Freiburg is and how wonderfully dreamy its Christmas market is. Germans are no liars. <br />
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I suggest, for anyone wanting to photograph a Christmas market, to go at dusk or just before dusk. That is when the lights are on, but it's not too dark to get the details in the photographs. And, because you should actually enjoy the market, leave the tripod at home. <br />
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One wonderful constant at every German Christmas market is glorious Glüwein (hot mulled wine). I love it. Red, white, rosé...it's all perfection. <br />
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And on this early December evening, our not-too-few mugs of steaming,
sweet, but tart wine helped us to forget that it was pretty darn cold
outside.<br />
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At many traditional German Christmas markets you will still find locally, handcrafted decorations and ornaments. Sometimes you do have to look hard , and possibly even ask if the items are made in China or Germany, but in Freiburg it was quick and easy to find the real things.<br />
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These gorgeous, tiny pewter tree ornaments were so lovely and authentic, made just around the corner, that I had to buy one.<br />
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There is also an assortment of great things to eat, including sausages from the region in all kinds of delicious flavours. These make a great treat to bring back home.<br />
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But, what we were really excited about was the Christmas market version of Raclette which isn't found at too many German Christmas markets, at least not at any I have been to. <br />
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Raclette is actually a Swiss meal (Freiburg is just 70 kms from the Swiss border), and revolves around Racelette cheese. The wheel of this alpine cheese is melted and then scraped onto potatoes and onions, often including various meats and pickles. It is yummy. Bergkäse (alpine cheese) is something you just need to try...it's so full of flavour that you don't really need much more than that.<br />
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Pretty much no European Christmas market is complete without a Striezel stand. This cone-shaped sweet bread coated in sugar and cinnamon, or almonds and cocoa, has a different name in practically every country, but the idea is the same. It's delish.<br />
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As the evening grew darker the warm glow of the lights blanketed the cobblestoned streets of the old town and the atmosphere was festive and joyful. Okay, maybe it was the glüwein warming the thousands of revellers, but hey, we were all out together enjoying the fact that it's Christmastime...a time to be together, to give of each other and be thankful for the most important gifts.<br />
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Some people have a harder time than others being joyful in a crowd, but I'm sure the Santa hat helps. <br />
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And so that no one loses sight of the real reason most of us are celebrating Christmas, the German markets pretty much always have a large nativity scene set up. This one in Freiburg was almost life-size and so pretty, but I had to really fight the urge to jump in and cover up baby Jesus. A real baby would've been screaming his brains out on that cold night. Maybe Jesus wouldn't have.<br />
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So, in these pre-Christmas weeks, I want to wish you wonderful moments with cherished friends and family. I will spend these days trying to visit more markets, one of my favourite things to do at this time of year, while appreciating the many blessings that I am surrounded by. Cheers, my friends!<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Freiburg im Breisgau, Deutschland47.9990077 7.8421042999999647.8289672 7.51938079999996 48.1690482 8.16482779999996tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-10696635184792105762019-11-09T06:18:00.002-07:002020-05-30T14:45:49.371-07:00the berlin wall...its peaceful demise, and the people who brought about change<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Today, 30 years ago, the world watched as hundreds of thousands of East and West Germans literally pulled the Berlin Wall down. As inspiring and incredible as that day was, and I remember well the excitement and underage drinking that celebration involved in Canada, at the German Canadian Club, the story about how this came to pass should mean much more to us now then just the events of November 9, 1989.<br />
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The power that people have when they work together <i>for good</i> inspires me greatly, and how a group of average East German citizens, over a decade got this ball rolling, forcing local, then European, and then international leaders to take notice, enacting significant change for the better, is nothing short of incredible.<br />
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Often it takes just one person to have the courage to get things started.<br />
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Way back in the early 1980's, Christian Führer (which funnily enough translates into English as 'christian leader'), a new pastor of the protestant Nikolai Church in Leipzig, East Germany, began Monday night prayer meetings at the church. Open to everyone, it was a chance for mostly young people to connect, to pray, and to dream for a better future.<br />
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East Germans, at that time, had already been living with the communist GDR regime for decades, and the Berlin Wall was already 20 years old. An entire generation of young people hadn't known freedom.<br />
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The GDR was a brutal regime. Uprisings in the '60's had been bloodily quashed, rumours constantly swirled of Stasi spies infiltrating workplaces, schools, and even families. People had gotten used to watching what they said and did, and with they talked too, everywhere, everyday, because enough people had already disappeared without a trace or been imprisoned indefinitely.<br />
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Everything was censored, everyone was watched, and almost nobody was allowed to travel. East Germany was just 15% the size of Texas. Just think about that for a minute. Your entire life you are not allowed to travel anywhere. You are locked in, with guards ready to shoot if you try to escape. And many tried.<br />
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The Monday night prayer meetings became a fixed event in 1982. Over the years, many who attended weren't from the church, but came to discuss the hot topic of the time, the suppressive and restrictive Cold War.<br />
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What surprises me is that the meetings were actually allowed to take place at all. Apparently, in the late '70's the state agreed to recognise churches within the communist system, after decades of repression. The GDR thought they would be able to better control the Volk if they co-opted church leaders...essentially making them an extension of the state. Church leaders were basically supposed to keep dissidence down and rein in any rebellion....essentially they were supposed to spy on their congregations.<br />
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But, the Nikolai Church became a safe place for thought leaders, for dreamers, for the courageous. 7 years of coming together, of praying together, of planning peaceful dissidence, of working together, led to some of the largest protests ever seen taking place. Completely peaceful. Completely successful.<br />
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The focus throughout the years was always peace...and freedom. In 1987, Führer organised a peace march. In 1988 he led prayers for protestors who had been arrested during regular demonstrations. All the while, the state was watching. And in 1989 the heat from the authorities turned onto the Monday night prayer meetings. Roads were blocked to the church. Random people going in or out of the church were randomly arrested. But, the Monday night peace prayers continued. Unwavering, resolute, and always peaceful.<br />
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On October 9, 70,000 people took to the streets after the Monday night session to protest the presence of 1000 military, police and Stasi (secret police) officers standing in front of the church. The authorities were fully armed and ready for confrontation...but they didn't get it. The leaders of the peace prayers repeatedly appealed to the crowd to remain peaceful, to stay calm, and show no aggression.<br />
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A week later, on October 16, 120,000 protestors peacefully took to the streets with slogans of 'No Violence' painted on signs and practiced by the masses. Banners with 'For an open country, with Free people' were waved about by the thousands.<br />
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November 6, 500,000 people filled the streets of Leipzig's centre. Peacefully and powerfully.<br />
They were fighting for:<br />
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Free elections and the freedom to vote<br />
Freedom to travel and move where they wanted<br />
Freedom of the press<br />
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Does this not sound incredibly familiar right now, in 2019? Thirty years later, in almost every country the fight is still real. East Germany won freedom, and the wall came down, because of common folk going to the streets, not giving up, forcing change...and international leaders stepping up to the plate, listening and enacting change.<br />
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Peaceful protest is much more powerful than aggression. Throwing pipe bombs, destroying shopfronts, burning cars (and not that I can't try to imagine the frustration, anger, and hopelessness) distracts and creates attention, but with violence the government has a 'bad guy'. They can focus on the 'rioters', the 'hooligans', and the 'gangs' as criminals, instead of focusing on their message.<br />
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With peaceful protest, there is nothing to focus on except what the crowd is saying, chanting, moving. There is no bad guy, except those in power who are not listening, not doing, just ignoring.<br />
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As difficult as situations are in so many corners of the world right now (Hong Kong, Lebanon, Chile, Iraq, Spain), with so many violent demonstrations causing loss of life, chaos and insecurity...go in peace, my friends. Stay. Stay strong. Stay peaceful. The world. Will. Listen.<br />
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And, on a lighter a note about Leipzig...one of the most elegant Starbucks I have ever seen is located in the former arrivals hall of the central train station. It is a beautiful art deco delight.<br />
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See the church and be inspired, have a coffee and be at rest.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-55645267908799522019-08-31T08:21:00.003-07:002019-09-03T07:34:32.187-07:00the italian riviera...2 perfect days<h4 class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
<br />Santa Margherita...the perfect home base </h4>
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On Italy's north-western coast you will find the most gorgeous towns, where the Italian jetset from Milan spend their summers. Some are difficult to see through the wall of yachts filling their coves, but others are, in comparison, more the wall flower towns, ignored due to their glitzy neighbours. For me, Santa Margherita is one of these perfect, 'plain-jane' gems on the Italian Riviera - mostly undiscovered by the masses...and wonderfully situated for two great days of touring.</div>
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This area is not called the <i>Golfo Paradiso</i> for nothing. </div>
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Day 1: Camogli, San Fruttuoso, Portofino...train, hike, boat </h3>
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Camogli </h4>
Training around Italy is very easy and affordable. The stations can be crowded, but September is a great time to visit. School holidays in Europe are mostly over, the exhausting heat has moved on, and what's leftover is just dreamy Italian goodness. Let's start with one of my favourites...Camogli.<br />
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I have written about Camogli before, and I said I'd be back. Little did I know it would be quite so soon. The train from Santa Margherita to Camogli takes less than 10 minutes, but from Camogli there is a wonderful hike back, which will take you to San Fruttuoso...a hidden cove only reachable by foot or boat.<br />
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But first, Camogli. Just north of Santa Margherita nestled amongst the rocky, sea-battered hills, this fishing village, like many fishing villages, has a turbulent past of piracy, shipwrecks, and even Napoleon! His fleet was stationed in Camogli in 1978 according to Wikipedia (the knower of all things true).<br />
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But, now Camogli has a peaceful, serene vibe. Sure, there are tourists like me, but it's not overrun. It is quaint; the houses colourful, the cafés outside, and the horizon the bluest of blue.<br />
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The trail leading south meanders up many stairs, behind homes dotted along the hillside, towards a chapel high on the hill, San Rocco di Camogli. <br />
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As is custom in Italy, the trails are dotted with Christian markers, these here especially large and colourful. I'm not exactly sure of the significance...if they're meant to be signposts towards the a deeper faith possibly, or inspiration, or just symbols of adoration. It doesn't matter to me, I just found them so beautiful among the rocks.<br />
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Needless to say, the view back towards Camogli is a treat, but as we kept getting closer to our first goal, I was getting more and more excited. It takes under an hour to reach the hidden cove of San Fruttuoso and I couldn't wait to get there!<br />
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San Fruttuoso </h4>
Nestled in a deep cove lies the Abbey of San Fruttuoso of Capodimonte, which you reach after many steep, zig-zaggedy steps back down to sea level. The Abbey was built in the tenth century purposefully hidden out of view to protect it from pirates and other sea-faring bandits. <br />
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The cove is a lovely spot to bath, drink an aperol and have a bowl of pasta. Most people come and go by boat from Camogli or Portofino, and that is what we chose to do. After a rest, we hopped on a boat, enjoying the view from the water, and jetted along the coast heading south to Portofino.<br />
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But, not before passing the site of the underwater Cristo degli Abissi - the Christ of the Abyss. This huge bronze statue (8 feet tall) was placed on the sea floor in 1954, dedicated to an Italian diving instructor, at the place where the first Italian to use scuba gear died. Copies of the statue are located off the coast of Grenada and Florida - Christ's arms and head facing upwards in a blessing of peace.<br />
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Portofino </h4>
What is there to say about Portofino? As our boat turned the bend from open sea in towards the bay of Portofino, we were first greeted by a giant yacht...one of many. I strained to try and make out who was on board: JayZ and B, Bill Gates, Ralph Lauren? I couldn't tell. But, this is apparently the place to be, if you are rich and not currently in St. Tropez or Mykonos.<br />
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It is beautiful, absolutely. Portofino has cute, coloured houses surrounding a quaint harbour, and but for the super high-end boutiques among its few streets and the yachts blocking the view of the Ligurian Sea, you won't see much difference from Camogli, in my opinion. The plain fact is all of these towns are gorgeous!<br />
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It's also the perfect place for another Aperol! I really need to start including this refreshing drink into my 5 o'clock, after-work routine...if the Italians do it, then everyone should do it.<br />
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Apparently, Portofino is still technically a fishing village. But, since the European aristocracy discovered it in the late nineteenth century fishing has slowly taken a backseat to tourism. We were lucky to have visited on a quiet day. It was late afternoon and there were no cruise ships in the area, and so we found the town to be peaceful and pretty. From Portofino it is a 20-minute bus ride or hour's walk along the seashore back to homebase, Santa Margherita....where pizza awaited us.<br />
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<h3>
Day 2: Cinque Terra's Vernazza...train, hike </h3>
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Pretty much anyone who is on Instagram has the dream of visiting Cinque Terra someday. Any of the 5 villages making up this unique and extraordinary area is grammed hundreds of times a day. 'Picturesque' seems a mundane word to describe Cinque Terra, but nonetheless the term fits.<br />
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We chose to visit Vernazza, the second, most northern of the villages, and 1 hour away from Santa Margherita by train. We took our time exploring the little harbour and the narrow the lanes, slowly making our way to higher ground, wanting to get the view from above.<br />
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The way people live here intrigued me, and I could've take a million photographs. Whenever a door opened I tried to sneak a peak inside. I'm not sure if the flats are all small and narrow and high, or if beyond the outside walls there are large open spaces inside...something I can't quite imagine.<br />
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The homes are built as if among the rocky cliffs, and not just atop them. It is a curious mix of concrete and rock, as if to purposefully blend the two: nature and man. I'm sure this coast experiences some hefty weather and no doubt the rock provides shelter and structure to the many homes and buildings here. <br />
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The bright colours and laundry hanging on the lines everywhere can't help but bring joy...again, as if on purpose.<br />
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We wandered the narrow trail which connects all of the villages, to the top of Vernazza, and were rewarded with an incredible view. We had perfect weather, as you can see. <br />
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Back to Santa Margherita...swim, eat, eat</h4>
