nina on the go

Stories of this Canadian girl's adventures exploring Europe & beyond...join me!

Friday, July 31, 2020

inglewood...calgary's first (and coolest?) neighbourhood

Calgary's 9th Avenue, in the city's south-east Inglewood is the original main street. Located just east of the iconic island of office towers in downtown, Inglewood grew out of bustling Fort Calgary, the city's first settlement built in 1875.

The fort and Inglewood, respectively, were established in the heart of Blackfoot territory, on what is now Treaty 7's Camp Mohkinstsis, meaning 'Where the Elbow meets the Bow' (

On the banks of the Elbow, across from Calgary's busy downtown, you will find the oldest structure in Calgary known as the Hunt House, built in 1876 and part of the Hudson's Bay Company (Canada's oldest company, fur trading since 1670). On the same property not far away you will also find the Métis Cabin, a similar structure from the same decade.

Look across the street and you will see refurbished warehouses hosting art galleries, architecture firms, hot yoga and cool stores. My favourite is Fair's Fair (for Booklovers - their slogan, not mine)...a paradise for anyone who is, well, a book lover. You will most probably get lost in this mammoth used book store.

But, what most Calgarians identify Inglewood with is music. There are some now-classic venues supporting independant, home-grown and not-so-local musicians and songwriters, such as the Blues Can, Ironwood, Festival Hall and the Nash. Even though singers now (currently) need to sing in the 'aquarium' to protect patrons, the sound and vibe is still the same.

The Ironwood Stage & Grill moved to the old Garry Theatre, which opened as a motion picture house in 1936, becoming the Loose Moose theatre (many a time spent watching improv there in my youth!) in the late '70's, and a decade ago transforming into its current manifestation.

In this very walkable neighbourhood, there are many businesses which have become Calgary institutions, whose home has seemingly forever been Inglewood. One of the first (paid) events I ever planned was twenty years ago this summer, a 50th surpise party at Kane's Harley Diner. The vibe in there was perfect for a '50's-themed party, and not at all cheesy.

Nowhere is the dichotomy between young and old, vintage and modern as strikingly represented as in Inglewood. The neighbourhood has, in my opinion, masterfully renewed, re-energized, and re-invigorated what was once a very run-down, neglected part of the city, by combining the historic, original flair with contemporary elements...infills neighbouring originals...

fashionable, yet unique boutiques like Antiquaire or Espy (my new favourite) alongside...

quaint, rustic shops...where a baby lies on a blanket in the middle of the shop, the owner sells you her book of Victorian flowers which was actually just meant for decoration, and you leave with your arms overflowing (which really isn't the plan while doing research)...

and whimsical, yet utilitarian. Is there anything more iconic than Crowne Surplus? I have always loved popping in here, picking up something random for my brother like paracord (only the real stuff!). It's like a museum. It is a museum.

Don't forget to eat in Inglewood...or just drink. There is an incredible variety of excellent options from cafés to pubs to Mexican, Italian, drive-in, and high-end. I have a hard time choosing what I'm in the mood for when I'm in Inglewood...because I want everything here! Do I want coffee at Gravity, or a beer at the Hose & Hound, Chips & Salsa with a side of Vanilla Stoli at the Blues Can, or breakfast at Delightful? So many choices.

But if you want to head to the beginning of it all (well almost, 1906), and possibly chat with a ghost, then reserve a table at The Deane House. Lying on the banks of the Elbow River, with a view of the Calgary Tower and the Saddledome, this historic building was once a part of Fort Calgary until it was rolled over the river in 1929 in a feat of engineering, to its new home.

Craft breweries have popped up here in the past few years (haven't they everywhere), creating a new, chill vibe on a couple of Inglewood's older corners.

And, of course, mainstays like Calgary favourites Spolumbo's Fine Foods & Deli, or the landmark Inglewood Drive-In which you pass as you head over the bridge to the zoo, or another historic dining establishment, Rouge, are yummy options for a full or near-empty wallet, and for many a different tastebud. When it's open, I can't stay away from The Swan public house. It could possibly be my favourite the whole world.

In any new city, and on many a blog post, I highly recommend taking a walk off the main street to see how the locals live, and that is no different here. Wander off of 9th Ave, in either direction, and stroll among the houses to get a feel of home here. In Inglewood the houses are still unique and interesting, sometimes eclectic, but always different from their neighbour. There is no cookie-cutter pattern here featuring some designer 'look'. The 'look' is the design of Inglewood...and it creates an atmosphere of authenticity which personally I love.

