freiburg...christmas spirit in the black forest

In Germany's Black Forest, so-called because of its dense, dark pines, you can spend hours or days hiking amongst gnomes and wood fairies, howling wolves and vampires. Surely, none of these things actually exist here, but I don't find it difficult for a minute to imagine they do.

The Black Forest is bordered to the west by the mighty Rhine in Germany's south-west, can wave branches to France and Switzerland, and is a beloved tourist destination for hiking, spa-ing, and cuckoo-clocking. Here is where tradition lives...and is loved.

The Black Forest inpires moments of wandering along pine-scented hiking trails, enjoying cozy, firelit evenings with steaming cups of anything, and relishing sumptuous food with names like Spätzle, Knöpfle, Gugelhupf and of course, Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake).

Käse Spätzle (cheese noodles)

But, the Black Forest can also really do Christmas. In its largest city, Freiburg, the advent spirit of twinkle lights and mulled wine, the manger and St. Nick, children singing and adults shopping is a well-lived tradition.

Freiburg is a very old city, and even without the Christmas flair, is a beloved tourist destination for people wanting to explore the Black Forest. Founded in 1120 as a free market town, it is humming with wine connoisseurs and university students, architecture fans and witch-hunters. Well, to be honest, the witch-hunters have long gone, but the fact that there were witches here to be hunted is kind of exciting. Not for the witches who were hunted of course...I digress.

Historical Merchant's Hall

Beginning in the 1200's, and continuing on for centuries, Freiburg was a bustling town of free trade and merchant deals, as buyers and sellers made this the financial hub of the region due to its strategic position between the Mediterranean and North Seas, and its connection to the Rhine and Danube Rivers.

Freiburg Münster - a medieval cathedral

In the heart of the city, is the Freiburg Münster, an imposing medieval gothic cathedral which took over 300 years to build. Can you imagine what a thankless job it was building this, knowing even your grandchildren's children won't be seeing the finished product?

But, it does have one of the most spectacular entrances that I have ever seen. The colours and detail on every figure is awe-inspiring, not to mention the huge double wooden doors which are about two-stories high. In this case, taking their time really paid off for the (many) architects.

The Freiburg Minster has the only German gothic church tower completed in the Middle Ages and still standing today, surviving countless numbers of wars and weather. Impressively, the Minster began as a Romanesque cathedral, but ended up as Gothic.

Another interesting, and whimsical feature of Freiburg's old town is its system of Bächle. These narrow streams flow throughout the pedestrian area, and also date back to the Middle Ages when they were used to feed livestock and put out fires. They have always had fresh water running through them, and I was very happy to hear that they were never used for sewage!

Much of Freiburg's impressive buildings were somehow spared during the WWII bombing raids, including the two commanding city gates, the Schabentor and the older Martinstor. There are wooden beams in the Martinstor that date back to 1202!

Martinstor - one Freiburg's original gates

And it serves as surely one of McDonald's most impressive locations. Sigh.

But, now back to Christmas. I was visiting my dear friend, who moved to Freiburg a year ago, and had heard (from pretty much every German I know) how pretty Freiburg is and how wonderfully dreamy its Christmas market is. Germans are no liars.

I suggest, for anyone wanting to photograph a Christmas market, to go at dusk or just before dusk. That is when the lights are on, but it's not too dark to get the details in the photographs. And, because you should actually enjoy the market, leave the tripod at home.

One wonderful constant at every German Christmas market is glorious Glüwein (hot mulled wine). I love it. Red, white, rosé...it's all perfection.

And on this early December evening, our not-too-few mugs of steaming, sweet, but tart wine helped us to forget that it was pretty darn cold outside.

At many traditional German Christmas markets you will still find locally, handcrafted decorations and ornaments. Sometimes you do have to look hard , and possibly even ask if the items are made in China or Germany, but in Freiburg it was quick and easy to find the real things.

These gorgeous, tiny pewter tree ornaments were so lovely and authentic, made just around the corner, that I had to buy one.

There is also an assortment of great things to eat, including sausages from the region in all kinds of delicious flavours. These make a great treat to bring back home.

But, what we were really excited about was the Christmas market version of Raclette which isn't found at too many German Christmas markets, at least not at any I have been to.

Raclette is actually a Swiss meal (Freiburg is just 70 kms from the Swiss border), and revolves around Racelette cheese. The wheel of this alpine cheese is melted and then scraped onto potatoes and onions, often including various meats and pickles. It is yummy. Bergkäse (alpine cheese) is something you just need to try...it's so full of flavour that you don't really need much more than that.