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Upon our late afternoon return to Santa Margherita we went for a swim and laid out on the beach. It really is the perfect town to rest for a while, while also exploring some fascinating corners of the Italian Riviera. </div>
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And don't think for a minute that we weren't enjoying the incredible food. The pizza was to die for, with such simple, fresh ingredients, baked as they should be in a stone oven. We drank wine and ate on outside terraces each evening, taking in all the wonderfulness that Italy has to offer.<br />
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<i><span id="goog_147576362"></span><span id="goog_147576363"></span>If you go:</i><br />
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Training in Italy is easy - book online or on-site for short trips - www.trenitalia.com<br />
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Santa Margherita dining - pizza and seafood are excellent options.<br />
Try these delicious options:<br />
-A Santa Lucia Pizzeria<br />
-Trattoria Baicin (Specialty Seafood)<br />
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We stayed in a very cute, but apparently illegal suite (common in Italy) and therefore I won't mention it here. The prices along the coast, in the towns along the Golfo Paradiso are higher than inland of course, but for a couple of nights it definitely won't break the bank. Just search and take your time in planning and you will find something perfect. Have fun! <br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com016038 Santa Margherita Ligure, Genua, Italien44.3254364 9.195443244.2800009 9.1147622 44.370871900000004 9.2761242tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-45974424269885932632019-07-31T14:50:00.000-07:002019-08-01T02:48:53.142-07:00bath, somerset...5 must-sees and a mistress named popjoy<div dir="ltr" style="line-height: 1.38; margin-bottom: 0pt; margin-top: 0pt;">
<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">The honey-coloured houses welcomed me first, as I left the train station and began the walk through town to the inn we were </span><span style="font-size: 14.666666984558105px; white-space: pre-wrap;">going</span><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;"> to be staying in for one night in Bath. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">An easy 1.5 hour train ride, this day trip from London should be on your list, not just because it's a pretty town, but because it is full of the most interesting history going way, way back. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Pubs are ubiquitous here, and with names like ‘The Raven’, The Griffin’, 'Home of the best pie!', 'Local Ales!' they offer the most wonderful invitations to stay and rest for a while, which we happily took advantage of every 2 hours or so. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">A large plaque caught my attention in the centre of town, dedicated to Beau Nash. With a mistress named Juliana Popjoy how can anything go wrong? The so-called ‘King of Bath’, Nash and his mistress, Miss Popjoy (could there be a better name for a mistress?), ruled the town in the late 1700’s. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">The organized “entertainments” and made Bath the ‘it’ place to be, not just for its healing waters, but for fashion and fun. It is said that Miss Popjoy’s ghost occasionally pops by (pardon the pun) to check if guests of Bath are being entertained to the degree she and Beau Nash would have approved of, over 200 years before. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">So, in order that you are as entertained as I was on my recent visit (no mistresses involved), here are the five must-sees in Bath, along with a little story: </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Royal Crescent</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">The Royal Crescent is where I experienced Jane Austen. I could absolutely imagine her walking the lawns overlooking Bath, and the hilly countryside, as she contemplated her next book or wrote her sister letters. The Crescent was never her address in Bath, when she began spending time here in the late 18th century. Her family didn’t have the means for such a home (few do), but the energy here feels romantic and storybook...just like Jane. </span></span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">A fascinating architectural feature of the Royal Crescent is the uniform, terraced housing which one sees from the front, which completely betrays the chaos and unevenness from the back. This design is apparently common in Bath and bears the whimsical name of “Queen Anne fronts and Mary-Anne backs”. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Add to this the fact that the sloping lawns in front of the crescent are cut by a ha-ha, and Bath could really be straight out of a novel (not surprising that it’s the setting for so many). A ha-ha is an actual term for the ditch, which on one side is a steep slope of lawn, betraying the other side which is a stone wall. The effect is one of a continuous green slope. Ha-ha! </span></span><br />
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<h3>
<span style="font-family: inherit;">The Circus</span></h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Much quieter than, say, Piccadilly Circus, this circus on the north-end of Bath, easily walkable from the centre of town, is a residential square...but yet a circle...and surely not for your normal resident. A completely round circle of elegant townhouses, with 3 entrances into in, the circus was designed in the mid-1700’s by John Wood, to mimic Stonehenge. </span></span><br />
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<h3>
The Royal Baths</h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">Be prepared to spend quite a bit of time here if you are inspired by the stories of the past, like way in the past (AD 43). The 3D holographs which appear in the many excavated rooms of the bath describe in detail the normal routines of the Romans, and the importance of these communal places... to catch-up with each other, to visit and share experiences, to rest and rejuvenate together, through hot, cold and healing waters. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-size: 11pt; white-space: pre-wrap;">At the end of the self-guided tour you can taste the earthy, mineral water for yourself and ponder the worth which was placed upon it over the past hundreds, if not, thousands of years. There was even a Royal Mineral Water Hospital! </span></span><br />
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Bath Abbey</h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";"><span style="font-family: inherit;">Founded in the 7th century, the Bath Abbey is home to thousands of people who were buried under the cathedral's stone floor, with over 800 stone tiles dedicated to prominent city members hundreds of years old. The current abbey, which sits on the remains of a Norman cathedral, has been undergoing gentle excavations and reconstruction in order to stabilize the ground beneath, which has deteriorated due to the crumbling bones of upwards of 6000 people. Walking over the engraved stone floor, I felt like a trespasser, treading upon the gravestones of long-gone souls.</span></span><br />
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Pulteney Bridge across the River Avon</h3>
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">I saved the best for last, in my opinion. As you walk across the bridge it feels like you're walking along a cute lane, with quaint storefronts and a tourist or two (huh!). But, peeking around the side and looking over the waist-high stone wall, you see a construction so beautiful, with the greenest of waters flowing beneath its rounded arches. And, then there is the River Avon...which brings every book-lover's heart to swoon.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Now, back to Miss Popjoy, because I just can't resist. Her paramour, Beau Nash, was a dandy. This is a word that we should absolutely bring back into colloquial language. Do you know what the definition of a 'dandy' is? I didn't! But, oh does it make me laugh. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">A dandy, historically, is a man who places particular importance upon physical appearance, refined language, and leisurely hobbies, pursued with the appearance of nonchalance in a cult of self. (wikipedia)</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Mostly, a dandy was a man pretending to be more than he was...an impersonator of the upper classes while actually coming from a much lower class. Essentially, a betrayer...a ha-ha.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">By all accounts, Beau Nash was the Kanye West of his time. A fashion innovator, a host of great balls and parties, a bundle of chaos mixing himself up in politics, nobility and the normal folk, and crossing boundaries and pushing limits. Nash was bewondered by many, achieving a high-flying life of women and influence, leaving his last mistress so distraught upon his death that she lived most of her remaining years in a hollowed-out tree. Now, that is what I call leaving a mark on someone! Alas, Miss Popjoy was joyful no longer.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">Either along the cute lanes, among the imposing historical sights, or inside the cozy pubs, a trip to Bath will no doubt leave you entertained, and possibly even inspired.</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">If you go:</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">- For tickets from London Paddington to Bath Spa - 1.5 hour trip one-way www.trainline.com</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">- Bath is very walkable, with all the sites easily reachable on foot. You don't really need a hop-on, hop-off bus or tour. Stop for a pinto or pie in any of the great pubs whenever you need a refreshment</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">- If you stay the night, I highly recommend The Griffin Inn...so cozy, with excellent pub fare, run by super-nice people www.thegriffinbath.co.uk</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">- Where to eat, The Raven has the best pies (IMO) having won awards for them! And it has the coolest history. Ale and pie...what could be better! www.theravenofbath.co.uk</span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "arial";">- We skipped going into the thermal bath in Bath, because let's face it, it's super expensive (36 Pounds for hours, on a weekday). So, we toured the Roman Baths instead (18 Pounds, on a weekday), and were not disappointed! It was an incredible experience, so interesting and pretty. So, if you have to pick one or the other, go with the original :) www.romanbaths.co.uk</span><br />
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</span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Bath, UK51.3810641 -2.359016699999983851.301778600000006 -2.5203781999999837 51.4603496 -2.1976551999999838tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-7924512786471109262019-04-30T03:45:00.003-07:002019-04-30T03:45:57.910-07:00santorini...10 dreamy things to do in 1 day<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Santorini was an island that I had long wanted to visit. My mother had dreamed of going there, and had made it a reality before she passed away. So, as we pulled up to the new port and climbed off of the boat, I was excited. </div>
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But, the excitement starts already long before your feet touch land. Basically the moment you catch sight of the white towns perched atop the long crater walls, the feelings of wonder and amazement take hold.</div>
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In order to break down the experience, first of all for myself, I made a list of the ten dreamiest things about my visit.</div>
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<h4>
Ten best things to do in Santorini in one day</h4>
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1) Visit Oia...it's a dreamy treat like no other. </div>
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The little village of Oiá, located directly above the new port of Santorini, or a 30-minute bus ride from Fira (Santorini's main town, located above the old port), is a white-washed maze of lovely dwellings, blue-domed churches, and cute shops, joined by narrow cobble-stoned lanes...with heart-stopping views around every corner.<br />
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2) Wander...but be respectful. Meander down from the main paths to get away from the crowds, but always be aware that people work and live here. Do not step onto houses or churches (lots of people actually do!) for some great insta pic...just don't.<br />
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3) Stop and take in the moments. There are too many peaceful, reflective spots...even among the tourists. Blend the chatter out and breathe the setting in.<br />
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Hundreds and hundreds of years of fishing tradition lie here within the rounded walls of the volcanic caldera. The symbiosis between rock and sea, and Santorini's prominent location on naval routes within the centre of the Aegean Sea, helped create this incredibly unique way of life.<br />
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4) Explore the narrow, winding lanes. <br />
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There are lots of visitors here, and with treasures like Santorini, Venice, Prague Old Town (to name a few very crowded, very pretty places) you must be patient, blend out the crowds, visit the popular spots early in the morning or late at night, and just enjoy. In Oiá, there are a host of interesting houses, artisan shops with jewellery and art, boutique hotels carved into the rock, and many different churches (more than 250 on the island!).<br />
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5) Duck into Atlantis Books...it's just the cutest bookstore, which also happens to have great books. <br />
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Located on Oiá's main pedestrian street this little shop is a booklover's delight. Climb down the steps into the cave-like rooms and explore. There is everything you could ever want...classics, local flair, history, poetry, fantasy. Such dreamy fun.<br />
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6) Keep wandering till you get to the less whitewashed, less expensive area <br />
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Much of my advice includes getting away from the crowds, so here's more: Wander to the very end of Oiá, which wraps around the tip of the island, and where you will find one of the old windmills (always a Greek treat). Here you will come across some dwellings which you might even be able to consider purchasing :) Personally, I think 'run down' has often the most character.<br />
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7) Stop for coffee...often...and just enjoy the view <br />
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Sitting down after lots of walking, especially up and down the hilliness of Oiá, is a must when there are views like this to enjoy with a latte.<br />
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8) Enjoy Greek tapas...fried goat cheese, chickpea dip, olives and so much more yummy-ness <br />
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We stopped in at Pelekanos, because of its great rating and fantastic view. The food was delicious local fare, not too pricey, and served on gorgeous stoneware. Order a few traditional appetisers to share and you will fill yourself up with mediterranean goodness.<br />
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9) Head to a Crazy Donkey in Fira, sit out on the terrace and enjoy a great brew <br />
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When you've bussed it back to Fira and wandered its bustling lanes, stop in at any of the restaurants serving Crazy Donkey to enjoy locally-brewed craft ales. At Dionysos, for example, there is a large covered terrace to hang out on if you need to beat the heat or wait for your ferry. The beer is hip hoppy kick-ass ale.<br />
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10) And last, but not least...the donkeys. Walk by them on your way down to the old port and say Hi...and then keep walking. God gave you 2 legs so use them.<br />
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Or, if you just can't walk then take a bus or the gondola depending on which port you are accessing.<br />
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Donkeys are a traditional form of transportation throughout the Greek Islands, like horses in North and South America, and many islands still use donkeys and mules to haul things, but seeing really heavy people ride these sweet things up or down just can't be good for the animals. But, let's face it, if no one used them they wouldn't exist....that's just a fact. I did hear that Santorini is thinking of putting in a weight limit and I would be all for that.<br />
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I spent quite a bit of time talking to this sweetest of all creatures, just to see how he's doing. He seemed fine and healthy, as did all of his mates (that I saw). It was a hot day, they had water and shelter, but were just hanging out on the steps, free to roam about till someone needed them.<br />
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Seriously, isn't this just the cutest donkey you've ever seen. <br />
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<i>If you go:</i><br />
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Try and stay for the night...I hear the sunset from Oiá is a once in a lifetime experience...and then send me a pic :)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1Santorini, Greece36.3931562 25.46150920000002336.1886847 25.138785700000025 36.5976277 25.784232700000022tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-75399450027945030732019-03-31T14:41:00.001-07:002019-04-06T11:14:38.201-07:00madeira...an island of fish, flowers and fado<h4>
Napoleon's last stop...the flower island</h4>
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Well-known, not only for being the birthplace of the world's best footballer, Cristiano Ronaldo, Funchal, the capital of the Portuguese island Madeira, has been an important historical stopover for explorers and revolutionists.<br />
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Located in the Atlantic Ocean off of the northwest coast of Africa, Madeira is a cluster of four little islands known for its wine, its blooms, sugar cane production, and family-oriented, hard-working fishing culture.<br />
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<h4>
Funchal's amazing colours...in the market and on the streets</h4>
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The Mercado dos Lavradores will entice you into its art-deco, 1930's-designed structure. Over two stories, including a huge fish hall, this market is so beautiful and interesting you will stay awhile.<br />
