madeira...an island of fish, flowers and fado

Napoleon's last stop...the flower island

Well-known, not only for being the birthplace of the world's best footballer, Cristiano Ronaldo, Funchal, the capital of the Portuguese island Madeira, has been an important historical stopover for explorers and revolutionists.

Located in the Atlantic Ocean off of the northwest coast of Africa, Madeira is a cluster of four little islands known for its wine, its blooms, sugar cane production, and family-oriented, hard-working fishing culture.

Funchal's amazing colours...in the market and on the streets

Mercado dos Lavradores

The Mercado dos Lavradores will entice you into its art-deco, 1930's-designed structure. Over two stories, including a huge fish hall, this market is so beautiful and interesting you will stay awhile.

Black Scabbard Fish

Along with all sorts of exotic fruit and vegetables, fish and food, there are also booths with clothing, music, and leather accessories. A little village unto itself, where locals also come to get shoes repaired, blades sharpened, or to buy lottery tickets...the mercado is full of local flair.

As often is in a cool city, the areas which were once the dangerous, poor neighbourhoods are now the 'it' places to live and visit. In Funchal, these oldest streets are now vibrant, colourful lanes filled with lively restaurants and bars...

With painted doors and murals everywhere you look.

Wandering through Funchal's oldest street, Rua de Santa Maria, which runs parallel to the ocean, there are plenty of options to experience authentic Portuguese Fado. This melancholic music, which translated means 'fate' or 'destiny' is a moody and emotional combination of voice and guitar.

Madeira is also known for its immaculate network of hiking trails. These levadas are the irrigation canals built in the 16th century to supply water to the sugar cane producers. The over 2000 kms of levadas zig-zag and serpentine through the valleys up and down the island, making a hiking holiday here just perfect.

Levadas

Some levadas are cut into hillsides or tunnelled through cliffs, but most of them offer a fairly consistent view of the wide blue ocean beyond.

Fortaleza de Sao Tiago

Camara de Lobos - A proud fishing tradition

A short bus or taxi ride away from Funchal is the gorgeous little fishing village of Camara de Lobos. Made famous by Winston Churchill who stopped at this spot (see photo below) to set up his easel, needing to paint this cove immediately, Camara de Lobos enchanted me.

In amongst the small lanes spreading out from the port there is a tiny chapel which if you're not looking for it you will most likely miss. This is where traditionally the fishermen have come to pray before heading out into the wild unknown of the sea. It is quite possibly the most beautiful chapel, next to Francis of Assisi's own, that I have ever seen.

Nossa Senhora da Conceição

 Said fishermen you will find out on the boardwalk playing cards or in the dark taverns watching TV.

I loved watching the fishermen work on their boats, or hanging out playing cards together. This craft of building and repairing these fisher boats has barely changed over the centuries. It is pure tradition...but unfortunately more and more difficult to make a living at.

Monte - Traditional Wicker Toboggan Rides

A gondola or taxi ride up from Funchal is the quaint village of Monte. Here, the villas are nestled into the  steep volcanic hillside, surrounded by banana plantations. After visiting the Monte Palace, with its late 1800's exotic gardens and waterfalls, and the cathedral, the most exciting way back down (according to Ernest Hemingway anyways) is by Carreiro-driven wicker toboggan.

These super-cool Carreiros, dressed in regulated white with wicker hat, expertly guide the sleds down  the steep 4 km roads with an average speed of 12 km/h.

The tradition began in the 1850's as an easy way for locals to get down the hill to Funchal. Now, it is a strictly-regulated tourist attraction, taking about 20 minutes...on the ride of your life.

But, before heading down to Funchal we made sure to see the exquisite pilgrimage cathedral of Our Lady of the Mountain (what a name!). Not only a visit worth because of its painted ceiling, it is also the final resting place of the last ruler of the Austro-Hungarian empire, Charles I of Austria, who died in Monte in exile.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Monte

Built in 1741, this church has survived earthquakes and wild fires. It is a colourful, moving experience spending moments here. The painted wooden ceiling depicts religious scenes and artistic elements making you want to look up as much as towards the altar...and Mary.

If you go:

-flying is tricky...go with Godspeed because the runway is one of the world's most, let's just say, interesting.