The buildings and homes are as "well-rounded", shall we say, "street-wise" as its citizens, and in all honestly, it's not always pretty. You might just see a drug deal going down on one of the side streets, or a shady character or two, and oh the sirens...there are lots of sirens. This isn't the suburbs (thank God!) and it's never boring. But, it is safe, which is always important to this particular, mostly-solo, female traveller.

Inglewood is nestled in the armpit of the Elbow and Bow Rivers, where they join up to flow happily ever after together (unless they flood, then it's not so happy). There is a beautiful river pathway following the Bow from far in the north, through downtown and along Inglewood's leafy edge. There are rafters, dog-walkers, stroller-pushers, Canadian Geese (many) and a bike or two.

It's the perfect place to experience Calgary's history, modern vibe and the doorway into the great outdoors. Start here, in Inglewood, and go forth into the wild frontier, just like they did back in the day...but use a bike instead of a horse, that's what I do.

If you go:
  • take the time to eat.
  • you can park for free for up to 2 hours practically on every street, an amazing thing in Calgary.
  • don't miss visiting Kensington, Calgary's first suburb...also very cool, and just minutes away - follow the Bow River upstream and make a right :)


Sunday, May 31, 2020

bologna, italy...a pilgrim's journey towards faith and food

"Bologna is a city of porticos. They are our bridges, which unite and facilitate encounter and journeying." - Archbishop Zuppi

As I lean against the stone wall which encircles the Sanctuary of the Madonna di San Luca, located on a hilltop just outside of Bologna's city cenre, I notice a small, elderly woman on a bench close to me, hunched over a worn leather book. I couldn't tell what book it was, but her dedicated, focused manner makes me guess it was the Bible. She was no tourist. She was a regular here...this place meant something to her.

This is, afterall, a site devoted to the Madonna, who not just tens of thousands of travellers a year pilgrimage to, but also locals...some weekly, some monthly, some yearly.

The way here is beautiful. One of the most serene and special I have ever had the pleasure of taking. The sanctuary is linked to the historic old town by the Portico di San Luca, one of the world's longest covered walkways, at almost four kilometres long.

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Portico di San Luca has 666 vaulted arcades, symbolizing the devil, and Mary's ultimate protection from him, encompasing 15 chapels along the way, dedicated to the Mysteries of the Rosary.

Now, I'm not Catholic, so I can't really go into much detail about these mysteries, sufficed to say that stopping to take note of the weathered artwork on the walls, behind the metal protective grates, the notes and flowers, the burnt-out candles on the ground and the drawings afixed onto the bars, made me acutely aware of the significance this path has for some.

Since 1433 dedicated folk have walked here, carrying the icon of the Madonna with Child to and from Bologna's Cathedral of San Pietro, and I wanted to walk here too.

This got me thinking about my journeys, pilgrimages, if you will: the journey towards a sacred or special place. I did very intentionally plan for this particular walk, from one of Bologna's twelve gates of its ancient wall, the Porta Saragozza, to the hilltop church, wanting to take the time to reflect on the path in life I was taking, and what changes or decisions I needed to be making.

It was an incredible afternoon guided by the faithful expanse of rolling forests and fields which surround northern Italy's gorgeous Bologna. I can't say that I solved all (or any) of my problems that day, but the decision to make this journey, and following through with it, gave me the confidence to embark on further journeys that were to come. And, allowed me to reminisce on where I had been...

Just over 20 years ago, I spent a summer in the Austrian Alps taking incredible days-long journeys up mountains, down into caves, and towards a better understanding of who I was and wanted to be. The process of reaching the destination each evening, as much as we revelled in reaching the warmth and promise of a great meal the mountain huts gave us, was the part that stands out as most special in my mind. I did a lot of growing on those tough craggy trails and klettersteig climbs...figuring myself out in the aftermath of a young marriage and super-young divorce, how to forgive and heal and look towards the path ahead, while looking down from cross-adorned peaks. The work that is done on your heart and mind when you're enduring the tough journey, that is what builds character and definition. But, the choice to take the journey is surely just as important, because without that decision there is just netflix and chill...nowadays anyways.