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Along with all sorts of exotic fruit and vegetables, fish and food, there are also booths with clothing, music, and leather accessories. A little village unto itself, where locals also come to get shoes repaired, blades sharpened, or to buy lottery tickets...the mercado is full of local flair.<br />
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As often is in a cool city, the areas which were once the dangerous, poor neighbourhoods are now the 'it' places to live and visit. In Funchal, these oldest streets are now vibrant, colourful lanes filled with lively restaurants and bars...<br />
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With painted doors and murals everywhere you look.<br />
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Wandering through Funchal's oldest street, Rua de Santa Maria, which runs parallel to the ocean, there are plenty of options to experience authentic Portuguese Fado. This melancholic music, which translated means 'fate' or 'destiny' is a moody and emotional combination of voice and guitar.<br />
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Madeira is also known for its immaculate network of hiking trails. These levadas are the irrigation canals built in the 16th century to supply water to the sugar cane producers. The over 2000 kms of levadas zig-zag and serpentine through the valleys up and down the island, making a hiking holiday here just perfect.<br />
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Some levadas are cut into hillsides or tunnelled through cliffs, but most of them offer a fairly consistent view of the wide blue ocean beyond.<br />
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<h4>
Camara de Lobos - A proud fishing tradition</h4>
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A short bus or taxi ride away from Funchal is the gorgeous little fishing village of Camara de Lobos. Made famous by Winston Churchill who stopped at this spot (see photo below) to set up his easel, needing to paint this cove immediately, Camara de Lobos enchanted me.<br />
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In amongst the small lanes spreading out from the port there is a tiny chapel which if you're not looking for it you will most likely miss. This is where traditionally the fishermen have come to pray before heading out into the wild unknown of the sea. It is quite possibly the most beautiful chapel, next to Francis of Assisi's own, that I have ever seen.<br />
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Said fishermen you will find out on the boardwalk playing cards or in the dark taverns watching TV.<br />
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I loved watching the fishermen work on their boats, or hanging out playing cards together. This craft of building and repairing these fisher boats has barely changed over the centuries. It is pure tradition...but unfortunately more and more difficult to make a living at.<br />
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<h4>
Monte - Traditional Wicker Toboggan Rides</h4>
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A gondola or taxi ride up from Funchal is the quaint village of Monte. Here, the villas are nestled into the steep volcanic hillside, surrounded by banana plantations. After visiting the Monte Palace, with its late 1800's exotic gardens and waterfalls, and the cathedral, the most exciting way back down (according to Ernest Hemingway anyways) is by Carreiro-driven wicker toboggan.<br />
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These super-cool Carreiros, dressed in regulated white with wicker hat, expertly guide the sleds down the steep 4 km roads with an average speed of 12 km/h.<br />
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The tradition began in the 1850's as an easy way for locals to get down the hill to Funchal. Now, it is a strictly-regulated tourist attraction, taking about 20 minutes...on the ride of your life.<br />
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But, before heading down to Funchal we made sure to see the exquisite pilgrimage cathedral of Our Lady of the Mountain (what a name!). Not only a visit worth because of its painted ceiling, it is also the final resting place of the last ruler of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Charles I of Austria, who died in Monte in exile.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte</td></tr>
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Built in 1741, this church has survived earthquakes and wild fires. It is a colourful, moving experience spending moments here. The painted wooden ceiling depicts religious scenes and artistic elements making you want to look up as much as towards the altar...and Mary.<br />
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<i>If you go:</i><br />
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-flying is tricky...go with Godspeed because the runway is one of the world's most, let's just say, interesting.<br />
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-take time on the island to walk the many trails, to hang out close to the fishermen and banana-growing locals<br />
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-no need to rent a car: walk or take a taxi...it is not expensive<br />
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-make sure to eat the black scabbard fish...delicious and unique...and drink wine :)Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-24226451589062773142019-02-24T09:01:00.001-07:002019-02-24T09:21:17.570-07:00stockholm's incredible underground<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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Stockholm lies on the eastern side of Sweden, on the Baltic Sea facing Finland and Estonia. Home to a beloved royal family, excellent baked goods, an obsession with coffee, incredible design and innovation, and a sea-faring heart, Stockholm obviously has lots to see above ground.<br />
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But, if you have a minute, let me show you Stockholm's awe-inspiring underground...an art and sculpture gallery like you've probably never seen before. At least I hadn't.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hloj9UfFtss/XG11zsHAj6I/AAAAAAAAIXk/zuWFXJSY5IgO99fqGxPnrqsqdR9nIhgUACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_5316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Hloj9UfFtss/XG11zsHAj6I/AAAAAAAAIXk/zuWFXJSY5IgO99fqGxPnrqsqdR9nIhgUACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_5316.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">T-Centralen</td></tr>
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I only made it to 7 art-filled stations in my 1.5 days in the city, but the rest are on my list. Usually I spend very little time in museums (or indoors at all) when I'm visiting a new city because I like to get the feel of a place by how the locals live. This is why, when I'm not walking, I take the subway (also much cheaper and faster than the tourist hop-on, hop-offs).<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solna Centrum</td></tr>
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Here I should add that in sea-faring cities (Venice, Hamburg also come to mind), travelling with a public transportation pass also gets you onto all of the commuter ferries and boats, so if you like to get on the water when exploring a new city like I do you can't beat going the way of locals.
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">#82 commuter line travelling to surrounding islands</td></tr>
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One of Stockholm's oldest stations, and one of its deepest, is Östermalmstorg, featuring sketches by then 77-year-old artist, Siri Derkert. Her life's work had centred around peace, the environment and women's rights, all of which are reflected on the station's walls.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Östermalmstorg</td></tr>
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Eight years later, in 1973, Tekniska Högskolan station opened, allowing easier access for students to the city's well-known technical university. The station celebrates scientific achievement and advancement, with my favourite aspects being the 5 regular polyhedra representing Plato's five elements. It is a truly stunning subway station.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-stVIUfXrjy0/XG111TgpRAI/AAAAAAAAIYA/yKJL0jTUeCwirxvN8wOhSOLMmHwRpo83gCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_5352.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-stVIUfXrjy0/XG111TgpRAI/AAAAAAAAIYA/yKJL0jTUeCwirxvN8wOhSOLMmHwRpo83gCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_5352.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Tekniska Högskolan</td></tr>
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When I read about Odenplan's station I knew that I needed to see it. The artist's inspiration touched me. Opened in 2017, with 400 metres of LED lighting, David Svensson's "life line" depicts the electromagnetic waves of his son's EKG as he was being born. Needless to say, this is not a dark station.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0A9UEMG7m3U/XG112cmtZlI/AAAAAAAAIYQ/_xevODU-g7gZ9uHDNDtgIlgna4d0f3e9ACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_5400.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1512" data-original-width="1512" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-0A9UEMG7m3U/XG112cmtZlI/AAAAAAAAIYQ/_xevODU-g7gZ9uHDNDtgIlgna4d0f3e9ACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_5400.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Odenplan</td></tr>
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The colourful rainbows and sky blues remind the busy commuter that the sky is not far above in Stockholm's first cave station, Stadion, built in 1973. If you want a photo without people you'll need to get there early as it's popular with photographers, along with quite a few of the other stations.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_FnzR6Nk2UA/XG112gHx-7I/AAAAAAAAIYU/M77Kp__EeDQbdiR_Ty9aqFw2M13wGfvKACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_E5300.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1200" data-original-width="1600" height="480" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_FnzR6Nk2UA/XG112gHx-7I/AAAAAAAAIYU/M77Kp__EeDQbdiR_Ty9aqFw2M13wGfvKACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_E5300.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Stadion</td></tr>
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Kungsträdgarden is an eyeful of everything imaginable - sculptures, mosaic, gargoyles, floral and fauna. The station lies directly underneath the former Makalös Palace which burned down in 1825, leaving just the French gardens and a very popular destination for locals: the station's namesake.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l7nkHCx50Sk/XG115xz_W8I/AAAAAAAAIZA/OM1Hg2XiupkOhepX2GYvVSoayXWALZu6wCEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_E5445.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-l7nkHCx50Sk/XG115xz_W8I/AAAAAAAAIZA/OM1Hg2XiupkOhepX2GYvVSoayXWALZu6wCEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_E5445.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kungsträdgarden</td></tr>
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The station features replicas of the statues from the former palace's gardens, and bids homage to the history of life above.<br />
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The deep red of Solna Centrum's setting sun above the forests of Sweden is a sight to behold. The station was built in 1975 but much of the added artwork depicting central political themes of the area, such as deforestation and the depopulation of rural areas were added long after the reds and greens.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bBjPfX9OBGE/XG113eBAkkI/AAAAAAAAIZU/XejsN7vFuCczdqfi06i4cIYJMlAH3HXlwCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_E5406.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-bBjPfX9OBGE/XG113eBAkkI/AAAAAAAAIZU/XejsN7vFuCczdqfi06i4cIYJMlAH3HXlwCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_E5406.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Solna Centrum</td></tr>
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And my Favourite Station Award goes to T-Centralen. The first station to feature art, and the hub of Stockholm's underground system, the artwork's aim was to bring calm and a moment to pause for the busy folk traveling to and from work and school. The floral and leaf motifs in peaceful hues of blue do their trick, in my opinion.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">T-Centralen</td></tr>
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Any short or long tour in Stockholm would not be complete without one (or two) stops for fika. A beloved break involving coffee and baked goods is a must for the Nordic hygge way of life, and a practice I wholeheartedly can get behind. Try the Kardemumma-snurra when you're in town. I have no idea what it's name means but it's seriously delish.<br />
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And enjoy the candles which are lit in all cafes and restaurants during the day...just adding to the hygge feeling of cozy, comfortable and communal.<br />
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<i>If you go:</i><br />
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-don't bring cash. Many places don't even accept cash. Everyone uses a debit or credit card.<br />
-buy a 24 hour public transit pass (converts to about 13€, $15) and is much more cost-effective than a tourist bus or boat. Get on the water, to the islands with the commuter ferries included in the transit pass.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com6Stockholm, Sweden59.329323499999987 18.06858080000006359.07010549999999 17.423133800000063 59.588541499999984 18.714027800000064tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-30173449367744453982019-01-31T14:50:00.000-07:002019-02-02T09:54:05.651-07:00canmore, alberta...rocky mountains, blue skies, and oh so many dogsWe realize pretty quickly that these dogs are family. They are special. But, that doesn't mean that they're off limits. We are encouraged to get to know our sled dogs. We are cautioned to give dogs space who appear shy or unsure, and be affectionate with those pups who want some. Get to know them like you would get to know a person, we're told. That they were about to drag my ass through the mountains was not lost on me, and to tell you the truth, I was already feeling a bit guilty about all of that Christmas baking.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cashew</td></tr>
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Even before stepping out onto the snow-covered lakeshore, greeted by the cold, awesome mountain air, I had done quite a bit of reading into this company (Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours) and their family members (the 4-leggeds). I was impressed by their attention to detail, to educating the public (me), and most of all, to making it clear how important their family members are to their business. This was the reason I was here, with these pups, now...<br />
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We were going to spend a couple of hours, first in instruction, then each pair would take turns driving the sled (yikes!), and then at the end, debriefing around a campfire by the lake. Sound perfect? Spoiler alert: it kinda was.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Me and my lead dogs, Rebel and Bowie</td></tr>
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Sled dogs are kind of amazing. Going back at least to 2000 BC huskies have been used to haul goods and people in the far north. But, even here in Canmore, giving visitors a ride like no other, these dogs are top winter athletes. And their care, for this exact reason, is a very precise operation.<br />
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In the winter months, the dogs are given what is essentially bison kibble soup. Yum. Basically, to ensure that the dogs are drinking their 3+ litres of water a day their food is given with warm water so that they get all of their liquids. They are fed 4 times a day, even on the trail between tours.<br />
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So, while our dogs were eating lunch, we were encouraged to walk among them and pet those who wanted to be pet, and to take photos...of course.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Megan, our guide, giving instructions</td></tr>
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Then, Megan, our very competent guide, ran us through very thorough instructions. After she was done even I was convinced that I could maybe do this. She taught us the 4 major commands (Hike! Eeeeaaasyyyy! On-by! Whoaaaaa) that the dogs respond to (and they did!) and showed us exactly how to steer the sled. What's the most important thing, you ask? Don't let go of the sled!!<br />
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After the instructions we were assigned our sleds, and the passengers for the first half were bundled into the sleds. My brother, who had gone on a tour with Snowy Owl a couple of years before, gave me a great tip: drive the dogs on the second half, when they're a bit more tired, then you won't have to run along as fast on the uphill parts. So, this is me, in the sled for the first half - bf drove first :)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bowie</td></tr>
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I wish I could describe accurately the noise the dogs were making, in excitement, as they knew we were getting ready to head out onto the trail. There was howling and barking and yelping...and it was awesome. They seriously sounded happy.<br />
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One important thing which Snowy Owl makes clear in the emails that come in the days before your tour: dress warmly. But, for those tourists/visitors who might not be quite prepared for winter in the Canadian Rockies, Snowy Owl has a handy rental area where you can load up on Sorels, and mitts, toques and jackets. Personally, I think this is quite the smart service on their part. But, I'm an Alberta girl so I made sure by German bf was dressed appropriately, and we were fine in the -7 C temperature. Only the dogs thought it was too warm!<br />
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The scenery as we slid through the forest was glorious. Mountains peaked through the trees as we ran the trails behind Spray Lakes, above Canmore. There was a light wind, joining blue skies and sunshine. We had totally lucked out with the weather!<br />
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Megan had prepared us for the looks of incredulity from our hounds when we didn't help them on the uphill parts. Sure enough, if the driver wasn't getting off of the runners to help the sled uphill, the dogs would shoot off a look back as a reminder. Needless to say, my bf and I aren't exactly the smallest people so our dogs were basically giving us the 'look' even when we were standing still. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna</td></tr>
