freiburg...christmas spirit in the black forest

In Germany's Black Forest, so-called because of its dense, dark pines, you can spend hours or days hiking amongst gnomes and wood fairies, howling wolves and vampires. Surely, none of these things actually exist here, but I don't find it difficult for a minute to imagine they do.

The Black Forest is bordered to the west by the mighty Rhine in Germany's south-west, can wave branches to France and Switzerland, and is a beloved tourist destination for hiking, spa-ing, and cuckoo-clocking. Here is where tradition lives...and is loved.

The Black Forest inpires moments of wandering along pine-scented hiking trails, enjoying cozy, firelit evenings with steaming cups of anything, and relishing sumptuous food with names like Spätzle, Knöpfle, Gugelhupf and of course, Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte (Black Forest Cake).

Käse Spätzle (cheese noodles)

But, the Black Forest can also really do Christmas. In its largest city, Freiburg, the advent spirit of twinkle lights and mulled wine, the manger and St. Nick, children singing and adults shopping is a well-lived tradition.

Freiburg is a very old city, and even without the Christmas flair, is a beloved tourist destination for people wanting to explore the Black Forest. Founded in 1120 as a free market town, it is humming with wine connoisseurs and university students, architecture fans and witch-hunters. Well, to be honest, the witch-hunters have long gone, but the fact that there were witches here to be hunted is kind of exciting. Not for the witches who were hunted of course...I digress.

Historical Merchant's Hall

Beginning in the 1200's, and continuing on for centuries, Freiburg was a bustling town of free trade and merchant deals, as buyers and sellers made this the financial hub of the region due to its strategic position between the Mediterranean and North Seas, and its connection to the Rhine and Danube Rivers.

Freiburg Münster - a medieval cathedral

In the heart of the city, is the Freiburg Münster, an imposing medieval gothic cathedral which took over 300 years to build. Can you imagine what a thankless job it was building this, knowing even your grandchildren's children won't be seeing the finished product?

But, it does have one of the most spectacular entrances that I have ever seen. The colours and detail on every figure is awe-inspiring, not to mention the huge double wooden doors which are about two-stories high. In this case, taking their time really paid off for the (many) architects.

The Freiburg Minster has the only German gothic church tower completed in the Middle Ages and still standing today, surviving countless numbers of wars and weather. Impressively, the Minster began as a Romanesque cathedral, but ended up as Gothic.

Another interesting, and whimsical feature of Freiburg's old town is its system of Bächle. These narrow streams flow throughout the pedestrian area, and also date back to the Middle Ages when they were used to feed livestock and put out fires. They have always had fresh water running through them, and I was very happy to hear that they were never used for sewage!

Much of Freiburg's impressive buildings were somehow spared during the WWII bombing raids, including the two commanding city gates, the Schabentor and the older Martinstor. There are wooden beams in the Martinstor that date back to 1202!

Martinstor - one Freiburg's original gates

And it serves as surely one of McDonald's most impressive locations. Sigh.

But, now back to Christmas. I was visiting my dear friend, who moved to Freiburg a year ago, and had heard (from pretty much every German I know) how pretty Freiburg is and how wonderfully dreamy its Christmas market is. Germans are no liars.

I suggest, for anyone wanting to photograph a Christmas market, to go at dusk or just before dusk. That is when the lights are on, but it's not too dark to get the details in the photographs. And, because you should actually enjoy the market, leave the tripod at home.

One wonderful constant at every German Christmas market is glorious Glüwein (hot mulled wine). I love it. Red, white, rosé...it's all perfection.

And on this early December evening, our not-too-few mugs of steaming, sweet, but tart wine helped us to forget that it was pretty darn cold outside.

At many traditional German Christmas markets you will still find locally, handcrafted decorations and ornaments. Sometimes you do have to look hard , and possibly even ask if the items are made in China or Germany, but in Freiburg it was quick and easy to find the real things.

These gorgeous, tiny pewter tree ornaments were so lovely and authentic, made just around the corner, that I had to buy one.

There is also an assortment of great things to eat, including sausages from the region in all kinds of delicious flavours. These make a great treat to bring back home.

But, what we were really excited about was the Christmas market version of Raclette which isn't found at too many German Christmas markets, at least not at any I have been to.