Pretty much no European Christmas market is complete without a Striezel stand. This cone-shaped sweet bread coated in sugar and cinnamon, or almonds and cocoa, has a different name in practically every country, but the idea is the same. It's delish.

As the evening grew darker the warm glow of the lights blanketed the cobblestoned streets of the old town and the atmosphere was festive and joyful. Okay, maybe it was the glüwein warming the thousands of revellers, but hey, we were all out together enjoying the fact that it's Christmastime...a time to be together, to give of each other and be thankful for the most important gifts.

Some people have a harder time than others being joyful in a crowd, but I'm sure the Santa hat helps.

And so that no one loses sight of the real reason most of us are celebrating Christmas, the German markets pretty much always have a large nativity scene set up. This one in Freiburg was almost life-size and so pretty, but I had to really fight the urge to jump in and cover up baby Jesus. A real baby would've been screaming his brains out on that cold night. Maybe Jesus wouldn't have.

So, in these pre-Christmas weeks, I want to wish you wonderful moments with cherished friends and family. I will spend these days trying to visit more markets, one of my favourite things to do at this time of year, while appreciating the many blessings that I am surrounded by. Cheers, my friends!

a little light christmas (market) magic...

If someone tells you that you should check out Germany at Christmastime listen. Or just listen to me. Do it. Go. You'll love it.

Every year, since moving to Germany, I've tried to visit new Christmas markets, some far and some near. This December, I stuck closer to home...so here are 5 enchanting Christmas markets close to Frankfurt, that are my favourites.

Frankfurt

Let me start with Frankfurt. The city's historic centre, which is interesting at any time of year, comes to life when it's lit up with the warm ochre glow of twinkle lights. The central market is set up under the view of Frankfurt's 600-year-old city hall, the Römer.

As is standard at most of Germany's Christmas markets, you will find ample mulled wine (glüwein) stands, potato pancakes and bratwurst kiosks, artisans selling wooden crafts, jewellery and an assortment of other gift items.

But, you will also be able to experience specialty items...sometimes gourmet, sometimes whimsical, to either eat, drink or gift to someone you love. In Frankfurt, I stumbled across a Swiss fondue stand, smelling heavenly with the strong scent of Gruyere and Emmental simmering in huge bronze cauldrons. Served with large chunks of fresh sourdough bread, this was an unexpected Christmas treat!

Wiesbaden

Just half an hour west of Frankfurt lies the elegant city of Wiesbaden. Their Christmas market is called the Sternschnuppenmarkt, which is sweetly translated into 'Shooting Star Market'. The state flower is the lily and huge lit blooms hover over the market stands, lighting the way each evening in December for friends to meet for an after-work glüwein.

Many Christmas markets in Germany offer specialty glüwein mugs which easily turn into collector items. Sometimes medieval terracotta goblets, other times painted ceramics, in shapes of boots or St. Nicholas heads; each year these mugs, filled with steaming wine or cider, add an element of hygge to an already enchanting setting.

I spent one Thursday evening with co-workers at the Wiesbaden Christmas market in the city's main square, and it was the perfect location to kick-off the season of peace, tranquility and friendship.

Mainz

On the south banks of the Rhine River you will find one of my absolute favourite Christmas markets. Under the impressive Mainzer Dome cathedral, the market spreads across the centre square underneath a blanket of twinkle lights. This market is always packed full of parka-clad revellers come rain or shine because the setting just feels so magical.

The people of Mainz LOVE their city, their football (soccer) team, their wine and their wurst. This is one of the two hubs of German carnival and the largest city (but still quite small) in Germany's largest wine region. The folk are proud and they celebrate their city almost every weekend with wine festivals of all shapes and sizes. Their Christmas market is no different. It is beloved.

Just beyond the dome you will find the oldest parts of the city, with rows of half-timbered houses decorated with large bows, lights and mistletoe. The first time I visited Mainz, it was a week before Christmas, and there was powdered sugar-dusting of snow on the cobblestoned lanes of the Altstadt (old town). I remember telling my bf that I felt like I had walked onto the film set of a Christmas movie. It had seemed so surreal, so beautiful, and I had felt so blessed to be there at Christmas.

Rüdesheim

Further down the Rhine, about an hour south-west of Frankfurt, nestled between the river and the hills of Germany's finest Riesling vineyards, is Rüdesheim. This is a town which is very popular with tourists. It is beyond cute...almost too cute. And it's Christmas market doesn't disappoint.