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Snowy Owl's pack is made up of 180 working pets, as they describe on their fascinating website. The dogs' photos are on the site, each with their names, like an online hall of fame. This family-run business is a self-described "dog first" company, and the four-legged employees seem very well cared for. They are Siberian Huskies, Malamutes, and Canadian Eskimo Dogs (the oldest indigenous dog breed in North America - did you know that? I didn't). <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bear</td></tr>
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Snowy Owl breeds most of their sled dogs, but take care only to 'produce' the number of dogs they actually need, alongwith buying or rescuing 'new' dogs when the situation arises. They also have a very careful and intense adoption program for their beloved retired sled dogs. If I lived in Alberta I would absolutely be signing up to be considered!<br />
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The sled dog pairings are thoughfully considered. Partners in the team need to actually like each other...along with being strong and healthy of course. One of our pairings, it was explained to us, had a big intact male who ran better as long as his partner was a female...it motivated him more. Dogs will be dogs, just like boys will be boys.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo credit: Boris - bbbphoto (Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours)</td></tr>
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Somewhere around the halfway point, we switched and it was my turn to drive. My fears that the sled would be going so insanely fast that I would fly off were not founded. The team was fun to drive! I loved calling out the commands and cheering on the pups, and they were really great. The scenery was also spectacular.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Anna and her buddy taking a well-deserved break</td></tr>
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The dogs have a detailed work and play schedule, with time off and daily free-run time so that they can socialize and just be. Once we returned to the trail head some of the pups took a load off and relaxed. As I mentioned, especially for the Malamutes, the temperatures were a bit warm for the dogs, who prefer -10. <br />
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Then the two-leggeds were guided to a bonfire beside the lake. Megan handed out steaming apple cider and homemade cookies. It was really a wonderful end to a truly fun experience. <br />
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I would highly recommend taking in a sled dog tour with Snowy Owl if you're in the Banff/Canmore/Calgary area. Afterwards, stop in at Half Hitch Brewery for super-delish mac'n cheese or burnt ends brisket...and a pint. Canmore is a cute mountain town - the perfect place to park after some good ol' outdoor activity.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Mac 'n Cheese at Half Hitch, Canmore - on Main Street</td></tr>
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And, if you are needing to warm up, unlike a Malamute, my favourite place to steam is in Banff's Upper Hot Springs, which I've been soaking in apres ski or hike ever since I was a kid. On this sled dog day the snow fell in the evening hours as we sat in the hot pool among pines and peaks. Just bliss. I can't wait to go back...to the dogs, the Rockies, and home!<br />
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If you go:<br />
<br />
Snowy Owl Sled Dog Tours - book ahead, dress warm, have fun! www.snowyowltours.com<br />
Travel Alberta for things to do - www.travelalberta.com<br />
Banff Upper Hot Springs - www.hotsprings.ca<br />
<br />
From Calgary International Airport to Canmore - 120 kms, just over an hour west on the #1Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2Canmore, Alberta, Kanada51.0892428 -115.3597128999999850.9295878 -115.68243639999997 51.2488978 -115.03698939999998tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-29599210124338130782018-12-23T06:11:00.001-07:002019-12-08T14:54:02.121-07:00a great reason to party...friends, fantasy, a finite lifeThis weekend I was again reminded how short life can be...how heartbreakingly sad. I feel a combination of incredible despair for friends of mine, but at the same time a heart full of warmth because my home was filled with wonderful lovely people on Friday night. It was a good reason to party...<br />
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advent, the anniversary of my time living in Germany, and the acknowledgement of older and new souls who have enriched, enveloped and energized my time in this new place.<br />
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My dad opened the world of travel up for me, but it was my mother who showed me the bliss of a packed kitchen full of friends, a table full of simple, tasty food, and memories made on a cozy (often wine-fueled), laughter-rich evening of just being together. <br />
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I love throwing a party...and in the weeks before Christmas is my all-time favourite time for one! The first thing I make sure to have is a pot of mulled wine on the stove. The scent of cloves, cinnamon, oranges blending with red wine and a hint of sugar, wafting through the hallways to greet guests just makes me happy (and them too hopefully).<br />
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Now, I am not a great cook, that's for sure. Honestly, I'm quite lazy, but I do love planning what kind of simple, good food I can make, which drinks to have on offer, and how I will decorate so that people feel welcome and cozy. I mean, is there anything more cozy than a basket full of baguette and platters of Italian cheese and salamis?<br />
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It doesn't always work out, but I try to make sure that there is more than enough, which is something I
also have from my mom. My brother and I loved her parties because there
would always be days of leftovers afterwards. <br />
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For this year's advent party, I had chosen an Italian theme because....well, why not? There is a wonderful little Italian supermarket close to where I work. On one evening last week I went in to pick up Italian sausages, Salsiccia, along with great big slabs of Pecorino and Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto and Truffle Salami. A bonus of party-throwing in Germany is that food and drink is much less expensive than in Canada.<br />
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This is an easy, very tasty fingerfood recipe for the slow cooker...a great contraption for serving warm food over a few hours:<br />
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Italian Sausage with Peppers & Onions<br />
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Cut sausages in half, brown in oil on all sides, remove from saucepan<br />
Add sliced bell peppers, garlic and onions and cook for a few minutes<br />
Transfer everything to the slow cooker, add a can of diced tomatoes, salt and pepper<br />
Cook on low for 5 hours<br />
Keep in the slow cooker and let guests help themselves<br />
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Serve with mini ciabatta buns toasted in the oven, and napkins<br />
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Then I basically filled every available surface with dips, crackers, tartellettes, mini quiche, olives, Grissini, and other such simple good things, so that guests can continuously nibble and munch to their hearts content.<br />
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One thing I just learned is that drink options are very much appreciated...two types of beer, two kinds of red wine, and of course, non-alcoholic beverages are important. Going with the Italian theme, I bought Italian sodas when I saw them on sale...but mostly I just found them pretty.<br />
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There is a great German word, which is wished upon others a lot during the
advent weeks...that Christmastime be 'besinnlich'. The best translation
is a mashup of 'tranquil' and 'comtemplative'.<br />
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I won't be home for Christmas this year, but I incorporated some items from my mother (who passed away 11 years ago) into my decorating plans, to bring the feeling of 'home' home. Pine branches filled her handpainted milkcans, large and small, stuffed into pails and spread out on windowsills. Simple, smelly, sublime.<br />
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Sometimes there are special treats that arrive hand delivered, such as homemade desserts made by a friend, or a yummy gin from a special place picked out just for yours truly. <br />
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When the last guests have left, I love to quietly clean up, even in the wee hours. It's peaceful work...having time to reflect on the conversations, the catching up, the stories...and being thankful. <br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-70242464996575960032018-11-30T12:49:00.001-07:002019-04-30T03:49:12.154-07:00mykonos & delos...not just a fool's paradise<h4>
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Mykonos...the perfect isle</h3>
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If you like nightlife, boutique shopping, and gorgeous white-washed houses, then the Town of Mykonos should be on your bucket list.<br />
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But I loved Mykonos because of its disorienting, car-free, narrow lanes, (so narrow that two tourists passing in the night need to yield to each other), its cubed houses draped in blooms, and its old fishing houses standing proudly in the sea, being rhythmically caressed (hammered?) by the waves.<br />
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From the port of Mykonos, up on a hill towards the right, you will see swarms of tourists among a row of antique windmills (the famous Káto Mili). But, if you want a windmill to yourself I suggest venturing in the other direction, all the way through town and up the other hill, to Mirador, a run-down windmill, providing a gorgeous view of the town and sea below...it's an isolated gem in my opinion.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Church of Paraportiani</td></tr>
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One of the most photographed churches in the world is the Church of Paraportiani, situated very close the sea's edge, in the oldest part of Mykonos Town. Stemming out of the 1400's, it consists of 5 seperate churches which have been joined together...though the entire building seems relatively small by European standards. The church's whiteness against the blue of sky and sea is just plum beautiful.<br />
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Wandering through the old Kástro neigbourhood you will stop every 5 seconds to take a photo (I bet ya!). What fascinated me was thinking about how this place used to be, before the mega party scene and Louis Vuitton. Apparently, this was a humble, out-of-the-way fishing village, whose confusing, narrow lanes bewildered the few pirates who actually made land here.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">St. Nikolas Greek Orthodox Church</td></tr>
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Many of the oldest houses in Alefkandra, or Little Venice, just steps from Kastro, are now hip, not-inexpensive taverns, where we also took a break, had a beer, and watched the waves leap onto the terraces and startle the tourists.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">View of Káto Mili from a Little Venice tavern</td></tr>
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Mykonos has incredible beaches, but we preferred to explore the town and take in the interesting architecture, the blooms, the coloured balconies, and the narrow lanes.<br />
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As you leave Mykonos Town for one of the other islands, as we did to head to Delos for the morning, you will no doubt stop to admire the small Agios Nikolaos Church at the Old Port. Amid bobbing (or retired), wooden fishing boats called 'kaiki', the blue dome and cross will be a beacon of Greece for you...a point of home whenever you get lost meandering through the labyrinthian alleyways of Mykonos.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Agios Nikolaos Church by the Old Port</td></tr>
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Delos...the sacred isle </h3>
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One of the absolute highlights of my Greek Isle trip, and which I was so excited about, was Delos. A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the birthplace of Apollo and Artemis (although that might have been just a great marketing ploy back in the pre-Roman days, according to our tourguide), and one of the best preserved sites of ancient Greek civilisation.<br />
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From Mykonos' Old Port it's just a short ferry ride, and makes an easy, unforgettable half-day experience. Delos has been an uninhabited island for centuries, because of its sacredness. There are only a few guards living on the island with their families. Interestingly, our tour guide was one of the archeologists who lived and excavated the island decades ago. She spoke with such a passion for the history of this place that is was worth every penny of the tour price.<br />
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Delos has a very long and complicated history. It has changed hands many times since the first indications of civilisation in the 3rd millenium BC. Already before the 8th century BC someone had deemed it the birthplace of Zeus and Leto's twin children, Apollo and Artemis. Legend has it that Hera, Zeus's wife, shunned Leto from giving birth on any land mass and therefore Delos, as being not attached to the ocean floor, was the only place Leto could find to deliver the twins.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Terrace of the Lions</td></tr>
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It has been almost always a religious pilgrammage destination, at times the largest slave trader, was the site of numerous brutal Athenian purifications, and after 146 BC was Greece's most important trading centre, with over 30 000 inhabitants.<br />
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The magnificent Terrace of the Lions (600 BC), whose original statues are in the island's museum, stand watch along the Sacred Way. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">House of Dionysus</td></tr>
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From the ancient port, the right-hand side of the excavated town comprises the residential quarter. One of the incredible homes is that of a 2nd century, wealthy family whose courtyard is lined with a mosaic floor depicting Dionysus riding a panther...an amazing piece of art to see.<br />
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There are too many impressive sites and stories to explain here, but one aspect of walking in these ancient footsteps was coming across the most beautiful headless statues, mostly in former homes of the well-to-do. Apparently, headless statues were often built with fairly generic, toga-draped bodies for the commissioned heads of heros or well-known people or just plain-old rich folk to rest atop of...and for some reason I found them all very beautiful.<br />
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<i>Delos, if you go:</i></div>
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- Book ferry tickets online, or for the same price at the old port of Mykonos Town.</div>
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- I highly recommend a guided tour of Delos (ferry and entrance fee are included) because of the many interesting stories of individual families who lived there, the complex history, the ancient symbols and carvings which are pointed out which you would surely miss, and of course, the mythology of the many temples.</div>
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- Be wary of snakes when walking around Delos on your own. I wanted to trek up to the Temple of Artemis but the tourguide mentioned the snakes and I decided against it....went into the museum instead.</div>
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- Bring water and food along. There is one cafeteria on the island, by the museum, which isn't cheap...of course.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1Mykonos, Mikonos, Griechenland37.4467354 25.32888449999995837.2449989 25.00616099999996 37.648471900000004 25.651607999999957tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-19290182246542102292018-10-31T11:36:00.000-07:002018-11-07T10:48:50.480-07:00prague + bratislava = 100 years of peaceful protest<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One hundred years ago this month, Czechoslovakia was born. Prague and Bratislava, two incredible cities at the heart of the country, and the centres of steady, strong, peaceful voices.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Town - Bratislava</td></tr>
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Over the past month, citizens of the Czech Republic and
Slovakia have been celebrating the 100 year anniversary of Czechoslovakia. You
might think this odd considering the country split on January 1st, 1993, but actually it’s anything
but. Slovaks and Czechs experienced what Gwyneth might call, a ‚conscious
uncoupling‘, or what others have called ‚a velvet divorce‘.<br />
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Either way, the stories of
these two states, their marriage, life together, and subsequent divorce, has
inspired me on my several visits to both Bratislava and Prague. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Charles Bridge, Prague</td></tr>
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In this day and age, or really just in this past month, I feel like we (the global collective = we) can learn a lot from the examples of Czechs and Slovaks. From what I have gathered speaking to locals in both cities, even amidst significant differences between the cultures and the states, from the beginning, or even before the beginning, they have focused for the most part on their similarities, working together, living harmoniously, and splitting peacefully.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A wedding - Bratislava</td></tr>
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What has intrigued me most of all
are the tales of courageous, yet non-violent, protest against some of the most
horrific events in modern history. In my opinion, these are the role models we
should be learning from.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Graffiti in Prague...tell me everything</td></tr>
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Of course, I’m not suggesting that all Czechoslovakians were angels for 100 years, nor that there weren’t problems. But, one notable example is that the country was the only one in Europe to seperate without bloodshed after the fall of communism in 1989.<br />
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Some say the relationship between Slovaks and Czechs is something akin to
siblings, who eventually decided to live in seperate houses, but in the same neigbourhood,
sharing some vital industries and traditions, and basically understanding and
respecting each other.