-take time on the island to walk the many trails, to hang out close to the fishermen and banana-growing locals

-no need to rent a car: walk or take a taxi...it is not expensive

-make sure to eat the black scabbard fish...delicious and unique...and drink wine :)

an afternoon in lisbon's baixa

Of course, an afternoon is not enough time to fully explore any of Lisbon's incredible neighbourhoods, but sometimes you just have to make the most of the time you have! And that's what I did two months ago, as I finished my trip to Portugal's southern Algarve region. I had heard a lot about Lisbon's gorgeous architecture, quaint streets and low-cost culinary treats, so I was very excited to soak up each minute that I had in the city.

I chose to focus on Lisbon's historic centre, usually my favourite part of any city, and spent most of my time wandering up and down the chess-board formation of the Baixa. Bordered by the Tagus River heading out to sea and Portugal's very own Champs Elysees, the Avenue de Libertad, the Baixa is nestled between two hills on its eastern and western sides...essentially, it is the heart of Lisbon.

I started at the Rossio (Praca dom Pedro IV), an impressive market square whose surrounding buildings, along with almost every other structure in Lisbon's inner city, was completed destroyed by the 1755 earthquake.

Within a month after the quake, the prime minister at the time, the Marquis of Pombal, had decided to raze the entire Baiza and start from scratch. The plans were developed to create large squares, avenues built like a chess-board grid, and wide streets. Everything was built earthquake proof, some of the first structures of this kind in Europe.

As I always do when I'm wandering around a new city, I fairly often stop for coffee. And though I will admit to sometimes popping into a Starbucks (because it reminds me of home), in most European countries, it's a real shame to miss out on the local café scene. In Portugal, it would just be plain stupid. The coffee, along with the Portuguese must-have pastry, the Pasteis de Nata (a flavourful creme-filled, almost bite-sized, perfect accompaniment to any afternoon refreshment break) is delicious and incredibly low-cost. Coffee breaks are super guilt-free in Portugal!

One of the most striking structures I have ever come across in the centre of a city, is by far the Elevador de Santa Justa. This lift delivers people from the low streets of the Baixa up to the Lago do Cormo (Cormo Square). It is 45 metres tall, 7 stories high, and since 1902 easily solves the problem of getting up to the other parts of the city.

Otherwise, take the stairs...like I did.

The Baixa is filled with many cosy cafés and tucked away, hole-in-the-wall bars. It definitely is a city where you should stay for the evening. Traditional Fado bars, home to one of the most distinct aspects of Portuguese culture, are a must. Fado music is difficult to describe, and believe me I have tried to find a good description. It is melancholic and folky, but elegant and brooding. You have to just listen to it.

And best with a small glass of Ginjinha, a dark-cherry liqueur that the Portuguese are immensely proud of. It's more of a cultural thing, than just a beverage...laced with tradition and stories from the past about its healing powers. It's also really yummy...and I don't even like cherries!

Lisbon's old funicular, the Elevador da Glorio, is also an a part of Lisbon which has basically reached legend status. The ringing of the tram bells will accompany you like a comforting friend guiding you through downtown Lisbon. These tram cars, some long since retired, splattered in grafitti, and others, newly renovated in the '80's, and happily yellow, are an easy and very cheap way to get around the Baixa.

Lisbon's central neighbourhoods are full of steep hills and so any part of a local's journey that can be supported electrically is surely appreciated.

As I wandered up and down the grid-like streets, stopping on a few occasions for a ginja or coffee break, I came across Rua da Rosa in the Bairro Alto. The street is really as colourful as its name.

Small shop fronts, quaint bars and altogether normal homes are almost all painted in bright colours or covered in tiled mosaics. Some of the street also had streamers strung across it creating an all-round festive vibe. Even though many of the streets in the inner city, as in most inner cities, are a bit dilapidated, some corners more neglected than others, these streets had an electric energy...passionate and lively.

And too many beautiful aspects to show all of them here.

The next time I visit Lisbon I will definitely plan a lot more time in the city. There are many corners and sights that I only saw from far away or was told about. But, even the afternoon that I spent in this former 'centre of the world' according to some historians, was an excellent use of my time.

And I did manage to get a bird's-eye view of the city from the Miradouro de Sao Pedro de Alcantara...at the top of the stairs. Worth it...all around!

portugal's beautiful south...the algarve

The winter months are a great time to visit southern Portugal and Spain, in my opinion. The Algarve, for instance, is one of Portugal's most popular tourist destinations, but in January, it felt like I had it all to myself.

During the high season, southern Portugal's population triples in size! The beaches are packed and the small gorgeous towns are bustling. It is also very hot! But, in January, needing to flee Germany's dark grey winter, I needed sunshine and a peaceful ocean view...and I got it, and so much more, in the Algarve.

