inglewood...calgary's first (and coolest?) neighbourhood

Calgary's 9th Avenue, in the city's south-east Inglewood is the original main street. Located just east of the iconic island of office towers in downtown, Inglewood grew out of bustling Fort Calgary, the city's first settlement built in 1875.

The fort and Inglewood, respectively, were established in the heart of Blackfoot territory, on what is now Treaty 7's Camp Mohkinstsis, meaning 'Where the Elbow meets the Bow' (firstnationsdrum.com).

On the banks of the Elbow, across from Calgary's busy downtown, you will find the oldest structure in Calgary known as the Hunt House, built in 1876 and part of the Hudson's Bay Company (Canada's oldest company, fur trading since 1670). On the same property not far away you will also find the Métis Cabin, a similar structure from the same decade.

Look across the street and you will see refurbished warehouses hosting art galleries, architecture firms, hot yoga and cool stores. My favourite is Fair's Fair (for Booklovers - their slogan, not mine)...a paradise for anyone who is, well, a book lover. You will most probably get lost in this mammoth used book store.

But, what most Calgarians identify Inglewood with is music. There are some now-classic venues supporting independant, home-grown and not-so-local musicians and songwriters, such as the Blues Can, Ironwood, Festival Hall and the Nash. Even though singers now (currently) need to sing in the 'aquarium' to protect patrons, the sound and vibe is still the same.

The Ironwood Stage & Grill moved to the old Garry Theatre, which opened as a motion picture house in 1936, becoming the Loose Moose theatre (many a time spent watching improv there in my youth!) in the late '70's, and a decade ago transforming into its current manifestation.

In this very walkable neighbourhood, there are many businesses which have become Calgary institutions, whose home has seemingly forever been Inglewood. One of the first (paid) events I ever planned was twenty years ago this summer, a 50th surpise party at Kane's Harley Diner. The vibe in there was perfect for a '50's-themed party, and not at all cheesy.

Nowhere is the dichotomy between young and old, vintage and modern as strikingly represented as in Inglewood. The neighbourhood has, in my opinion, masterfully renewed, re-energized, and re-invigorated what was once a very run-down, neglected part of the city, by combining the historic, original flair with contemporary elements...infills neighbouring originals...

fashionable, yet unique boutiques like Antiquaire or Espy (my new favourite) alongside...

quaint, rustic shops...where a baby lies on a blanket in the middle of the shop, the owner sells you her book of Victorian flowers which was actually just meant for decoration, and you leave with your arms overflowing (which really isn't the plan while doing research)...

and whimsical, yet utilitarian. Is there anything more iconic than Crowne Surplus? I have always loved popping in here, picking up something random for my brother like paracord (only the real stuff!). It's like a museum. It is a museum.

Don't forget to eat in Inglewood...or just drink. There is an incredible variety of excellent options from cafés to pubs to Mexican, Italian, drive-in, and high-end. I have a hard time choosing what I'm in the mood for when I'm in Inglewood...because I want everything here! Do I want coffee at Gravity, or a beer at the Hose & Hound, Chips & Salsa with a side of Vanilla Stoli at the Blues Can, or breakfast at Delightful? So many choices.

But if you want to head to the beginning of it all (well almost, 1906), and possibly chat with a ghost, then reserve a table at The Deane House. Lying on the banks of the Elbow River, with a view of the Calgary Tower and the Saddledome, this historic building was once a part of Fort Calgary until it was rolled over the river in 1929 in a feat of engineering, to its new home.

 

Craft breweries have popped up here in the past few years (haven't they everywhere), creating a new, chill vibe on a couple of Inglewood's older corners.

And, of course, mainstays like Calgary favourites Spolumbo's Fine Foods & Deli, or the landmark Inglewood Drive-In which you pass as you head over the bridge to the zoo, or another historic dining establishment, Rouge, are yummy options for a full or near-empty wallet, and for many a different tastebud. When it's open, I can't stay away from The Swan public house. It could possibly be my favourite pub...in the whole world.

In any new city, and on many a blog post, I highly recommend taking a walk off the main street to see how the locals live, and that is no different here. Wander off of 9th Ave, in either direction, and stroll among the houses to get a feel of home here. In Inglewood the houses are still unique and interesting, sometimes eclectic, but always different from their neighbour. There is no cookie-cutter pattern here featuring some designer 'look'. The 'look' is the design of Inglewood...and it creates an atmosphere of authenticity which personally I love.

The buildings and homes are as "well-rounded", shall we say, "street-wise" as its citizens, and in all honestly, it's not always pretty. You might just see a drug deal going down on one of the side streets, or a shady character or two, and oh the sirens...there are lots of sirens. This isn't the suburbs (thank God!) and it's never boring. But, it is safe, which is always important to this particular, mostly-solo, female traveller.

Inglewood is nestled in the armpit of the Elbow and Bow Rivers, where they join up to flow happily ever after together (unless they flood, then it's not so happy). There is a beautiful river pathway following the Bow from far in the north, through downtown and along Inglewood's leafy edge. There are rafters, dog-walkers, stroller-pushers, Canadian Geese (many) and a bike or two.

It's the perfect place to experience Calgary's history, modern vibe and the doorway into the great outdoors. Start here, in Inglewood, and go forth into the wild frontier, just like they did back in the day...but use a bike instead of a horse, that's what I do.

If you go:

• take the time to eat.
  
• you can park for free for up to 2 hours practically on every street, an amazing thing in Calgary.
  
• don't miss visiting Kensington, Calgary's first suburb...also very cool, and just minutes away - follow the Bow River upstream and make a right :)

camden, london...a day of canal walks, the market, and charming hampstead

A lovely day in Camden Borough

...starting with a walk along Regent's Canal

Three weeks ago I spent a lovely London day exploring a part of the city which I didn't know...Camden Borough. I started the morning off with a walk along Regent's Canal, beginning just around the corner from Pancras Station, and heading towards Camden Town.