Down the narrowest of cobbled lanes, the Drosselgasse is the star attraction of the town. Authentic (and some not so quite) handcrafted Christmas ornaments and wooden nativity scenes line the gasse (lane) interchanged with wine taverns and quaint restaurants offering all the hearty German fare one can dream of.

Out in the town square a larger than life nativity sits among the wine and food stands, competing for the attention of the many visitors. But, what I love about Rüdesheim is that you can find wichtels (German elves) in almost every shop window. They are the cutest things about a German Christmas, in my opinion, and whether ceramic or felt, with long beards or pointed hats, they add an element of elegant whimsy to the season...

for all ages of child.

A Moselle Christmas 

If you're in Frankfurt and you have the time, I would highly suggest taking a day trip to the Moselle River. At any time of year this winding river valley is speckled with the quaintest, most lovely historic wine towns. But, at Christmas, these towns turn into a fairytale.

Bernkastel-Kues

On one of the looping twists of the river, amid terraced hills of lush grapes and castle ruins, is the tiny town of Bernkastel-Kues. In the small main square an advent calendar comes to life on the facade of the largest half-timbered building. Musicians play below, while visitors stop, stare, and take lots of pics. It's difficult to put into words how even the smallest details create a capricious feeling in the air.

Traben-Trarbach's Underground Magic

But if you want whimsy and magic, then the Moselle town of Traben-Trarbach is your place at Christmas. Another historic wine town, once one of the richest areas of Europe, dating back to the Roman Empire, this town does Christmas underground. Through a maze of connected wine cellars and caverns, long aisles of vaulted ceilings, some with antique wine casks, others with Christmas wares of handicrafts, wine or food, this is just another incredible Christmas market to get lost in. 

Wine cellar market

Wherever you find yourself this Christmas, whether in Germany or not, I wish you a peaceful, reflective and thankful season filled with love and family and, well, wine!

Merry Christmas to all and to all a goodnight!

a meatier kind of Christmas market...be our guest.

If you like meat, the Budapest Christmas market is the place to be! Located just steps away from the Danube, in the old city, the market is intimate and delicious and ever so inviting.

Every Christmas market visit, whether you're in Germany, France, Hungary or Finland, starts with Glüwein, Glögg, or Forralt Bor...whatever it's called, it's always a yummy must! Mulled wine (in Hungarian it's called forralt bor = boiled wine) is very common in pretty much all northern European countries during the cold winter.

Personally, I love it, and it makes standing in the cold just plum wonderful. It is usually made by warming red wine, along with a mixture of cloves, sugar, sticks of cinnamon and slices of oranges. In Hungary, it is most commonly made using Egri Bikavér, a popular locally-made red wine.

Toltott kaposzta or Cabbage Rolls, to all of us English speakers, is a mainstay of most homes and restaurants in Hungary, and there's a reason why...they are delish.

Almost every stand at the market had heaps of meat, grilled, boiled, skewered. A true meat-lover's paradise.

And there were almost as many goulash soup booths, scooped out of heavy ceramic cauldrons and served in sourdough bread bowls. Goulash soup is the most popular Hungarian dish made outside of Hungary, and on this night, it was the perfect warm meal for us.

A Classical Hungarian Goulash Recipe (Alföldi Gulyás)

Ingredients (for 4 persons)

• 600 g beef shin or shoulder, or any tender part of the beef cut into 2 x 2 cm cubes

• 2 tablespoons oil or lard

• 2 medium onions, chopped

• 2 cloves of garlic

• 1-2 carrots, diced

• 1 parsnip, diced

• 1-2 celery leaves

• 2 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped, or 1 tbs. tomato paste

• 2 fresh green peppers

• 2-3 medium potatoes, sliced

• 1 tablespoon Hungarian paprika powder (sweet)

• 1 teaspoon ground caraway seed

• 1 bay leaf

• ground black pepper and salt according to taste

• water
 
(Recipe source: Budapest by Locals)

The pig-on-a-spit is a Christmas market staple throughout Europe, but in Hungary this is the meaning of BBQ. The meat is served alongside grilled vegetables or inbetween two sides of a bun.

What I found most interesting was the beautiful presentation of the food. Large flat ceramic dishes were filled with freshly grilled or sliced meats, vibrant paprikas and other veggies sauteed on long open grills and huge pots sat waiting with steaming hearty soups, stews or wine.

Everything is displayed directly in front of the visitors' noses, homemade and fresh to be as enticing as possible. It is like being a guest in the cook's kitchen.

And of course, in Budapest, instead of ornaments, sausages hang on the tree (well, on this one anyways.). Merry Christmas and all the best for the coming year!