But, what about the regular, dedicated journeys that we make, or should be taking, in our 'normal' lives - not just the big, exciting Camino di Santiago-type pilgrimages? For example, I have a dear friend who almost daily walks up his suburban, tree-lined street towards a large, mostly empty church, just to sit in silence and think. He's a great teller of stories, and I'm sure it is because he deliberately  and intentionally, with care, takes the time to ponder the state of the world he lives in and his place in it, so that he can put down in words in such illuminating ways what he sees and feels.

I have come to two conclusions:

That it is this making-of-space for thought and reflection and silence, whether on an empty church pew, or in a field of grass, or on a mountaintop, that is definitely important in creating a sense of calm within our incredibly distracted lives, and in figuring out who we are and who we should be in this ever-strange world we live in together...a destination we should all be so lucky in reaching.

But also, that the decision to take the journey (any journey), and actually faithfully putting one foot in front of the other, as we embark on the path, trusting in ourselves that we have packed everything we need in order to go forward; whether it's towards a new relationship, towards healing an old one, towards a new career path, or towards getting to know our neighbour or community, or towards healing ourselves and finding calm, the decision to take the first step and continuing each day is surely the vital part of any journey.

As far as destinations go, Bologna is a great place to trek to. It is a city which, firstly, esthetically, looks different from other Italian cities (not that the others all look similar, of course, but this one stands out).  Bologna is painted in a patina of rust-coloured red, including the Due Torri (two towers) which are visible from almost every vantage point.

People are friendly here. They have been used to travellers and visitors since basically the beginning of time. The city is the centre of pretty much all major crossroads in Italy; between Venice and Genoa, between Florence and Milan, and lies directly on the path northwards from Rome to the rest of continental Europe. Bologna has always been a very important trade city, and one of the wealthiest in Italy due to its vital role in agriculture, finance and industry.

It is one of the oldest cities. Period. Bologna's historic old town is Europe's second largest - for that alone it's worth the trip! But, it is also home to, some say, the oldest university in the world, although a local I had dinner with here implied that Ferrara's university, an hour away, should actually hold that title.

Nevertheless, Bologna's oldest university building, the Archiginnasio of Bologna is incredibly beautiful, and houses the anatomical theatre and municipal library, which was originally created to hold the books collected after Napoleon ordered the closure of all religious orders.

Bologna is the capital of my favourite Italian region, Emilia-Romagna, also known as Italy's 'bread basket' because it's the origin of some of the world's best food (IMO). Bolognese sauce, Parmigiano Reggiano, Prosciutto di Parma, balsamic vinegar (Modena!), to name a few, and a whole host of delicious pastas, including lasagne, cappelletti and stuffed tortellini.

Driving or training (that's how I did it) on a food pilgrimage, beginning in Parma, through Modena, and ending in Bologna, will give you a tasty journey like no other. Wander through narrow streets lined with small shop fronts filled with hanging salami and mortadella and counters of freshly-made pasta, or sit in a cozy trattoria and eat what the locals eat. Try ordering a plate of parmigiano reggiano when you first arrive, which will be served with a small pot of honey and Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena, to get into the gastronomical groove for your tour...that's what I did, and oh my...

For a truly authentic faith and food pilgrimage, try treking part of the Via Francigena from the Swiss Alps down to the Romans did. Along the way, you will have much time to reflect on your life's journey while also passing directly through Emilia Romagna. You can taste test your way through Italian's on my list!

I hope that by the end of my life (though hopefully it won't be take me that long) I will have found the dedication and thoughtfulness to not only go forth on the big journeys, but like the old woman on the bench, or my friend in the empty church, to embark on the smaller ones. To take the time in my day to read and reflect and make the decision and to follow through with it like a ritual or pilgrimage. And if, like the old woman, my path leads me under a long, beautiful covered walkway, protecting me from the elements, I hope that I will never lose faith and will trust, as the Bolognese do, that something, possibly Mary, is always there watching over me.

Italy, especially the northern regions, has been heavy on my mind the past few months, as they have been one of the worst hit areas of the Covid-19 pandemic. I'm thinking of you, bella Italia, as you begin to heal and recover, and I look forward to visiting again soon. You are a special place.

(borrowed from an ad seen somewhere in Emilia-Romagna)

If you go:

Watch the incomparable Anthony Bourdain's great Emilia-Romagna episode...and drool.

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