budapest's curious train station.

There is a tall door, a tall green door to be exact, in Budapest's western train station. Every day hundreds of people walk past it, but only a very special few ever get to go inside. It leads to a very special room, one could even go far as calling it a secret room. For, only a few know that it even exists. With the Latin, 'Viribus Unitis' (meaning, with forces united) inscribed in marble above the door, the man for whom this secret room was built, wanted, at the very least, his life's motto to be visible for all.

Budapest's Nyugati Railway Station anchors the Grand Boulevard, a wide thoroughfare surrounded by fabulous buildings and impressive architectural design.

The station itself was built by the Eiffel Company in 1877, twelve years before it would become an iconic name,due to the construction of an inconspicuous little tower in the heart of Paris.

The building is an interesting, generous mix of brick, glass and steel. While the main train hall is run-down and shabby now, it still bears clear signs of who and what is was built for. But noone, including yours truly, could imagine the opolence that still lies behind these walls.

The station was namely, built for royalty. The King and Queen of Hungary, the Emperor pair of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, Habsburg royalty, Franz Joseph and Sissi. Sissi, Empress Elizabeth loved Budapest and traveled here frequently, spending many months at a time in Hungary, abandoning her responsibilities in Vienna.

Behind the green door, which is firmly locked most of the time, is a room built specifically for Sissi. It was her lounge upon arrival, and where she would wait and relax before her journey would take away again from this beloved country of hers. It is the Royal Waiting Room. She might even have endured heartwrenching goodbyes in this room, when leaving her rumoured lover, Count Gyula Andrássy. Now, this room is used sparingly, for special gatherings, and is not open to the public.

Source: mavnosztalgia.hu

Along with its secret room, the Nyugati Station also houses what is widely known to be the world's most elegant McDonalds. It really is a beautiful location to eat a Big Mac.

I have visited Budapest twice now, and will be back again in a month. It is a city with a fascinating history, and telltale signs of former grandeur, making me constantly wish that buildings could tell stories...like stories I can actually hear.

On the grounds of the Buda Castle, high above the Danube River, I found not just the perfect place for a coffee, but a view unlike any other. I like the rough edges of Budapest - it doesn't have the fresh-painted shine of cities, such as Prague, where you can smell the money that has been thrown at it in recent decades.

One can feel the turbulence, see the resilience, and sense the relief of peace, within the grooves and cracks, along the faded facades, and among the tarnished structures. For me this defines beauty.

And speaking of beautiful, the bath houses in Budapest are a sight to behold, and the perfect place to plunge. As I had limited time on my last visit, I only made it to the Széchenyi Bath. Every facet from the outside window coverings, the sculptures standing as greeting, to the inside entrance hall...and the glorious pools. I was taken in by every gorgeous chunk.

I local told me recently that an even better option to bathe in, is the Lukács Bath, which is less crowded and half the price. Really, what is needed is the time to just go to all of them. Did you know that Budapest has more natural thermal springs than any other capital city in the world (according to budapest.com)? There are a 118 springs providing 70 million litres of water a day, with temperatures between 21 and 78 degrees Celsius!

There are many beguiling corners to visit. One neighbourhood that shouldn't be missed is the Jewish Quarter, where free walking tours take you through the Gozsdu Courtyard, a series of connected arcades and past the 2nd largest synagogue in the world.

I opted to take a coffee break at the New York Café because I was told that it's the Most Beautiful Café in the World - so, how could I not go and see what it looks like? 'Ornate', would be one word to use to describe it, 'tourist-filled' is another word. But, that shouldn't take away from the fact that it is a stunning café, where you can absolutely enjoy a real good, really expensive cup 'o joe. Trivia: The café was built in 1894 and was actually a hub of Hungarian literature and poetry, where the creative types gathered to exchange and write and discuss. The luxurious bits came much later.

One of the locations which I get to call 'my office' when I'm in Budapest, is the Pesti Vigadó, a concert hall whose name translates into 'a place of merriment'. This building, which lies on the eastern banks of the Danube River, in my experience, breathes energy into its visitors...it just has something.