Raclette is actually a Swiss meal (Freiburg is just 70 kms from the Swiss border), and revolves around Racelette cheese. The wheel of this alpine cheese is melted and then scraped onto potatoes and onions, often including various meats and pickles. It is yummy. Bergkäse (alpine cheese) is something you just need to try...it's so full of flavour that you don't really need much more than that.

Pretty much no European Christmas market is complete without a Striezel stand. This cone-shaped sweet bread coated in sugar and cinnamon, or almonds and cocoa, has a different name in practically every country, but the idea is the same. It's delish.

As the evening grew darker the warm glow of the lights blanketed the cobblestoned streets of the old town and the atmosphere was festive and joyful. Okay, maybe it was the glüwein warming the thousands of revellers, but hey, we were all out together enjoying the fact that it's Christmastime...a time to be together, to give of each other and be thankful for the most important gifts.

Some people have a harder time than others being joyful in a crowd, but I'm sure the Santa hat helps.

And so that no one loses sight of the real reason most of us are celebrating Christmas, the German markets pretty much always have a large nativity scene set up. This one in Freiburg was almost life-size and so pretty, but I had to really fight the urge to jump in and cover up baby Jesus. A real baby would've been screaming his brains out on that cold night. Maybe Jesus wouldn't have.

So, in these pre-Christmas weeks, I want to wish you wonderful moments with cherished friends and family. I will spend these days trying to visit more markets, one of my favourite things to do at this time of year, while appreciating the many blessings that I am surrounded by. Cheers, my friends!

springtime in the alps part I: Berchtesgaden...the perfect long weekend getaway

There is an enchanting place tucked away into Germany's most south-eastern tip. Just a fast 2-hour drive from Munich, through rolling hills and cute villages, lies the Berchtesgadener Land. This unassuming place, and its people, is like the gorgeous girl next door who doesn't know how beautiful she is. And not that the people who grew up here (my father included) don't appreciate its beauty, with mountains greeting them each morning, guiding them to and from school, it's that they are too busy living the grandest outdoor lives...come snow, come sun.

 

Bordering Austria, the line between the two countries is barely noticeable through mountaintops and forest trees. Amongst these alpine villages nobody much cares about the politics of a borderline.

This is the perfect place for solitude, the purest air, and good, clean hiking fun. In the spring, the snow's retreat leaves the greenest alpine pastures and cosiest mountain huts laying out their welcome mats.

Berchtesgaden is just 30 minutes away from Salzburg, which along with the numerous historical and tradition-rich sights in the area, will leave even the non-hikers with plenty to do.

There is a real personable quality that the Bavarian mountain folk have...possibly it's found in all mountain folk.  Doors are open, coffee invitations are freely given, and hard work and hard play is as routine and ordinary as the German train timetable.

But, since this is still Germany, everything is spotless...homes, farms, fields and gardens are immaculately cared for, with traditional touches, making it all oh so pretty.

Home town girl...my aunt leading the way.

HIKING:

With a national park covering more than 200 square kilometres, and mountains towering towards 2500 metres, your wandering opportunities are endless. Your best bet is to visit the tourist information and get a hiking map to plan out your day tours.

One excellent tour close to Berchtesgaden is through the Almbach Klamm (ravine). When you come out on top you are greeted with this sight - the 'Maria Heimsuchung' (Maria searching for home) Church. It's well worth the climb.

In Germany, the hiking (wandering) trails almost always lead through farmer's pastures, which I love. It brings you up close and personal to people's lives without being intrusive. And at the top of basically every mountain top or alpine meadow you will surely find a gastwirtschaft (a small pub)...for a drink or two.

A weizen bier or a radler (beer with lemonade) will be the best thing you'll have ever tasted. Trust me. Delicious. A meal in itself.

Ahh...these two clowns. My bf and pa.

DRIVING:

The alpine roads here, while treacherous during some times of the year, provide the most incredible scenery. The Rossfeld Panorama Strasse (Road), is the highest continuous road in Germany. Before WWII took over my grandfather's life, he was one of the civil engineers on the building team.

Pack a picnic and take a little road trip through the mountains...stopping whenever you want. I like springtime here the best, because it's warm enough to wander without a jacket, but snow still lays out like it's enjoying its last days of vacation before going home for the summer.