This is surely a simplified descripition of their present relationship...and maybe I'm completely wrong.<br />
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But, what about the 100 years
of togetherness? Here is where one truly gets to know the character of this
particular family, in my opinion. From all I've heard and read, during the century Czechoslovakians responded and revolted, gathered together, took a stand, spoke out against tyranny, injustice, inequality...with courage and determination and non-violence. <br />
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In 1918, Czechs and Slovaks decided to band together to
create their own state after the Austro-Hungarian Empire crumbled.
Czechoslavia was formed and what followed was almost two decades of a strong, thriving
democracy.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Primate's Palace - Bratislava</td></tr>
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Possibly there are cues as to what provided the people of
Czechoslovakia with the foothold necessary to persevere with peaceful dissidence,
patient protest, and solidarity through the decades of darkness, which like a burdensome black cloak would soon cover them.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Bratislava</td></tr>
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The Arts.<br />
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Jazz took root in the the 20’s and 30’s and continued
clandestinely throughout the Nazi regime. Even later, during communism, jazz
musicians and their fans persevered to keep the music alive and playing.<br />
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One incredible story is of Bedrich Weiss, a Czech-Jewish musician who, even
while imprisoned in the Terezin Concentration Camp, created the Weiss Quintet
and played in the camp’s cafeteria. Many jazz and, possibly surprising, dixieland bands
which carried on during the difficult communist years, such as the Jazz
Fiddlers, are still going strong in Prague today.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">National House of Vinohrady Concert Hall - Prague</td></tr>
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Literature, idealistic prose, satirical plays and lyrical
poetry flourished in the teen-age years of Czechoslovakia. Even after WWII, many writers managed to gain international attention throughout the '50's and '60's, revered for their honest and dramatic stories.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Clementinum Library - Prague</td></tr>
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Milan Kundera...a name most of us know. Kundera was a prominent member of
the non-violent Prague Spring of 1968, and wrote „The Unbearable Lightness of Being“ in homage to this turbulent
time. Throughout the uprising he encouraged his fellow citizens to remain calm, predicting that the consequences of the spring will be felt in the Prague Autumn. Little did he know that it would take just a wee bit longer.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Town Square (Staromestske Namesti) - Pragu</td></tr>
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Václav Havel. Did you know that Havel was a Czech
playwright, who together with Kundera, was part of the group who
initiated the Prague Spring...this fleeting moment of liberalization
in the country? The group, whose goal was to reform the communist party, to
guarantee civil rights and move towards democracy,<span style="mso-spacerun: yes;"> </span>was violently quashed by the Soviet army. Havel
remained in the country, was imprisoned repeatedly, persevered with his
beliefs, and eventually became interim president of Czechoslovakia after the
peaceful ‚Velvet Revolution‘ in 1989.<br />
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As the country then split a few years later, which Havel was opposed to, he was elected for two consecutive
terms as the Czech Republic’s president. Now, he is writing again.<br />
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Kundera, meanwhile, had fled to France in the mid-70’s after
his books were banned and he was kicked out of the party for a second time. He
was stripped of citizenship, and since then has demanded to be known as a
French writer, and insists his books be deemed French literature. He’s a fascinating man,
without a doubt.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Old Town - Bratislava</td></tr>
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Taking to the Streets...a few poignant examples of peaceful revolt:</div>
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<b>Prague Spring (1968)</b> - Alexander Dubcek, the so-called leader of the Prague Spring, wanted a peaceful reform of the communist party.."'socialism with a human face," he proclaimed. When the Soviet tanks finally rolled into Czechoslovakia, to quash a months-long movement towards liberalization and an end to censorshop, the military received no resistance. Photos circulated around the world of peaceful protestors argueing their point with tank commanders.</div>
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<b>Candle Revolution (1988)</b> - An underground clergy movement, which had begun in the 1950's, led to the first major step towards bringing down the communist regime. This was the Candle Revolution in Bratislava in March 1988. The mass demonstration was organized by Catholic dissident groups, and helped by the Vatican. Over 10 000 people took to the streets, with only candles in their hands, until the police began attacking the protesters with water cannons, batons and sticks.<br />
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<b>Velvet (or 'Gentle') Revolution (1989)</b> - A series of demostrations in November 1989, including a massive 2-hour strike where every citizen in Czechoslovakia stopped working (can you imagine the impact?), which led to the end of 41 years of communist rule. 500 000 people took to the streets for weeks of non-violent protests...eventually they couldn't be ignored any longer. 500 000 people!<br />
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I don't want to sugar-coat history, not at all, but there are some good examples of what the power of good can do. People can take a stand and make changes, without weapons. The first is definitely to go and vote....wherever you are. If you live in a country where you can vote, then do it. Don't take it for granted. Second, believe that you can make a difference. If enough people believe it, then eventually, with determination and perseverance change can sometimes be made.<br />
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In the Czech Republic, Slovakia and many other countries throughout Europe, and into the Americas, there is a current way of populism threatening to destroy the belief of 'together is better'. I'm not sure why, but I think it is the undercurrent feeling of fear leading the way, while a clever few stir the pot in their quest for power. Unfortunately, it works.<br />
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I hope that we (all of us) can be inspired by peaceful, united actions that brought change in the past...and that we will be motivated to act. Let's do it. And if all else fails, travel and meet people from other countries, hear their stories and learn from them. What I know for sure...this inspires me.<br />
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<i>If you go:</i><br />
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Bratislava - an easy 45-minute trip by car from Vienna's Schwechat Intl. Airport. Take a Danube Cruise from Vienna to Budapest and stop in Bratislava, which is half-way between both cities. It's a pretty, but small, city with great food and drink.<br />
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Prague - an easy road trip from Munich, with most of the city easy to discover by tram or subway. Great beer, lots of tourists, and good food which is still less expensive than the countries to the west. If you want to photograph the Charles Bridge, do it early in the morning...you won't regret it. Early = less people :)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">If you go...try trdelník!</td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-64333386013611900772018-08-31T13:58:00.001-07:002018-10-31T08:31:19.778-07:00two days in nancy, france...so francais, so lovely<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">So
this just might happen to be a post about doors...and windows. Sorry, I
can’t help it. Nancy, France has surprised me. It has shop windows overflowing with pastries, pain de chocolat, and éclairs. Along with pastel-coloured shutters adorning every house window, wandering the old town streets here is trés wonderful. </span><br />
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<span style="font-family: inherit;">Oh, and there's this amazing fountain.</span></div>
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The French city of Nancy lies just 2.5 hours from Frankfurt, and is a fairly pleasant train ride from Paris. Its town centre is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and rumour has it that Place Stanislas, which is home to buildings much more palace than city hall, is the most beautiful square in Europe. </div>
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I'm not sure if that's true, or if the French have just claimed that, because well, they're French and it's probably true. Once I've visited all European town squares I'll let y'all know :).</div>
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What is interesting is that Stanislas was the King of Poland, but Duke of Upper Lorraine, and he did much to better the lives of the citizens of Nancy at the time. He forged cultural and economic growth, fed the poor, and gave houses to those who had through misfortune lost everything.</div>
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This summer, the city put on an incredible light show every evening, creating magnificently vivid scenes detailing episodes from the past centuries. The scenes played out on the 4 major town square buildings, with the prominent focus on city hall. Both nights that we stayed in the city we experienced the Spectacle son et Lumière in Place Stanislas...it was just that incredible.</div>
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The Spectacle highlighted the industrial revolution, the renaissance, Nancy's surrounding wine and agricultural landscape, its schools, music and cultural heritage...all set to an inspiring and uplifting soundtrack.</div>
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Nancy is not a huge city, about a half million people, but it is an old one, dating back to 800 BC. Like most other well-placed European cities, this one has also gone through many soul-altering evolutions, sometimes due to war, often due to natural occurrences. Oh, who are we kidding? Pretty much all destruction and change was due to war, including when Nancy was set on fire in 1218, at the end of the War of Succession of Champagne.<br />
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I came to Nancy to experience more French towns, culture and cuisine, and Nancy was the perfect choice. Patisseries on every corner, much top-rated, but not top-priced local cuisine, and fascinating history made the two-day visit well worth the trip.</div>
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Since the late 19th century, Nancy has been a centre of art and architecture, giving Paris a run for her money at times. Around that time a group of artists and architects created the 'École de Nancy' and their Art Nouveau influences can still be felt while wandering many sidewalks.<br />
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What I just couldn't get enough of were the shuttered windows, neatly painted in soft hues, complimenting the buildings in all their variations of taupe. I'm not really sure if they are only decorative or if they have an actual purpose, but I don't really care. They are super cute.<br />
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Nancy also has an wonderful array of gardens, some centuries old. One of the cities oldest botanical gardens, now named Jardin Godron, used to house numerous collections vital to the Royal College of Medicine. Now, it displays vibrant horticultural specimens in long distinguished rows, making it easy and interesting to walk amongst and just enjoy.<br />
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The Parque de la Pépinière, just around the corner from Place Stanislas, is huge. There's a small concert bowl, outdoor dancing lessons, an assortment of peacocks ambling about, an intimate rose garden, a statue by Rodin, fields and fields of open green space to play or lay...and there's the most beautiful art niveau pergola which I have ever seen. I only took about 25 photos of it.<br />
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What you should really do in Nancy is eat. I was treated to an incredible birthday dinner at C' Fred, an intimate, simply decorated restaurant just off the main drag. It boasts a seasonally fixed menu for 34€, with 3 choices for starter, entrée and dessert. Dishes such as, Terrine de foie gras au chocolat to start with, then Pot au feu de filets de boeuf à la truffe de Meuse or Cuisse de canard confite aigret doux. There is almost nothing more delicious...<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">C' Fred...plain excellent!</td></tr>
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except for their dessert. I had to have the Fondant chocolat glace café. The warm chocolate insides melted my cold hardened heart and I could ease into the new year of my life a bit more content. Thank you C' Fred!<br />
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I would be remiss not to include C' Fred's excellent wine offerings. We indulged in a bottle of the Pezenas Madame du Parc from the south of France. I had never heard of it before, but oh was it delish. Apparently it's something special.<br />
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And since I don't have the warm chocolate cake anymore to warm my heart, I will leave you with a nighttime photo of my favourite fountain, which almost does the same for me...and I hope for you.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Nancy, France48.692054 6.184416999999939448.6501245 6.1037359999999392 48.7339835 6.26509799999994tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-26016547592200223732018-07-31T11:51:00.000-07:002018-09-30T07:30:16.993-07:00an enchanted place...melk abbey, austria<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
There is a place upon a hill overlooking the Danube, just a stone's throw from Vienna, which as soon as I stepped foot upon its grounds it held my breath.</div>
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"Ora et Labora et Lege" - Pray, Work, Learn.</div>
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Melk Abbey stands guard at the entrance of Austria's enchanting Wachau region, an area dotted with cathedrals and steep vineyards, glistening with elegance and fascinating history. This Benedictine Abbey, which surely is one of the most beautiful in the world, is home to two of my now-favourite buildings...a library like no other, and a garden pavillion out of a fairytale. Take a look...</div>
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j3CwvN9uEkg/W2Cm6SDDvzI/AAAAAAAAHf4/NxMz0eAqwC4ShAnSaWqPJB9zHQ-K8bH3ACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_1662.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-j3CwvN9uEkg/W2Cm6SDDvzI/AAAAAAAAHf4/NxMz0eAqwC4ShAnSaWqPJB9zHQ-K8bH3ACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_1662.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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But first, as you enter the Abbey's imposing inner square, a series of modern murals representing the four virtues (wisdom, justice, temperance, and fortitude) will catch your eye almost immediately, juxtaposed against the Abbey's Baroque facade.<br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hjzs19BkVNI/W2Cm7aiEowI/AAAAAAAAHeA/DdFEHwKVEykDo5wJAvTgsilY56guNrqiQCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1674.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-hjzs19BkVNI/W2Cm7aiEowI/AAAAAAAAHeA/DdFEHwKVEykDo5wJAvTgsilY56guNrqiQCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1674.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Abbey itself dates back to 1089 when a group of Benedictine monks were gifted a castle by Leopold II of Austria. This explains in part the opulence of the home of such a simple people. What the monks did with their generous gift was to immediately put it to good work, creating a monastic school and library, both of which are still in existence today and continue to be renowned institutions.<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KcsgxZB_9Z4/W2Cm6rsO2lI/AAAAAAAAHfo/akczj9MSGcgBYgbCA95Dmx92TPe13F8OACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_1673.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-KcsgxZB_9Z4/W2Cm6rsO2lI/AAAAAAAAHfo/akczj9MSGcgBYgbCA95Dmx92TPe13F8OACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_1673.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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Many of the Baroque additions and renovations were undertaken between 1702 and 1736, but because of the Abbey's international reputation for education and its well-known extensive collection of manuscripts, the buildings were spared from countless wars, confiscations and conflicts in the centuries which have since followed. <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ka8WmPV3ino/W2Cm69dN_5I/AAAAAAAAHd8/dLVyInHTzlgGHq2TcGaiWkF7fiql5zxpACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1671.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-ka8WmPV3ino/W2Cm69dN_5I/AAAAAAAAHd8/dLVyInHTzlgGHq2TcGaiWkF7fiql5zxpACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1671.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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I highly recommend taking a guided tour when you visit because of the volume of interesting stories and historical information that you will hear. It costs 13€/adult and includes the Abbey church, library and gorgeous marble hall...all worth the price.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The staircase leading up to the 196 m long Kaisersall (Imperial Hall)</td></tr>