Along the narrow canal, I loved checking out the many whimsical houseboats, viewing the interesting waterfront architecture, and snapping the cute tunnel paths.

The Regent's Canal walk gets leafier and more colourful the closer you get to Camden Town and the market area.

The street art on tunnel underpasses, shopfronts, and stairwells is fascinating along the walk. Politically motivated (aka. Banksy) or social commentary or just plain artful, I loved the graffiti and took tons of photos.

Banksy's Missile Girl

Since moving to the Rhine over nine years ago, I have become obsessed with boat names. Some are inspiring, beautiful or just funny, and I often wonder about why the family aboard gave that vessel her name. Here, along the canal, it was no different. Promise. Hope. Molly Anna. Little Drifter. Some are homes, some are cafes, and one is even a bookstore.

I met up with a friend along the canal for a delicious Venezualan lunch at Arepas. We ate scrumptious Pernil Arepas and Cachapas (braised pork shoulder, avocado, pico de gallo, spicy mayo, onions and fresh herbs), the first a corn flour cake, the second a pancake version...both excellent, good value and so filling.

Arepas

Hampstead Town

An 8-minute ride on the Northern line from Camden Town and you're in Hampstead Town. This charming community boasts London's deepest underground platform (58 metres), gorgeous lanes and alleyways in every direction, and a very impressive list of affluence and celebrity making their home here.

I decided to check out some little antique shops along the high street. Similar to visiting garage sales or flea markets, antique shops show a side of local life that you don't normally get to see as a tourist. Antique stores hold essentially the junk of the wealthy, those items they don't want or have a use for anymore. I like that...and so I picked up an old tea cup and saucer, probably once owned by a super rich person :) When in Rome...

I took A Lady in London's advice and walked her favourite lanes in Hampstead Town: Church Row, Holly Walk, Flask Walk and Mansfield Place. Perfect recommendation. These take you on a beautiful tour of the residential area, up hills and past quaint (but surely expensive) cottages, boutique hotels and hidden pubs.

Church Row

Hampstead became fashionable in the 1700's due to its healing waters, causing upper class families to flock here. Over the following centuries, many in the intellectual, literary and art communities also made their homes in Hampstead, even though the town couldn't keep up its spa reputation against places like Bath and Cheltenham.

Holly Walk

At the top of Holly Walk you will find nice views over Hampstead's rooftops. You can't see the Heath, but it's close. Hampstead Heath is London's largest ancient parkland, according to Wikipedia, and has a great London lookout point from Parliament Hill.

I always photograph tiles like the one below, which hang above a house's front entrance. You will find these all over Europe, and as far as I understand it, they date back to the middle ages before there were house numbers, to let visitors know who the home's inhabitants were. In this case, did a polo player once live here...although polo came to London at a much later date.

Richard Burton, Aldous Huxley, John Keats, Sigmund Freud, John Constable and George Michael all made Hampstead their home, because of its proximity to London City, but its exclusive village feel. Fun fact, Hampstead has more millionaires than any other area in the UK. Whoa.

Flask Walk

I took my time meandering through the gorgeous lanes, taking photos of the interesting homes here, and enjoying a rare sunny January morning.

Mansfield Place

Then back toward High Street, where cute boutiques, cafes and pubs abound. It's the perfect place for a rest stop...a flat white or a pint, or afternoon tea.

And, this lady above one shop intrigued me. I don't know what she signifies, but the imagination could run wild about what stories this building might be able to tell...if only it could talk.

Then back to the centre of town and the tube station. By early afternoon I was ready to go back to Camden Town to explore the market and have a drink.

Camden Town & Camden Lock Market

Walking from the tube station toward Camden Lock Market feels light years away from the small-town vibe of Hampstead just 10 minutes away. It felt I had landed in 1980's New York or present day Berlin. Cool people of all walks of life are here to be seen. It is colourful and, anything but boring.

The market has a complicated history, and has changed and redefined itself many times over the past few hundred years. Its current state, since 1974 and called Camden Lock Market, boasts 28 million visitors a year! Although the actual Camden lock is not in use anymore, there are 3 dual locks on the canal which runs along the market area.

Camden Market includes the Stables Market, which is a covered series of large 'rooms' which once housed the Pickfords Stables and Horse Hospital dating back to the 1700's. The horses at Pickfords were responsible for pulling the barges up the canals, until the invention of the automobile changed the company into a van and lorry business.

Outside of the market I walked along Chalk Farm Road, looking for a bakery that was on my list to visit and taking many a pic along the way.

Soon enough, I found Luminary Bakery's Chalk Farm location. The staff were lovely, the atmosphere lively, and my scone incredibly good. I really like the story and continued mission of Luminary, which provides training and a supportive workplace for women needing a bit of sunshine in their life. I will be going back there whenever I'm in the city.

Luminary Bakery

And, to close, here is my number 1 tip for new visitors to London: skip the hop on-hop off buses and get an Oyster card and ride the real red double-decker buses! They cost a fraction and get you everywhere you want to go with the exact same view as the tourist buses. And, even if you're not quite sure where you're going, just get on and take in the views of this great city. That's what I do!

If you go:

-first of all, check out A Lady in London's blog for tips, ideas, great photos and guides to everything London. That's what I do. www.aladyinlondon.com

-get an Oyster Card for the tube and bus network. It's so easy to use, easy to load and way cheaper than any other mode of transportation. You'll get the hang of the tube in no time!

-like any city which is popular with tourists, try to find spots for tea and pub lunches and great eats where the locals go. London is expensive at any time so going where the locals go will ensure that you're getting the most for your buck (pound).