I'm standing amidst ten-metre tall lemon trees, snapping photos, inhaling deeply and trying to take in every inch of this place. Dark green leaves, give way to mango-sized, bright yellow lemons, that are just hanging around.
I have fallen in love with lemons...and Alberto. I lean my head back, running my eyes along the strong Acacia timbers embracing each tree in a protective frame; as if strong arms are cradling each lemony-full branch. These trees, some nearly 100-years old, producing hundreds of lemons a year, have become my obsession. We are in an old lemon greenhouse, Alberto and I.
I would love to say that I was alone with Alberto, that he only had eyes for me, and that we've run off together like in a movie, but that would be a lie. First off, I was with my mädels (my group of girlfriends who I hang out and travel with) and so I had to share Alberto's attention with them (sigh). Secondly, he's Italian, enough said. But a girl can dream. I'm getting carried away though. The Italian names send my mind into flights of fantasy. Alberto. Much more romantic than the actual man standing in front of us (he was about 68). But, as Alberto, his richly tanned and wrinkle-eyed face, animated and gentle, proudly showed us a childhood photo of him holding a crop of lemons, I fell head over heals....for lemons.
"Lemons were gold", Alberto told us, "after the war when there was nothing here in Limone." This is a town perched on the edge of Lake Garda, Italy's largest lake, omniously being pushed by the mountains from behind. This area had been hit hard during WWII - very little was left, but the greenhouse and lemon trees survived. After the war, four lemons would buy a kilo of flour and a kilo of sugar; seven lemons would buy you a trip across the lake.
Even before the war, each young soldier would be given three lemons a day, to ward off diseases such as scurvy. Alberto's passion for lemons has rubbed off on us, as if a slight lemon breeze was swirling around us. We stand above the greenhouse and absorb the view.
It is market day in Malcesine, so we decide to have a look, crossing the lake on a tourist-filled ferry. We don't need to use lemons.
Vendors are here, offering every type of leather article you can think of, along with sunglasses, scarves, jewellery. Small shops dot the passages where you can find cheeses, pasta, olive oils, pestos, many delicious flavours of gelato...
and Luciano. As we amble through narrow, cobbled lanes, we come across a very small studio. Three of us veer off from the rest to have a peek in the dark, crowded room. Eyes, hands, breasts, backs, trees, mouths, water greet us from photos covering every inch of wall space. Beauty. Then all of a sudden, I feel a hand on my shoulder. I turn as a small man repeats quickly, "I touch, I touch, I touch". It is Luciano. I stand still, hoping this unusual situation will change before I need to react. What does he mean? The thought crosses my mind, "is this how he recruits his subjects?" But, in the end, it turns out all Luciano wanted was to squeeze past me...his English really needs improvement.
After us girls share a light lunch of platto freddo della casa and prosecco, we cross back to Limone.
Towards evening, after we have freshened up and gotten fancy (more white pants and maxi dress, less bikinis and shorts), we make our way up the steep, narrow streets, above Limone, towards Osteria Livino...and Francesco.
Through the Guardian newspaper, I received this geheimtipp (insider tip); a rustic garden restaurant dotted with olive trees, serving down-home Italian excellence, high up on the mountain.
Francesco did not disappoint. Homemade spinach-ricotta ravioli in a sage butter sauce (yu-um, let me tell you), fresh spaghetti carbonara like I could never make at home (gg's favourite meal), and bruschetta, antipasta, and cheeses; along with an Italian World Cup soccer match. Bueno!
Later when I stole a moment of Francesco's time, stealing him away into a dark corner....sorry, again, the name carries me away into a fantasy far exceeding any reality. Let me start again: Later when I stole a moment of Francesco's time, as he quickly poured one beer after another for a thirsty table, he told me that the osteria had been in his family for a long time. He had grown up among the pasta-making, serving, laughter and hard-work; eventually taking it over from his father twelve years ago. Mementoes of labour from long ago dot the osteria's gardens.
Food has been an almost constant subject during our days in Italy; as anyone who has been here has already experienced. The Italians know how to eat well. Before we left, I made sure to duck into a macellaio and buy the perfect souvenier for great guy: Sopressata salame.
And for your sweet-tooth, gelato won't be your only poison here. The lightest, lemoniest cookies scream your name as you pass by. You will need to introduce yourself to: Brutta Ma Buoni, Amaretti, and Crumiri (just to name a few). Oh, the names...makes me salivate just typing them.
As evening moves into night, we amble back down the hill amidst laughter and selfies, towards Garni Gian Martin...and Giovanni.
Located in Piazza Garibaldi, the centre of Limone, Giovanni, his brother and father have worked hard over the past eight years to build up their small, perfect boutique hotel.
If you're looking for comfort, cleanliness and a giovanni...this is where you need to be. He will grant all of your wishes, as he repeatedly mentioned to us!
From slow, early morning jogs along the lakeshore to lemoncello nightcaps before bed and with all sorts of delicious sights and sounds in between, Limone satisfied all of my senses. From now on great guy has a new name: Francesco. Bella Italia!
P.S. When life gives you lemons, find your giovanni, alberto or francesco and squeeze tightly.
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