Castro Marim

The towns in Portugal's deep south-east, as the coastline makes a beeline in towards Spain, the simple, yet detailed houses, reminded me a lot of Andalusia. There is a laid-back feeling among the people, but with the undertones of hard work and little money to spare. As a visitor, an outsider, I wanted to stay longer; wishing for more time to get know the locals' lifestyle better.

Whenever I visit southern Europe, I am struck again, but how rich, complicated, and bloody Europe's history is. In the southern towns and cities, there are still so many signs of the past; conflicting influences noticeable around every corner, often preserved in beautiful homages to another time.

Like most of Europe, the Romans were here for a long stretch, after the Phoenicians, but then the Moors took over in 716AD and influenced everything from design and architecture, to food and music.

I had the good fortune of exploring the area around Castro Marim by bike, which is the mode of transportation I would highly recommend for this entire region. Bike rental is inexpensive, and it lets you inhale and absorb so much more of what the Algarve has to give, than if you experience it by car.

In the flat areas of the coastline, where the jagged cliffs farther west have smoothed out into sandy dunes and grassy knolls, there are huge salt ponds where sought-after sea salt is cultivated - all kinds, from the most expensive chef-quality all the way down to the least expensive street salt-quality. Flamingos love these ponds!

A huge bonus when you visit in January; southern Portugal starts the year off right, with spring! The almond and carob trees were already budding out, orange and lemon trees were heavy with sweet-smelling fruit, and the fields were full of springtime blooms. It was heaven for this sunshine-starved girl.

Faro

My favourite of the towns I was able to visit, was by far Faro, Portugal's southern-most point. Pretty much Faro's entire old city is covered with Portugal's famed azulejo tiles. The ground, the walls, the doorways, the stairs...intricate, colourful, mosaics of these small painted, tin ceramic tiles make every surface a focal point.

These small tiles actually have a very functional genesis. They were, and still are, used as a way of controlling temperature; keeping rooms cool during the many scorching months. The Moors used the tiles to cover entire walls as a way of satisfying their belief that empty spaces are to be feared. While the Christians began using them as decoration for altars and cathedral floors. Nowadays, azulejos are an intricate and normal part of Portuguese culture, and are incorporated in even the most simple of homes.

Tavira

A few kilometres east of Faro, lying almost 200 kms exactly west of Seville, is the town of Tavira. Nestled on the coastline, it was also nearly completely destroyed by the 1755 earthquake and resulting tsunamis that destroyed much of the Algarve, along with Portugal's capital, Lisbon. Because of their proximity to Spain, these coastal towns were rebuilt very quickly in order to show strength; ensuring that Portugal's south-eastern neighbour doesn't entertain any ideas of expansion.

What I found fascinating about Tavira, was its doors. I love windows and doors throughout Europe, and I always take a million photos of them when I'm exploring a new place. I believe that they really are the 'window' to how people live, and even without knowing what lies behind them, you get an impression of a culture by what their doors and windows look like.

These doors in Tavira stood out for me, with their somewhat creepy, child-like hands hanging from them, so I wanted to share them with you. Honestly, I'm not sure if there is a traditional meaning behind these hands, or if it's just a trendy, fun thing. These doors weren't anywhere close to each other and were on distinctively different buildings, so I'm not sure what, if any connection there was between them.

Even the town's run-down corners are beautiful, which I hope doesn't come across as patronizing. Like with every town or city, the less-polished bits teach you much more about a place than the slick, freshly-painted parts...in my opinion. Of course, I'm just looking at them from the outside.

Albufeira

Approximately the same distance away from Faro, as Tavira is, but to the west, Albufeira is a very popular destination in the Algarve.

Here is where the Atlantic coastline becomes very cliffy, jagged and full of exciting panoramas (or so I've been told). Unfortunately, I didn't have that much time to explore the coastline but the next time I will venture out onto the water and head west towards the open sea. Seeing the ocean's rough handling of the shoreline, and the enthralling cliff formations, is something that is surely not to be missed. Next time!

After dipping my toes in the frigid water and enjoying the sand beneath my feet, my friends and I had to try one of Portugal's most delicious treats: Pastel de Nata, a small custard tart which you will find in every single coffee shop in the land. Do not resist. They look simple, but are so yummy.

And at the end of the day, I was thrilled to have the opportunity to experience this place; blessed to have the time to write and relax, even if just for a week....soaking up the sunshine and ocean views. Thanks Portugal...I'll be back.