Maybe it's because it was originally built in 1833 to house public balls and large, happy folk festivals, or maybe it's because its walls have heard the likes of  Johann Strauss, Richard Strauss and Ferenc Liszt perform. But, it also has a dark past, as so many beautiful buildlings do. Destroyed by numerous wars, its most recent reincarnation came just two years ago.

Also lying on the shores of the Danube, are the spectacular, gothic revival, Hungarian Parliament buildings. Looking like part catherdral, part iceberg, and all parts amazing, it is called, 'The House of the Country' in Hungarian - this I find incredibly endearing. It brings to mind a different white house which should possibly reinvent itself with a name change like this.

Directly at the parliament, is the most profound, gut-wrenching monument I have experienced up to now. It depicts the murder of Jewish men, women and children in 1944 by Hungarian fascist militiamen. The victims were ordered to take off their shoes before they were shot. They fell into the river and were carried away by the current. It is unspeakable, unthinkable, to imagine the horror these people experienced. A row of many, many scattered shoes, cast in bronze, lay abandoned - a baby shoe which someone has placed a tealight inside, a dried-out rose which lies beside a ruined woman's pump in bronze.

 
Since 1989, as the east was opened up to the west, not all roads have been easy...for Hungarians this is no exception. There are many complicated and complex issues which are difficult for all the European countries to negotiate. But, the people who I have dealings with in Budapest, the places and experiences which I have visited and heard about, politics aside, have left me with a feelling that I want to continue to visit this stunning city, and I encourage everyone else who has the opportunity to do so also.

I can't write about Budapest and not mention its most popular landmark, and rightfully so, the Chain Bridge.

On my last trip, I had the incredible good fortune to find myself standing all alone in the middle of the bridge - which was closed to traffic due to a sporting event taking place on the Buda side. It was seriously cool. How many times do you get to have a Unesco World Heritage Site all to yourself?

There are very many reasons to visit Budapest, and it being one of my new favourite cities, is surely the most important reason! I doubt that Budapest will disappoint. So, go to Prague sure, but don't miss out on Budapest.

It will impress the socks off ya!

The Most Beautiful Chateau Award goes to...

Chateau Chenonceau in the Loire Valley, France.

This is a castle with stories to tell. It was essentially built by six women over the past 500 years, each one leaving an indelible mark through her design, expansion, landscaping or scandal.

It is a feminine building inside and out...not built to display power or might, but a home to live in and enjoy. You feel this as you walk through its rooms...I would move in immediately, given the choice.

An hour outside of Tours, which is a short 1.5 hour train ride south-west of Paris, you will need a car or bike to get here. But, the trip is worth every km. 

The River Cher runs through the chateau, giving you waterfront views out of every window. The keep in the front yard of the chateau is the only original structure left from the 6th century when Thomas Bohier and Katherine Briconnet built Chenonceau on top of the remains of a fortified castle and mill.

Years later, after investing decades in building the chateau, it was turned over to the State. Wanting to impress his mistress, King Henri II gave Chenonceau to Diane de Poitiers, a woman 20 years his senior, who he had a life-long obsession with...much to his wife's non-amusement.

Diane de Portier threw herself into developing the intricate gardens, creating expansive vegetable and fruit plantations, and developing the chateau into a well-functioning property.

But, the story goes that she pretty much kept to herself, consuming her time with gardening and personal grooming. She was beautiful, a slave to her looks, and spent much energy in keeping herself looking perfectly young. Cold showers to invigorate the skin, only the best home-grown food to eat, and botanical potions and lotions to heal and relax her insides and out.

In 1559, when King Henri II died unexpectedly from a splinter to the eye, his wife, Catherine de Medici immediately took Chenonceau away from Diane de Poitiers, relocating her to another chateau farther away. Catherine, a politically and socially minded woman of her time, filled the house with life, throwing grand parties and magnificent balls. The gallery above, was christened with opulent festivities in 1577 honouring her son, King Henri III.