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I love libraries...always have. Some of my earliest happy memories are sitting at the feet of my elementary school librarian and listening to her read to us. So, whenever I visit a new place, I try to pop into a library. I especially love the smell of old books...the well-worn covers, the musty pages filled with tales and wisdom, and the millions of fingerprints from long-gone souls. For some reason, this all inspires me to no end.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">"Pray, work, learn" - the highly regarded Abbey library</td></tr>
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The Abbey library does not disappoint. I snuck a couple of unflashed photos because I absolutely wanted to be able to remember these rooms. Over the centuries, the library has amassed a collection of 100,000 books and manuscripts, including 750 printed before 1500 AD!<br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v8kkPZkTwU0/W2KjjMOGhTI/AAAAAAAAHhY/IgAVdQIaxicmVC5ijDeO0sXmyUBdYOBkACEwYBhgL/s1600/IMG_8550.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1200" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-v8kkPZkTwU0/W2KjjMOGhTI/AAAAAAAAHhY/IgAVdQIaxicmVC5ijDeO0sXmyUBdYOBkACEwYBhgL/s640/IMG_8550.JPG" width="480" /></a></div>
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The Abbey, especially the library, was the centre of the 'Melk Reform Movement' in the 15th century, a sort of counter reformation building on Jesuit teachings. The monks held the library in such high regard, second only to the church, that they commissioned Paul Troger to paint the incredible ceiling fresco. The centrepiece of the painting is a female representation of faith, surrounded by four groups of angels again depicting the virtues of wisdom, temperance, fortitude and justice.<br />
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I have to confess, one of the details which enchants me most about castles and historical rooms, such as libraries, is the almost certain occurance of stumbling upon a tiny door. Okay, 'tiny' might not be the right word, and I'm jumping the gun if I make an 'Alice in Wonderland' comparison, but the small, often hidden or unnoticeable doors secretively blending into a wall of books or nestled into the floorboards fill me with a whimsical, fairytale-y feeling.</div>
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This particular door seen above had, as I found out during the tour, an interesting but unfortunately, fairly boring purpose. On the other side of it is a very large ceramic stove for heating the inner room. These little doors, which almost every room in the Abbey has, allowed the house staff to fill the stove with wood from the outside hallway without bothering (and dirtying) the room's inhabitants. Nonetheless...I still find them enchanting.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">The Marble Hall from the outside</td></tr>
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The Abbey church, and believe me, to call it a 'church' seems to do it an injustice, is impressive. It seems, for lack of a better word, strange to walk into such an opulent cathedral-like place of worship while visiting the home of Benedictine monks. I mean, St Benedictine charged his followers to live simply, dedicating their prayer (obviously), their work and their life-long journey of education to the glory of God. <br />
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And therein lies most likely the reason behind the incredible ceiling frescoes and altar paintings (7 famed masters of their time were commissioned to decorate the church in 1722)...to glorify God.<br />
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But, what also struck me during my visit through the Abbey is that the monks were, and continue to be, just plain smart. They have, over the centuries, with hard work and incredible dedication, built a compound for everyone to fall in love with; a school offering high quality education, scholarly achievements to research and study, and an incredibly beautiful tourist destination that everyone wants to visit! <br />
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<a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aX5kvx1IJV4/W2Cm_FQr7MI/AAAAAAAAHec/ST1I6wT_0xkiaVHRMUXMsg8G1own5iW8QCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_1723.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1067" data-original-width="1600" height="426" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-aX5kvx1IJV4/W2Cm_FQr7MI/AAAAAAAAHec/ST1I6wT_0xkiaVHRMUXMsg8G1own5iW8QCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_1723.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The Abbey Park and Garden Pavillion are part of this gorgeous visiting experience. I fell in love with the pavillion, designed as part of the Baroque park in 1750 as a place of relaxation for the monks.<br />
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Only since the year 2000 has this area been open to the public, and it is now a highlight. The park includes a 'Garden of Paradise', a '<span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Jardin Méditerrané</span><span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">en', a meditational path with an incredible view over the Danube and 250 year-old Linden trees.</span> </div>
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Inside the pavillion, the beauty continues, with fantastical exotic frescoes climbing across the walls. <span style="font-size: 12.0pt;">Johann Bergl's creations in the two window-filled rooms are rife with plants, animals, jungle themes, and native people, instilling a longing to learn about and to explore far-off lands.</span><br />
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But look up and you will again be transported to the Baroque scenes of the heavens. Really, it is such a dreamy building.<br />
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When your time at Melk Abbey comes to an end, you will be sent off with the parting words, "Höre und du wirst ankommen" - a blessing reminding us to stop and listen, to come to peace in order to know you have arrived.<br />
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St. Benedictine encouraged his faithful to never stop beginning - in prayer, in work, in learning. To always dedicate oneself anew to living a life in peace with God and with others. He taught that living compatibly within community, to ask forgiveness and to come clean whenever needed, glorifies God and allows us to focus on that what is important. Melk Abbey...an inspiring place indeed.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Listen and you will arrive</td></tr>
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<i><u>If you go, you should know:</u></i></div>
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For opening times, prices and interesting information about all of the rooms in Abbey in case you forget some of the details after your visit (like I did): <a href="http://www.stiftmelk.at/englisch/">http://www.stiftmelk.at/englisch/</a></div>
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How-to-get-there information, including hiking trails and boat tours in the area: <a href="https://www.outdooractive.com/en/tourist-information/danube-lower-austria/wachau-info-center-melk/3234748/">https://www.outdooractive.com/en/tourist-information/danube-lower-austria/wachau-info-center-melk/3234748/</a></div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Abt-Berthold-Dietmayr-Straße 1, 3390 Melk, Österreich48.2294585 15.33350480000001422.707424 -25.975089199999985 73.751493 56.642098800000014tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-5903782865696493322018-06-30T04:00:00.002-07:002018-07-31T11:13:12.638-07:00the berlin airlift...good vs evil using committment and candy bombers<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Years before the Wall divided, and years after Hitler died, there was an event which united...not just the city of Berlin, but many cities, countries and people, with one goal. To fly. To help. To feed. </div>
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Two million women, men and children were stranded., shut off from the rest of the world, for 10 whole months in West Berlin. 1948.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">A portion of the still-standing wall at the East Side Gallery</td></tr>
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June marked 70 years since the beginning of the Berlin Airlift, when Russian military forces blocked all land and rail transports into West Berlin. A very complicated and highly exhaustive coordinated response swiftly followed, with pilots from the British, French, American, Australian, and South African Air Forces flying up to 1400 flights a day. <br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X44bE9HivJA/WzOGn1MDb_I/AAAAAAAAGeU/lmTDCroWN2gqvffXqDCAexeuCsAhoW7NgCPcBGAYYCw/s1600/IMG_6348.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X44bE9HivJA/WzOGn1MDb_I/AAAAAAAAGeU/lmTDCroWN2gqvffXqDCAexeuCsAhoW7NgCPcBGAYYCw/s640/IMG_6348.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Templehof Airport</td></tr>
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Food, medical supplies, mail, and most importantly, coal were flown daily in a round-the-clock series of flights from the Rhein-Main and Hamburg/Hannover regions of West Germany, landing every 90 seconds at 3 airports in the western sector of Berlin.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xX4m5qS0J_I/WzOE8uwQhjI/AAAAAAAAGdk/yiF66178DMg3xTu8j2Z0a6K1u7Y3M_SfgCEwYBhgL/s1600/Boris_Roessler_DPA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="318" data-original-width="565" height="360" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xX4m5qS0J_I/WzOE8uwQhjI/AAAAAAAAGdk/yiF66178DMg3xTu8j2Z0a6K1u7Y3M_SfgCEwYBhgL/s640/Boris_Roessler_DPA.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Boris Roessler/DPA</td></tr>
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One incredibly poignant part of this story is the one of Captain Gail Halverson who, as a personal statement against Stalin and the Russian regime, began throwing out parachutes of chocolate bars and candy as he flew over the neighbourhoods of West Berlin. As children and families began to notice this pattern, Captain Halverson would wiggle his plane's wings whenever he returned, as a signal of the sweet treats fallling from the sky. Soon his colleagues joined in and children would swarm in anticipation when seeing 'Uncle Wiggly Wings' flying low overhead. These planes were given the name of 'raisin bombers' (Rosinen Bomber)...honoring a mission which brought hope and light into a cold and dark community.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqHgdU1NuQ0/WzOE8gfct0I/AAAAAAAAGdc/wXMSYc5KW4MjrziyHDRDjyrTVP5PrptUwCEwYBhgL/s1600/DPA.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="908" data-original-width="1600" height="362" src="https://3.bp.blogspot.com/-KqHgdU1NuQ0/WzOE8gfct0I/AAAAAAAAGdc/wXMSYc5KW4MjrziyHDRDjyrTVP5PrptUwCEwYBhgL/s640/DPA.jpg" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Photo: Picture-Alliance/DPA</td></tr>
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As the airlift began in June 25th 1948, the western Allied forces thought that it would at most last 4-6 weeks. But it soon became clear that Stalin was going to hold out, in the belief that the Berliners would never put up with being cold and hungry, and would agree with forcing the Allieds out of West Berlin. The mayor of West Berlin, Ernst Reuter, gave a passionate plea to more than 350,000 West Berliners gathered in a public standing against Russia, to be resilient and for the world not to forget them. Reuter assured the Allieds that the Berliners would put up with only 1800 calories a day, would walk everywhere (as there was very limited fuel), would put up with candlelight (as electricity had been cut off) as long as the Allieds would not abandon them.<br />
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As winter loomed, West Berliners put their heads down and continued to work and live, with limited food and light and heat. They held out, support by the air, and it worked.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ibF36HfS3TU/WzOGnMdEZBI/AAAAAAAAGd8/QWhCnij3ORgsyZPgleK61W8UXjIerXvVACLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_6343.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ibF36HfS3TU/WzOGnMdEZBI/AAAAAAAAGd8/QWhCnij3ORgsyZPgleK61W8UXjIerXvVACLcBGAs/s640/IMG_6343.JPG" width="640" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Airlift Memorial - Berlin</td></tr>
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Over a million tons of coal, 730 000 tons of food, and 100 000 flights had been flown by Christmas, with a record-breaking 13 000 tons being dropped in a single day. Regardless of cost, the Allieds were committed to keeping up this incredible feat, which actually supplied West Berlin better than it had previously done by land and rail. Stalin realized that his plan wasn't working at all, and Russia finally gave in and took down the blockades in May of 1949. Stalin had underestimated the determination of the outside world, combined with the resilience of the Berliners. He couldn't break the spirit of the people, either economically or politically, as long as a host of western countries, German cities (Hamburg, Hannover, Wiesbaden, Frankfurt) and thousands of courageous individuals were supporting them.<br />
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Memorials now stand in honour of the dedicated pilots, and to the 43 airmen who lost their lives during the airlift. The flights had been continuous, night and day, through the harsh winter, and during all kinds of difficult and dangerous weather, for ten long months. <br />
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<a href="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ztiNBpr9100/WzOGoaW80CI/AAAAAAAAGeI/I1yfEYccxnMJQvOlKLdZWCqBLCJDX0fLwCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_6350.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ztiNBpr9100/WzOGoaW80CI/AAAAAAAAGeI/I1yfEYccxnMJQvOlKLdZWCqBLCJDX0fLwCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_6350.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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The city of Berlin would remain divided for another 40 years. There would come more, less successful acts of courage and determination from within Berlin, such as the <a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Uprising_of_1953_in_East_Germany" target="_blank">uprising in June 1953</a> when East Berliners tried to drive out communism, receiving popular support from across the west. <br />
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<a href="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zAeIdKu43EA/WzOGmH1I-PI/AAAAAAAAGd0/FPFlE-vajtYIXeQ61kHAS0KO-kSYCWqwgCLcBGAs/s1600/IMG_5237.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" data-original-height="1600" data-original-width="1600" height="640" src="https://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zAeIdKu43EA/WzOGmH1I-PI/AAAAAAAAGd0/FPFlE-vajtYIXeQ61kHAS0KO-kSYCWqwgCLcBGAs/s640/IMG_5237.JPG" width="640" /></a></div>
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In the end, the wall would come down. Germany was reunified due to this same determination, courage and perseverance for change, for good, and for freedom. Again, it took many individuals working and communicating together, taking to the streets and to the meeting rooms, to bring about positive change. We need to learn from history so that the steps which lead to division and suppression are not retread.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Tempelhof, Berlin, Deutschland52.4575526 13.39110319999997552.4188566 13.310422199999975 52.4962486 13.471784199999975tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-59506801248438758242018-05-31T14:42:00.001-07:002018-06-02T10:57:29.373-07:00germany's riesling realm...by horse, boat, and cable car<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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I've had the good fortune to spend two very seperate spring days, with two very different groups of people, on two very beautiful tours of Germany's Rheingau region...both just happened to be bachelorette parties. But, instead of strippers there were cyclists, instead of veils and tiaras there were sunglasses and sunscreen, and in both cases there was a lot of flowing bubbly and so much fun.</div>
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<span style="font-size: large;">The Covered-wagon Tour: through vineyards...to castles and convents</span></h4>