BERCHTESGADEN:

The town of Berchtesgaden is shadowed by the Watzmann, Germany's 3rd hightest mountain. In the winter skiers flood the villages, and in the summer, skis are replaced by carabiners and climbing ropes.

But aside from the impressive outdoor activities it supports, Berchtesgaden is also an incredibly picturesque town. The Schlossplatz (palace square) is surrounded by the pale pink walls of the palace. Houses are painted in all shades of pastel, while overflowing flower boxes sag under the weight of bright geraniums hanging from almost every window.

Traditional Bavarian folk painting adorns houses, often telling opulent, dramatic stories. I tried to figure out the meaning of the series of pictures on the house below, but art is sometimes difficult to decipher. I would hazard a guess that it's a parody...turning things as they are, upside down. Or it might be a very politically-incorrect statement piece. Or it just might be pretty.

This area brims with WWII history. Hitler loved the Berchtesgadener Land and spent a lot of time on the mountainside above Berchtesgaden. He built his Eagle's Nest here, strategized with his cronies here in his Berghof, and his SS troups had a large camp here. Now, there is a very detailed documentation centre on the Obersalzberg - a kind of museum to all that went down in this area. It's hard to take in at times, but really important to do. You can even enter the massive bunker system.

RAMSAU at KÖNIGSSEE:

One of the most photographed Bavarian scenes, the St. Sebastian Church of Ramsau, is found 20 minutes east of Berchtesgaden. You need to stop, take a photo, and take a breath. Also, take a walk through the cemetary gardens behind the church...it's like no cemetary you'll find in North America.

Königssee is filled with tourists, many of whom stop to buy (or at least try on) a traditional dirndl or lederhosen. I didn't buy mine here, but trust me when I say, a dirndl is one comfortable dress!

A very deep, natural mountain lake, Königssee is very popular with hikers and daytrippers. Boat cruises, waterfalls, an island church and many watering holes in the village entertain young and old easily.

SALZBURG:

Directly 25 km north of Berchtesgaden, but on the Austrian side, is the incredible city of Salzburg. With an impressive white burg (castle) as its central focal point, the touring of historical monuments (ie. Mozart's house) around the town centre will easily fill a good part of the day.

The baroque Salzburger Dom is right below the castle walls and well worth a pop inside. Built in the 17th century, its ceiling is magnificent, with the most incredible detail.

But, my favourite part of Salzburg (it's not the Sound of Music tour - which I've never been on), is the horse well (Pferdeschwemmer) located in the Altstadt (old town). Every time I'm in this city, I make for this gorgeous piece of art. The huge frescos were painted in 1732 by Josef Ebner, and the central statue created by Michael Mandl. Back in the day, the Austrian prince stabled his horses here, but now it's all just for show. A perfect show in my opinion.

Planning a long weekend, or a long trip, to this small corner of the world is a treat. You won't be disappointed. I'm already planning my next trip...this time in fall! Servus!

sun series #1 - the coast of andalucia

About as rare as finding a diamond peeking out from a grassy field in summer is seeing the winter sun above the Rhine. So, to pummel the January blues, I want to share with you a place where the sun rules. If you like ocean and sun, fish and mountains, sand and surfing (of any kind) then you will like these things to do in Andalucia, the Costa de la Luz - southern Spain's Coast of Light.

From the historically-rich city of Cadiz, the Atlantic shoreline cuts a toffifee-coloured line down to the most southern tip of the European continent and the surfing mecca of Tarifa. All along the Costa de la Luz sandy beaches and hidden coves eke out their existence among the relentless waves that batter the ochre-coloured cliffs.

But turn your back to the drama of the Atlantic coastline and you will find a golden simplicity within the people and the landscape. Obvious signs of hard times and struggle make their mark amid the beauty, but the Spanish tradition of family, fiesta and fun seem firmly cemented into the Spanish Alltag (everyday).

One of our favourite places to visit when we are here, is the surfer's paradise at the Tangana Beach Bar on Valdevaqueros Beach, just a few minutes north of Tarifa. 

Whether you surf or just like to watch it (like we do) then you'll love spending the afternoon or the complete day hanging out with the cool folks. The beach is long, the waves are wild and the atmosphere is supremely chill.