From the Green Room, her study, she ruled France for nearly 30 years as Regent, after the death of her husband. It's a gorgeous room, small and octagonal. From her desk in the middle of the room, she would have been able to look out onto the gardens and river from windows on every side of her.

Walking through the chateau, I was drawn to the many original pieces of artwork still hanging on the walls, or painted on the ceilings. Intricate tapestries by Flemish masters cover entire walls, along with renaissance murals and paintings by the likes of Tintoretto, Jordaens or Rubens.

The above tapestry, "The Cher" by Neuilly (1883) was commissioned specifically for Chenonceau, details the galleried bridge over the river, along with the north-east corner's intricate chapel. I just love the texture and richness of historic tapestries.

Walking down the stone staircase towards the kitchens, I had a 'Downtown Abbey' moment. One can feel the energy, the work, and the living that went on in these rooms to run a chateau of this size. They are beautiful..and beautifully decorated.

The kitchens are built into the huge river pillars that the galleried rooms above rest upon. The large hooks for hanging meat are still displayed, along with gorgeous rows of copper cookery. My first thought was, do you know how expensive those are?!

In one of the rooms stands a long table where the chateau staff ate their meals. Windows looking out onto the water breathe fresh air and natural light into this, otherwise, basement area. I'm not sure what happened in the kitchen during the many times the River Cher flooded.

From a small wooden bridge joining the largest kitchen room with the room of stoves, a pulley system is still visible from which vegetables and fruit were pulled up from boats docking beside the kitchen. Food was delivered from other towns along the river and easily lifted into the kitchen, without disturbing the rest of the house.

The staircase leading to the second floor was one of the first straight staircases built in France. As with so many details in the chateau, this is another impressive Italian mark left by Catherine de Medici. She missed Italy and surrounded herself with signs of home. I can relate...Canadian Flag anyone? I have like 25 now, here in Germany. When I lived in Canada I didn't own a single one.

The vaulted ceiling above the staircase is made up of intersecting ribs, showcasing the centrepiece -  an ancient medallion depicting a lady with flowing curls.

The smaller garden on the north-west side of the chateau, was built and designed by Catherine. I preferred this one to the other because of its more intimate design, surrounded by water on one side, the chateau on the other side, and on the remaining two sides by large, lush trees. The obligatory selfie...no apologies.

The garden is filled with "Clair Matin" roses (my new favourite), standard roses, box hedges, a circular pond in the centre, and rows and rows of low-cut lavender. It is heavenly scented!

Catherine de Medici's bedroom still contains her incredible Renaissance four-poster bed, which stands in the centre of the room. Walking through all of the rooms gives you a feeling of being in an art gallery, and this room is no exception. The highlight for me, was the Correggio, "The Education of Love", painted on wood, hanging on the wall next to her bed.

The last king of the Old Regime (Ancien Régime) to visit Chenonceau was Louis the XIV in 1650. This room commemorates that visit and displays, among other prominent works, an original Rubens, "The Child Jesus and Saint John the Baptist", bought from Joseph Bonaporte, Napoleon's brother.

During Catherine's time of power, France was embroiled in the Huguenots War, a bloody and turbulent time. After her death in January 1589, the widow of King Henri III (Catherine's fourth son, who was killed by a monk the following August), Louise of Lorraine sought comfort and solace at Chenonceau, surrounding herself with the colours and symbols of mourning. Walking into her bedroom is like entering a dark basement...the only sad place on the property.

Spending time at Chateau Chenonceau was a true highlight for me. Wandering through the rooms, inhaling the stories and passions that so many interesting women lived before me, was a treat. And outside, the various rose gardens, the Orangerie, the maze, and 16th century farm which still supplies all of the interior floral decoration of the chateau, can be strolled through and appreciated by their many visitors. I was definitely one of those...and I'll be back!

The Loire Valley is the perfect girls' trip destination.