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As anyone who rides can tell you, the view from horseback is a special delight. Now, granted I wasn't actually riding these wagon-pulling quadrapeds but it often felt like I was. Meandering the windy and hilly vineyards along the Rhine valley gave me renewed respect for what these workers were doing for us.<br />
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The Rheingau is not Germany's largest wine region (that lies on directly on the other side of the river) but it is definitely its largest Riesling producer and one might say, it features Germany's most internationally successful wine producers. Needless to say, there is very good wine here.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle Vollrads</td></tr>
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And, like everywhere along the Upper Middle Rhine Valley, there are a ubiquitous amount of castles. Schloss Vollrads is a hidden gem, small and delightful, nestled amongst glorious hills of hanging grapes. Unfortunately, like every good castle story, this one has plenty of drama. I won't spoil it by telling you here...you'll need to come and visit.</div>
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Our tour took us through the dainty wine villages along the Rhine, such as Eltville and Ostrich-Winkel. Dotted with half-timbered houses and painted wine taverns, the clip-clop of the horses hooves and the gorgeous scenery made me just so happy. Well, maybe it was also the sekt! (German sparkling wine...of course)<br />
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Which just added to the already very merry time us girls were having.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kloster Eberbach</td></tr>
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The Ring Tour: ferry, chairlift, hike, gondola, ferry...a circle of loveliness and wine</span></h4>
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Starting from Rüdesheim or Bingen, you hop on the ferry towards Assmannshausen, passing a few castles perched on the hillside as you float by. <br />
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This is the beginning of the Upper Middle Rhein Valley, with steep cliffsides and treacherous hanging vineyards and castles every kilometre. A tour that on its own is worth its weight in gold.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Castle Rheinstein</td></tr>
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But on the ring tour, you get out in Assmannshausen, a small town
reknowned for its red wine festival...an unique event in this area of
white wine. The Hotel Krone, built in 1541, is one seriously romantic and very traditional hotel....the hanging wisteria just adds to the sweeping elegance of it all.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Assmannshausen...unfortunate name for a very cute wine town</td></tr>
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Up the ancient chairlift, between hills of vineyards and overlooking the town, towards the forest above Rüdesheim.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Chairlift fear and fun</td></tr>
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On this particular tour, but quite usual if I think about it, wanderers and/or bachelorettes usually stop and picnic...with sekt or just plain ol' normal wine. When in Rome...<br />
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It is approximately thirty minutes of walking through the forest to get to the lookout above Rüdesheim...depending on how many other lookout points you take advantage of.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Coming out of the magic cave...ooh la la</td></tr>
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And you have to add in the picnic stops...Germans really do picnic-ing like no others (in my opinion). Sausages, stuffed peppers, cheese and dips, fresh olive bread, grapes, large plump olives, and chocolate. Add to that, sitting on a castle wall for a bite to eat and well, you can't get that in Canada!<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Picnic at the castle...of course</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Niederwald Memorial</td></tr>
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Above Rüdesheim and you have a view of the widest part of the Rhine, right before it gets to be its narrowest. Across the river is Bingen am Rhein, another traditonal wine town, but with a more laissez-faire flair, possibly due to its years of French rule ergo the huge monument facing France after the Napoleon was defeated and driven away.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Rüdesheim am Rhein</td></tr>
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And then after gondola-ing down towards town, we meandered towards the ferry, but not before taking in another glass of wine or two.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Evening ferry over the Rhine...to get to the other side (duh)</td></tr>
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What's a bachelorette party post without a parting shot after an entire day of bubbly.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com165385 Rüdesheim am Rhein, Deutschland49.982144299999987 7.930112399999984549.818936799999989 7.6073888999999841 50.145351799999986 8.2528358999999849tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-26923812730904940112018-04-30T10:59:00.000-07:002018-05-21T01:09:04.569-07:00palermo...sicily's golden child and the birthplace of cosa nostra<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Perched on the northwest corner of what looks like the giant rock Italy's boot is trying to kick away Palermo is the Island of Sicily's beautiful capital.</div>
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I didn't know much, or anything for that matter, about Sicily before I visited recently, but its rich blend of Arabic, Spanish, French and, of course, Italian influences became very clear to me as we walked towards Piazza Castelnuovo on our way to the Ballarò Market. I'm a lover of all things market related and reading about this one was shamefully the extent of my research.</div>
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But, long before we arrived at the Ballarò we encountered a host of wonderful sights and sounds as this fascinating and somewhat mysterious city opened itself (only partially) to greet us.</div>
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Aspects of Palermo reminded me of the grand, somewhat neglected mainland cities of Spain, such as Cadiz on the Atlantic coast (also one of my favourite historic centres). The streets of Palermo reek of story. There is a sense of daunting, a mix of beauty and foreboding, which could in all fairness have something to do with realisation that this is the birthplace of the mafia. The horse head in the bed. The Don. The Pizza Connection.</div>
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Of course Palermo is much more than its 200-year-old mafia story. It is one of the oldest cities I've been fortunate enough to visit, and its confluence of architectural styles, dating back to 734 BC, impressed me enough that I quickly realized I missed most of the important details as a result of my market obsession (thus I have borrowed some photos from someone who knew better).</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Palermo Cathedral</td></tr>
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Honestly, Palermo's history is confusing and so I won't begin to try and explain the numerous sources of design and cultural significance, except to say that if you were a church builder back in the 12th century then you would've had a boom in business to rival most other centuries. The youngest of four of the most incredible churches built in Palermo between 1132 and 1185 is the Palermo Cathedral, which is impressive enough just from the outside.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Quatto Canti</td></tr>
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Before I get into the nuts and bolts of the three churches I want to focus on, let me just say that if you make it to Palermo you must take five minutes and see Quattro Canti - the most impressive four corners of an intersection you will ever see. The piazza splits two main streets with four Baroque buildings, almost identical, taking over each of the corners. </div>
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The four fountains at ground level represent the four seasons, then come each of the four Spanish kings of Sicily, topped off by Christina, Olivia, Agata and Ninfa, Palermo's four patronesses. I stood as close to the centre of the intersection as I dared in order not to get run over by a fiat or vespa, and began slowly rotating, taking few photos but many deep breaths, trying to absorb the 4 most beautiful corners of two streets I had ever seen.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Cappella Palatina</td></tr>
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The Cappella Palatina is a highlight on any Palermo tour, and the panormiti (as the locals are known) would surely echo this statement. It's a fairly small chapel with much gold, built by the Norman kings as part of the palace grounds, but incorporating a mixture of fascinating styles. A Byzantine dome, Arabic arches, Norman architecture, Christian artwork and Greek inscriptions create a true 'east meets west' creation. </div>
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The chapel is a mosaic masterpiece, with such intricate detail on every surface that one can really spend an inordinate amount of time in this humbly-sized church. But, if you look up you will also experience something remarkable. An Islamic style of design which is sometimes called a 'honeycomb vault', used in ceilings throughout Persian architecture and called 'Muqarnas', the Palatine Chapel showcases this feature beautifully. The vaulting is solely ornamental but unique in adorning special interiors throughout arab-influenced areas, such as Morocco, Spain, Iraq and Egypt.</div>
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Scenes of Christ's life, along with prophets and saints adorn the dome's ceiling in glorious visions of embellished gold.</div>
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We made our way through narrow lanes to the Ballarò, one of Palermo's bright markets, which wasn't as easy to find as I thought. There wasn't a trail of tourists filing in and out of the side streets making their way to this 'attraction' which was, of course, in the end a great thing.</div>
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Under the tarp and awning-covered stands we found mostly locals buying colourful vegetables, fruit and much fish, like Sicilian favourites, swordfish or octopus.</div>
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The narrow streets are almost as colourful as the oranges, tomatoes and artichokes in the Ballarò. Laundry (which I love) hangs cavalierly over balconies and on washing lines from most apartments, alongside potted plants and neglected window shutters. Scan downwards towards street level and more colour greets you with bold graffiti adorning most surfaces. </div>
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That there is a host of activity taking place away from the naive eyes
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Located also in the heart of Palermo, just around the corner from the Quattro Canti, in Piazza Bellini lies the Church of San Cataldo. Also built in the 1100's under Norman rule, San Cataldo is a bit different than your typical European churches. </div>
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It is a pure homage to Norman-Arab architecture, without many of the opulent trimmings used to embellish places of worship at the time.</div>
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The San Cataldo invites you in and holds you once inside, with its naked walls, high arches and bulging domes. One can focus on the minutiae of life's circumstance (if one chooses to do so) without getting sidetracked by lavish gold altars or traumatic frescoes. Spending time in here feels like you've walked into a more primitive, feudal era...much more dangerous than just the Sicilian mafia. <br />
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<span style="text-align: left;">Onwards to one of the oldest and most interesting of Palermo's churches, due to its host of various influences over the centuries, the Martorana.</span><br />
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Where the San Cataldo was naked, the Martorana is draped in gold and dressed in a wonderful blend of 12th century Byzantine mosaics and 18th century Baroque frescoes. Across the piazza from the San Cataldo (why each city needs so many churches is beyond me!) and built about 20 years earlier, the Martorana will steal a good bit of your time if you pay it a visit.</div>
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Between the 14th and 16 centuries, the Martorana was run by Benedictine nuns who took great care in modifying and enhancing large portions of the interiour. Rumours say that the church was then abandoned for a couple of hundred years, reopened and then adorned with sweeping pastel frescoes by Guglielmo Borremans.<br />
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The Greek cross design of the church highlights the Byzantine mozaics, along the likes of Jesus bestowing the crown of Sicily upon the head of King Roger II or George of Antioch lying at the feet of the Virgin Mary.<br />
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While the later frescoes are said to have little artistic value, the Islamic influences on the culture of Norman Sicily, are impressively noticeable from the Martorana's early years. One such imposing element is the Christ Pantokrator, a traditional Greek image, which holds court in the Martorana's dome ceiling. Make sure to look up.</div>
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While meandering through the narrow side streets and across the palm-tree-lined piazzas, we stopped often to snap pics of dramatic doorways and fountains; harkening back to a time when a different type of godfather ruled Sicily, when the <span class="ILfuVd yZ8quc">capo di tutti capi was named Roger or George, not Toto or Salvatore, but where allegiance was every bit as important. A lot has happened on these streets.</span></div>
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Palermo's fascinating history, its interesting blend of architectural influences, its many world heritage sites honouring the cultural impact these ruling factions had on Sicily, and its abundant culinary offerings, ensure that I will be back again. A road trip across this island is on my (now very long) list of things to do. I hope it's on yours too...it won't disappoint, capiche?</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-68592044977155591912018-03-31T03:14:00.002-07:002018-04-04T04:54:34.496-07:00copenhagen...experiencing a hygge kind of life<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">
Spending a few days in Copenhagen, I was struck by an intense feeling of comfort, something akin to a sense of home. I'm not Scandinavian, and my roots do not trace back to this part of the world, as far as I know, at all. But I was intrigued by how Danish people live; where was their focus, what do they value, how do they spend their time? So, I looked into the culture of the Danes, and that is when I came across the word 'hygge' for the very first time.</div>
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The most common words used to describe 'hygge' are cosiness, kinship, togetherness, conviviality, simplicity, contentedness...but from what I've read and experienced, I would hesitate to limit the idea to a few words. Hygge is a lifestyle, a way of thinking...which increases calm and enhances sociability in order to recognise the many blessings that surround us in people, nature, food and comforts.</div>
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Hygge is candlelight. Hygge is standing at the window for a moment and welcoming the morning sun. Hygge is a set table surrounded by love and laughter. Hygge is getting back to basics. Hygge is about being kind to ourselves and each other.<br />
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Fellowship...being together</h3>
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<i>"Attention is the rarest and purest form of generosity." - Simone Weil</i></div>
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Copenhagen's Nyhavn district, translating into 'new harbour' even though the canal was dug in 1670, is full of opportunities to walk, eat and just <i>be</i> together. Not just tourists walk among the heritage sailing vessels and old schooners, or sit in the outdoor cafés sipping the beloved Danish coffee.<br />
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The idea of kinship and being sociable means being open to each other. You don't need to be superficially friendly to everyone and their dog, but be generous with time and energy, if you can spare it. The concept of hygge is to spend quality time with others, whether taking a walk or sharing a meal or a coffee...starting with family. Life is complicated, which we all know, but giving others time goes a long way to building relationship and thereby community. <br />
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At the end of Nyhavn, across a foot bridge is Paper Island, which is currently undergoing a complete renovation. It was a converted paper storage facility housing over 200 street food stalls, with so much easy-going energy that all you could do was enjoy laying out on a lawn chair or sitting on long beer tables, munching on delicious, simple food and loving life. But trust the Danes to have a great plan for this special space...it will surely become a community of good times again soon.<br />