All you need are your sunglasses, a beach towel and a very relaxed attitude - or better yet, no attitude at all. Everyone fits in and that's the beauty of hanging with really cool folks.

If you're more into off-the-beaten-path, less-people-the-better then spend your day north of Conil de la Frontera. This is your kind of heaven. We love, love, love these hidden sandy beaches and spend at least a couple of hours each day in one of these coves.

The series of calas (coves) nestled between Conil and the town of Roche are many and variable. Some are more hidden from view than others and therefore a favourite with naturists. But if naked people don't bother you then you can enjoy the sandy nook as much as they do. Cala del Frailecillo is the smallest cove beach, while Cala del Aceite is the most popular and closest to the Conil harbour.

I would recommend taking a day and trying the different coves out. They are conveniently located side by side, but keep your eyes open! Some beaches are barely noticeable except for the stairway. The red cliffs, azure sky and white-capped water will relax you the moment your feet hit the smoking-hot sand.

If you haven't rented a car then hanging out at the Playa Fontanillo, right in front of Conil, is an easy and not-so-terrible option. A seemingly never-ending beach in both directions with just sand is loved by early-morning joggers, families, actual Spanish people and of-course tourists. But there is so much room, no worries that you won't get your piece of sandy real-estate for the day.

When we hit this part of the world, we like to mix our days into beach, hiking, beach. I have to say, it's quite the lovely schedule.

North and south of Barbate, you will find hiking routes moving through forests of mushroom-topped Spanish pines, along Eucalyptus shrubs and Cistus rockroses with constant majestic views of Morocco across the way.

The thing I obsess about, after I get bored of the never-ending beautiful view, is the aroma along every hiking trail we take. The air smells as if someone is regularly spritzing it with a mixture of vaporub and savory herbs. Seriously, you'll either get hungry or feel healthier, or both. I grew up with a family who sucked on Eucalyptus candy as if it was manna from heaven - when hiking here that family is never far from mind.

The understory in much of southern Spain is laid with bushy, pungent Eucalyptus, Rosemary and Thyme, along with Almond and Olive trees, Holly Oaks and Spanish firs. Only the Tasmanian Blue Gum, also in the Eucalyptus family can tear my thoughts away from my old friends and vault them towards my brother. Does this tree not totally look like it's dressed in camo?

There are two wonderful hiking trails between Conil and Barbate which lead you to Torre del Tajo and Torre de Meca. These watchtowers, among a series puncturing the southern coast, were erected in the 16th century to protect Spain from Berber attacks.

Because of the coastline's proximity to the Strait of Gibraltar and it being just a stone's throw from the African continent, this entire area has quite the bloody past. One might just think that this is the reason for the earth's reddish hue.

On clear days, between April and September, the steep-cliffed trail leading from Barbate to Canos de Meca offers you perfect viewpoints to see Killer Whales hunting Tuna, and Dolphins just playing around - really what else do Dolphins do?

And after a busy day of beaching and hiking, the very best place to take in the setting sun is a sandy bar on the playa. A cervesa or sangria, along with a fishy snack is pretty much the rule of the day here - or if you want a fancier paella served on white linen then La Fontanilla on Conil's beach will not fail.

When we are here we spend a lot of time at the harbour, admiring the patient skill of the fishermen untangling their nets (a seemingly endless job), and engaging in great guy's favourite pasttime - staring at boats...all kinds of boats.

Across from the harbour, at the foot of the Rio Roche, is a port of a different kind - here the boats come to die. I find it an overwhelmingly sad sight, but one I can't seem to get enough of. There is a beauty in the neglected wood, broken bows and forgotten stories.

Whenever I see the man sitting under his umbrella beside the broken boat I could almost weep. What a place to spend your day. Each time I send a prayer upwards hoping that this is not where he lives.

Conil, a small white city down the coast from Cadiz and forty minutes from the nearest airport, Jerez de la Frontera, has a quaint simplicity. It's not a glamorous place, has its dilapidated and neglected corners, and possibly because of that is a very easy place to spend some time. The only stress you'll experience is adapting to siesta store hours....but shopping can wait till later, here it's always sun time.