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Copenhagen's answer to New York's cool meatpacking district (was there a question?) is Kodbyen, literally 'meat town' in Danish. Here the vibe is a bit different than Nyhavn...more grit and fewer selfies. There are less tourists and more locals, imbibing together in spacious, converted industrial halls. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Kodbyen...so cool, just make sure you go when it's open ;)</td></tr>
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Breweries, organic restaurants, art galleries, performance art and event spaces make this place feel a bit more old SOHO to me, than meatpacking, but hey what do I know. There's a huge bull on one of the roofs...so meat, it is.<br />
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Nature...being active</h3>
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<i>"Just living is not enough," said the butterfly, "one must have sunshine, freedom, </i></div>
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<i>and a little flower to love." - Hans Christian Anderson</i></div>
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A major component of hygge is to be active, no matter what the weather, and as much as you are physically able, to get outside during all seasons, inhaling fresh air and earning the rewards that will come later in the form of food and firelight and glögg.<br />
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Hiking, biking, kayaking, and just plain old playing are favourite activities of the Scandanavian people. Signe Johansen, author of, "How to Hygge" writes that it's not about looking good but about feeling great all year round. They don't let snow or rain or cold get in the way of a some good clean natural fun. Of course, as a Canadian girl from the Rockies, I know, as do the Danes, that you have to be smart, heed the elements and be prepared. <br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">all-time best name for a club</td></tr>
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What struck me about the concept of hygge is that it really isn't about show. It's not about buying the best sportswear, or workout equipment, or trying to look like Helena Christensen or Nina Agdal. It's about being healthy in mind and body, enjoying the many gifts nature gives us, and just getting outside and doing something.<br />
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Bringing nature into your home, in the form of plants and flowers goes along with that. Keep things simple, you don't have to break the bank, but soaking up the energy that plant life gives is rejuvenating and well, life-giving.<br />
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Come on, you can't tell me that seeing a bouquet of flowers like this, which you've treated yourself to in lieu of taking a few Starbucks runs, wouldn't help start your days with an extra boost of goodness.<br />
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Food...being hospitable</h3>
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<i>"Cooking is caring for others." - Olafur Eliasson</i></div>
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The Scandanavians are known for world-class cuisine, a love of pastries, and excellent home-cooked meals. Eating together and cooking for each other is a treasured and beloved routine, but from everything I've seen, it's not showy or boasty or touted. It's just done...and always has been.<br />
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In Copenhagen, coffee is more of a verb than a noun. I heard about a small café, called Mormors, that from the moment I walked in I never wanted to leave. I went each day I was in Copenhagen and each time I tried something new. <br />
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Aside from great coffee (of course) and delicious homemade treats and sandwiches, its whimsy had me hooked. Dolls hang from the ceiling (okay, sure, it's a little creepy), photos of the Queen (the Danish one of course) or Prince Charles or a clown fill what limited space there is on the walls. <br />
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Vintage tin boxes hold fresh cookies and muffins, ceramic margarine pots nestle barbie dolls from the 50's, and every sort of knick knack you can imagine line shelves and counters. It is fun fun.<br />
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But, Copenhagen can also 'do' finer dining. On this particular evening, I hopped aboard the night ferry to Oslo and enjoyed what my mood and wallet allowed...a bit of caprese, bruschetta and wine.<br />
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Simplicity...being thankful</h3>
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"Beautiful is that which is practical, useful, informed by its purpose, and </div>
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expressive of the soul of its user or creator." - Ellen Kay</div>
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Walking and getting lost in Mälmo (Sweden), Oslo (Norway) and also in Copenhagen on this trip, I was struck by how most of the small stores and boutiques looked and sounded local. All of us know and own Scandanavian furniture in some form, but the fashion and design industry, including lighting and architecture, are shaped by the underlining principle of simplicity and function. <br />
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Again, hygge is not about show or pricetag, but about getting back to the basics, lighting a fire or a candle, and not cluttering our minds or homes with unneccesary 'stuff'...making room for creativity, energy and a little light.<br />
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<i>"In acceptance of the limitations that life imposes on us and in knowing that we can choose our attitude in any given circumstance and make the best of our situation, </i></div>
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<i>we throw open the window to hygge." - Louisa Thomsen Brits</i></div>
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This really is a special part of the world, and not for nothing do the Scandanavian countries top the 'best places to live', 'best quality of life', and 'happiest countries' lists year after year. If you get a chance go and visit, or better yet, incorporate hygge into your daily routine and bring a bit of Scandanavia to you. That's what I'm going to do! Skal!<br />
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If you go:<br />
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- consider a tour (as short or long as you want) with <a href="https://authentic-scandinavia.com/" target="_blank">Authentic Scandanavia</a>. They were really pleasant to plan with, helpful with recommendations and options, and my 5-day tour was perfect for what I wanted to do and what I could afford<br />
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- pop into Mormors...it's a wonderful treat (Bredgade 45, Copenhagen)<br />
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- read Signe Johansen's "How to Hygge"...better yet read it if you can't go and bring hygge to you!Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Kopenhagen, Dänemark55.6760968 12.56833719999997455.532822800000005 12.245613699999973 55.8193708 12.891060699999974tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-91395527921725423522018-02-28T15:17:00.000-07:002018-03-01T04:39:20.690-07:00camogli...the most gorgeous italian fishing village you've never heard ofNestled on the edge of the Italian Riviera is the small fishing village of Camogli. Overshadowed by its more popular neighbours of Portofino and further south, Cinque Terra, Camogli is where Italians outnumber tourists, where an espresso dopio costs only 2€, and the array of colour amidst rock and waves astound.<br />
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Not for nothing is this area of northern Italy called the 'Golfo Paradiso'. Just 45 minutes south of Genoa, by train or car, Camogli is the perfect inexpensive day trip or a destination to relax, rejuvenate and hike from for a week or two or more.<br />
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In its heyday Camogli was home to hundreds of tall ships, and with over 500 registered ship captains it was a thriving seaport.<br />
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Perched on the edge of the black pebbled beach is Castello della Dragona, a fascinating setting to let your imagination run wild with images of Napoleon's ships at anchor in the cove, warring factions of Italy's five maritime superpowers during the Middle Ages, and<br />
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centuries of fishing boats streaming out at dawn in search of their daily catch.<br />
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The fishing method still used in Canogli is called Tonnarella - a 17th century system of netting fish while not killing them directly, so that all the fish caught which can't be sold that day are released. Nets, made of coconut fibres, are lowered and raised three times a day.<br />
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The backdrop of the town is definitely colour. Russet, pink and mustard-coloured buildings guide you along the small fishing harbour, and through the town's main street and high up into the hills.<br />
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With a sprinkling of love in the air it was "amore a prima vista" for me.<br />
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Laundry, consisting of cute Italian clothes (do they have any other kind?) and bed sheets, covers the delicately painted faux facades around every corner...and I couldn't get enough of it!<br />
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On my next visit (and there will be one!) I will make sure to hike from Camogli, along the cove's coast to San Rocco church which is perched high above the town. If you keep going along the waterline or through the national park to the hidden gem of San Fruttuoso you will find its Benedictine Monastery and magical cove, which is only accessible by foot or ferry.<br />
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Then, I might just keep on wandering to Portofino...all apparently doable in a great day of walking. If you're interested in doing this too check out the trail site at <a href="https://www.portofinotrek.com/trek/gb/6-trail-map" target="_blank">Portofino Trek</a>, which I will be doing the next time I visit!<br />
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But at the end of the day, traveling and these words continue to inspire me...
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Stay curious, keep learning, love deeply...and most of all, be kind.</div>
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When you go:</div>
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Train schedule - <a href="http://www.trenitalia.com/">www.trenitalia.com</a></div>
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Portofino trek information - <a href="http://www.portofinotrek.com/">www.portofinotrek.com</a></div>
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Just 45 minutes by train/car from Genoa, it's an easy and inexpensive day trip.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com016032 Camogli GE, Italy44.3542792 9.149817799999937144.3315687 9.1094772999999378 44.3769897 9.1901582999999363tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-9175304090907624550.post-17238261089119282112018-01-29T09:00:00.000-07:002018-09-30T07:29:42.734-07:00the charm of the cotswolds...an easy daytrip from london!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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One might imagine that entering a town that is brushed an overwhelmingly uniform shade of taupe would lack in something, but let me tell you that Stow-on-the-Wold has an abundance of colour oozing out of its rich history and character.<br />
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Sweet, curious cottages are the first thing I notice. They hang out on seemingly every corner. An imposing market cross stands at attention in the middle of the square - erected in the middle ages as a constant reminder for the sheep traders to remain fair and honest in their dealings.<br />
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Pubs abound, like they do England, everywhere. But, Stow-on-the-Wold is also internationally reknowed for its antiques...therefore you'll find no shortage of galeries and shops here.<br />
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Charming, charismatic, and outlandish...like in an 'Outlander'-type way (although I know that the TV series is filmed in Scotland) are inadequate words I would use to describe this town and its surrounding romantic hills. <br />
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Sitting atop the highest 'wold' in the Cotswolds, Stow-on-the-Wold's medieval church spire can be seen from miles away. This area, deeply affected and infected by the remnants of Henry VIII and the Tudor reign, the bloodshed of the first English Civil War, and Britain's obsession for the best wool to be had, makes a visit here feel like stepping back in time.<br />
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During the civil war, Stow remained fiercely loyal to the crown, which is evidenced by plaques to the fallen and buildings still proudly bearing royal names, such as the King's Arms in the market square; a 500-year-old former coaching inn. Coming here by train is the perfect day trip from London, but on my next
visit I will definitely stay the night in a quaint and cozy inn, like the King's Arms, for a
quick and easy break from the city.<br />
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Stow-on-the-Wold, one of many incredibly cute and picturesque market towns of the
southern midlands, located in the northern Cotswolds, held for centuries
the largest livestock market in Britain.<br />
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Long, narrow lanes, called "chures", run upwards to the market square from the large holding pens below, where the sheep were driven through and counted as they came to the square to be sold on market days. Upwards of 20,000 sheep were sold on good days!<br />
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The middle ages was an incredibly prosperous time for Stow due to the high demand across the country for the special, long-haired, woolly Cotswold sheep, still a precious breed today.<br />
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The entire Cotswolds region is a maze of lovely walking trails through the high and lowlands...<br />
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among fields of sheep and horses, which connect towns with low-lying stone walls and tree-lined paths.<br />
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Just a mile from Stow is the former sheep estate called Maugersbury, which once upon a time supplied the vast amount of animals for Stow's successful market days. <br />
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Now a hamlet, it is home to the cutest stone cottages nestled among what look to be high-end, grey-stoned villas.<br />
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The architecture style of the area became known as Cotswold Vernacular, stemming from the original building method, which was wood with wattle and daub, until wood became scarce and the area's limestone was put into use. This resulted in everything from homes and foundations, to roof tiles and fences covered in coursed rubble walls.<br />
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Some of the original methods can still be found in Stow, including Tudor House on Sheep Street, dating back to the 1500's.<br />
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The town also boasts "England's Oldest Inn" according to the Guinness Book of Records. The Royalist Inn, along with The Porch House, on Digbeth Street dates all the way back to 947 AD. Isn't this the perfect place to have a pint?<br />
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The Cotswolds are England's largest Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) stretching from Stratford Upon Avon down to Bath. Personally, I can't wait to get back so that I can spend much more time hitting the region's meandering footpaths and combing through the treasures of its stone-walled villages.<br />
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Trust me, if you're looking for a different kind of High Street - a quieter, more peaceful one - then the Cotswolds are a perfect break from London.<br />
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<i>If you go:</i><br />
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<i>From London's Paddington Station trains run every hour to Moreton-on-March (a 1.5 hour journey). From Moreton's train station take a 20-minute bus ride to Stow-on-the-Wold.</i><br />
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<i>Travel by train at 'super, non-peak' hours to get the best deal on tickets (www.thetrainline.com) which are very easy to book ahead online.</i><br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0Stow-on-the-Wold, Vereinigtes Königreich51.931363999999988 -1.72644400000001551.911781999999988 -1.7667845000000151 51.950945999999988 -1.6861035000000149